Have the rubber torn on the lower Right ball joint. What is involved in replacing it? Can a shade tree mechanic do it OK or do I need to get to a full time shop?

 

It can be done with minimal skill, but banging them in and out requires a large hammer and just the right size socket/pipe or a press. A fairly large socket (34mm?) is also required to remove the CV Shaft nut. I don't know if it can be done without an impact. I only have experience with 4x4, so if you have coil springs up front, this info may be useless.

 

I'm sure the previous gen is similar to mine as far as changing lower ball joints. They are easy, but you need a ball joint press. They can be done without an impact gun, but you'll need a breaker bar or a large metal pipe for leverage.

 

It is a 2003 F150 XLT super crew cab - 4 wheel drive.


I have access to the tools, just wasn't sure about how much was involved.


Any particular parts places more reliable than another? Am used to VW diesel pickups from a lot of rabbit diesel years - the Ford is new to me.

 

Go with moog problem solver ball joints. They're graeseable and need to be greased every oil change.

Auto zone will loan out a ball joint press with a deposit.

 

Please always post the vehicle year and model when you ask questions. If you have a 97-03 F150 or Expy 4x4, watch this video. It may apply to yours whatever it is. This video removes the lower ball joint. Episode 2 installs it. Autozone has the press for free rental.

 

That guy made things much harder than they need to be. I did not unbolt the CV from the differential, loosen tortion bar, or disconnect the tie rod. Way easier to just unbolt the upper control arm and let the whole thing swing out of the way. Upper ball joints are cheap and come with the control arm, so you may just as well replace them too. Just make sure to mark the upper eccentric bolts or get an alignment after. If you're replacing ball joints, you prolly need an alignment anyway.

 

Doing it your way, wouldn't you risk damaging the CV joints or pulling them apart?

 

No. You still unbolt the hub side and remove the splined end and just let it sit there.

 

What he said. No need to pull the LCA or CV shafts. It's just grunt work, nothing too difficult about it. I put in new upper CAs with the new ball joint already installed, replaced the pitman arm, idler arm, tie rods, and lower ball joints. While you are in there- just do it all at one time. One alignment and you are good for at least the next 100K miles. Keep everything greased properly and it'll likely outlast the truck.