What year and model is your truck? 5 lug or 7 lug?

 

 

You should stick with 5 lug rims.

 

Year and model of the truck, please? We can't see it through the Internet.

 

Sorry, but this is a question that the people selling wheels should be able to answer in their sleep.

YOU
I want 24s for my '97 F150.

THEM
You will need 5x150 bolt pattern, how wide do you want to go?

(I made up the part about 5x150, but it means 5 bolts on a 150mm circle.)

You need to know how wide of a tire you want because this will define, sorta, the width of the rim you get. The tire store should know all of this, if they don't then go to another tire store. If you have a wheel package from a magazine, then take the picture with you. They might be able to match price and save you the trouble of ****ing around with getting stuff delivered to your work, or whatever. Maybe they can't match that exact wheel, but they have catalogs that will have a very similar wheel, and this brings the issue back to price.

 

If you put 35s on your truck with the stock gearing, you will have a dog that won't be able to get out of its own way. You need to know what the diameter of the tires that you have is, this tire size is chosen by the engineers to work well with the gearing they selected. If you get tires that are larger than the stock fitment, then the result will be that the taller tires will adversely affect the gearing, you will notice this the most at highway speeds.

Two things happen, the speedometer calibration changes, and the gearing in the differential might not be set properly. If you plan it right the calibration can be made almost perfect. TODAY, when your speedo reports 70, your actual speed might only be 65. If your tire choice is good, then the speedo will read 70 and your GPS will confirm that 70 is the actual speed. If your tire choice is too large, then 70 displayed on the speedo might really be 75, the problems associated with this should be obvious.

Since the tires are being driven slower to go the same speed, then the engine's torque and horsepower curves are also changed, you might notice that the truck cannot go uphill on the freeway anymore, or that mashing the gas to get around the cement truck isn't as exciting as it used to be. Gearing will be a bigger issue the more you go above the diameter of the original tire package.

My F150 is fitted with a 235/65x17, this works out to a diameter of 29.078 inches. My tires are oversized from the factory tire package. Your tires will have the same kind of number, although not likely the same. In my example, 235 is the tread width, 65% of the width is the sidewall height, and 17 is the rim diameter. 235 x .65 = 152.75. There are two sidewalls, one at 6 and one at 12, so double this to 305.5. This number is millimeters, so divide by 25.4 to turn it into inches, which gives you 12.027 inches. Add this to the rim, 12.027 + 17 = 29.027. You can work these numbers with the actual numbers on your tires. If I moved to a 35 from this package, it would be a 20% increase (35 - 29 = 6, 6 is 20% of 29, so 35 is 20% greater than 29. This should kill your gearing. If you have a manual transmission, you can use 4th instead of 5th, but your automatic ought to complain about this plan.

All of this is what the tire store is supposed to tell you.

 

5 x 135mm with a + 8-12mm offset dpending on application lifted or lowered. I believe
the bolt size is 12 mm by 1.5 TPI

 

Bolt size depends on year, that's why I keep asking that question.