charging systemfailure
#1
#4
#5
#7
Trending Topics
#10
Very first thing; is the charge light on the dash?
If yes there is a charge circuit failure, If no there is a drain.
Normally with the engine running and battery up to full charge you should se very close to 14 volts, no less.
After cranking you should see close to 15 volts for a short time that falls back to 14 as the battery take its charge.
How long it takes to drain down at a point the engine cranks slow is some what of an indicator.
You have to observe these thing if your going to solve the issue.
As of the moment it all guessing that isn't worth a Hoot.
Testing and observing is the only way.
You already spent money on un needed parts by guessing.
Good luck.
If yes there is a charge circuit failure, If no there is a drain.
Normally with the engine running and battery up to full charge you should se very close to 14 volts, no less.
After cranking you should see close to 15 volts for a short time that falls back to 14 as the battery take its charge.
How long it takes to drain down at a point the engine cranks slow is some what of an indicator.
You have to observe these thing if your going to solve the issue.
As of the moment it all guessing that isn't worth a Hoot.
Testing and observing is the only way.
You already spent money on un needed parts by guessing.
Good luck.
#12
#13
We needed to define the issue first.
NO the fuse won't be open for 'drain'.
Current doesn't jump through the air.
The charge light is telling you the alternator is not outputting, fuse or no fuse open or good.
A fast drain like you indicate is coming from the Alternator through the megafuse.
It is either the diode stack or the regulator has not turned the field winding off.
How to test
On a fully charged battery, remove the heavy lead at the Alternator "in a safe manner" because it's hooked to a charged battery on the other end. And not short the end to metal around the area.
Re touch the lead connector to the Alternator terminal monumentally.
Doers it spark noticeable?
If yes the alternator is the problem drain. It has to be open circuited when not being driven by the motor.
Note: the dash charge lamp is powered through a fuse and ignition switch in the on position so we know that circuit is good.
Any other cause of a drain that 'high'[ normally would blow its much smaller fuse.
So anything is possible until you find the cause.
Also an Alternator that feels warm long after the motor has cooled is suspect for the same reason as above..
Good luck.
NO the fuse won't be open for 'drain'.
Current doesn't jump through the air.
The charge light is telling you the alternator is not outputting, fuse or no fuse open or good.
A fast drain like you indicate is coming from the Alternator through the megafuse.
It is either the diode stack or the regulator has not turned the field winding off.
How to test
On a fully charged battery, remove the heavy lead at the Alternator "in a safe manner" because it's hooked to a charged battery on the other end. And not short the end to metal around the area.
Re touch the lead connector to the Alternator terminal monumentally.
Doers it spark noticeable?
If yes the alternator is the problem drain. It has to be open circuited when not being driven by the motor.
Note: the dash charge lamp is powered through a fuse and ignition switch in the on position so we know that circuit is good.
Any other cause of a drain that 'high'[ normally would blow its much smaller fuse.
So anything is possible until you find the cause.
Also an Alternator that feels warm long after the motor has cooled is suspect for the same reason as above..
Good luck.
Last edited by Bluegrass; 12-04-2017 at 11:02 PM.