1997 - 2003 F-150

Front end rebuild time - question

Old Oct 29, 2015 | 07:13 PM
  #16  
ZelphtheGreat's Avatar
Member
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
What tools are needed to replace the ball joints? My 2003 SuperCrew Cab 4x4 can't be aligned as the lower ball joints are too warn and the right outer tie rod is also. Can't see forking out $900+ to get it done by the shop if I can do it myself.
Have done all kinds of mechanical work through the years but not much front end work. What to watch for? What 'extra' to have on hand when and if I tackle this?
 
Reply
Old Oct 29, 2015 | 07:29 PM
  #17  
2008_XL's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,121
Likes: 4
From: Burlington, VT
Originally Posted by ZelphtheGreat
What tools are needed to replace the ball joints? My 2003 SuperCrew Cab 4x4 can't be aligned as the lower ball joints are too warn and the right outer tie rod is also. Can't see forking out $900+ to get it done by the shop if I can do it myself.
Have done all kinds of mechanical work through the years but not much front end work. What to watch for? What 'extra' to have on hand when and if I tackle this?
You'll need a ball joint press for the lower bj's. Most parts stores will loan them to you for a deposit.

They're not hard to do.

As far as the outer tierod, break it free from the inner tierod before removing from the steering knuckle, otherwise it's really tough to get off and you don't get much leverage.

Check everything else thoroughly before doing the work so you don't have to dive back in later.

Check inner and outer tierods, upper and lower ball joints, sway bar end links, shocks etc.

You will need to get an alignment after you do the work.
 
Reply
Old Oct 29, 2015 | 09:39 PM
  #18  
pizzaman711's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 5,534
Likes: 0
From: Mechanicsville, VA
I agree with everything 2008 said. In my experience, lowers can either be really simple or can be seized in place meaning they'll require the use of a torch to get them out. If you aren't up to the task, I'd find a different shop as 900+ just for lowers and a tie rod is crazy. I had all 4 ball joints and both tie rod ends replaced on my old truck by a local mom and pop shop and I spent right around $400 for moog parts and labor.
 
Reply
Old Oct 30, 2015 | 04:03 PM
  #19  
Roadie's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,994
Likes: 221
From: Wilmington,NC
To get the tie rod ends loose, a pickle fork or puller is helpful. Your local auto parts store should have these for loan. After removing the snap ring from the top of the lower ball joints, you have to knock them out. There are plenty of videos on the web that you should review and then you will know exactly what to do.
 
Reply
Old Oct 30, 2015 | 11:52 PM
  #20  
ZelphtheGreat's Avatar
Member
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
I'll check out the videos. Rural North Dakota so will have to see if I can find where I would get the ball joint press on loan.
I took the truck to a good shop for an alignment and the guy told me what was needed at this time before it could be done. I'm going on his list.
 
Reply
Old Oct 31, 2015 | 06:03 PM
  #21  
Roadie's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,994
Likes: 221
From: Wilmington,NC
there is at least one video on the web showing a guy installing lower ball joints by putting a jack underneath it and beating a lot on the arm. Personally, I wouldn't want to beat on mine that much. But, it can be done. I like to buy tools anyway and I bought my own press from Tool Topia and the adapters needed for my 02 F150. Spray some penetration oil on the ball joint before you knock out the old one. It helps. Use Liquid Wrench or your favorite penetrating oil. WD 40 is not a penetrating oil.
 
Reply
Old Nov 1, 2015 | 09:40 PM
  #22  
02xltscab's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
2WD was easy

Mine was pretty easy compared to what I've seen in the vids for 4WD.

I sprayed my lowers with PB Blaster and wire brushed all of the rust and dirt off before pressing them out. Helps to keep from scoring the holes in the arms. I also found it easier to press them out after a couple of good raps with a small sledge to break them loose.

Maybe I missed it in the earlier replies, but check you idler arm as well. Mine moved up and down several inches, so it was part of the job too.

I picked up a ball joint separator from Harbor Freight to break most of the tie rod and ball joints loose. Also worked great on the idler arm. Only had to resort to the pickle fork on one of them.
 
Reply


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:06 AM.