1997 - 2003 F-150

Debating: replace engine, or sell truck...

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #31  
Old 03-10-2015, 08:11 AM
Blue150's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Mesquite
Posts: 2,077
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by ishootstuff
I'm no 4.2 expert, but yes, generally all that stuff can be swapped over.

I have replaced the rod and crank bearings in the V10 in my F150 while the engine was in the truck.

The reason I had to do so was because I dented the oil pan and ran the engine with no oil pressure thinking it was an unplugged sensor since I had just replaced the transmission.
Ouch. That had to be one of those kick yourself moments. I have those all the time unfortunately.
 
  #32  
Old 03-10-2015, 08:39 AM
ishootstuff's Avatar
Technical Article Contributor

Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 928
Received 9 Likes on 7 Posts
Originally Posted by Blue150
Ouch. That had to be one of those kick yourself moments. I have those all the time unfortunately.
Indeed it was... Still feel stupid. However, if Ford would have simply put those bumps in the oil pickup, or have it pull from the side like every other engine I have worked on, there wouldn't have been an issue.
 
  #33  
Old 03-10-2015, 08:46 AM
Blue150's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Mesquite
Posts: 2,077
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by ishootstuff
Indeed it was... Still feel stupid. However, if Ford would have simply put those bumps in the oil pickup, or have it pull from the side like every other engine I have worked on, there wouldn't have been an issue.
Agreed. Sadly, those bumps and side intakes probably made that part vendor the lowest bidder so they got the contract. Money talks.
 
  #34  
Old 03-16-2015, 12:38 PM
metal13x's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Engine is out. Wasn't too bad to pull. Hardest part was separating the engine from the transmission.

Some tips for separating the engine from transmission: be patient. Spray some penetrating oil around the mating surfaces, especially around dowel locator pins. Also use screw drivers and various pry bars to work it loose. I had engine hoist hooked up to engine and a jack under trans. It took some careful wrestling, but eventually popped loose. Really helps to have another person to assist. One person can pry around while the other wiggles engine around carefully with the engine hoist.

Will update when i drop pan. Can add pictures when i get the chance.
 
  #35  
Old 03-16-2015, 01:02 PM
Blue150's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Mesquite
Posts: 2,077
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Excellent. Glad to hear it is going well. Looking forward to the pics.
 
  #36  
Old 03-16-2015, 08:23 PM
metal13x's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Came across an ad on craigslist for a used 4.2l with low miles. Its a great deal but i have no idea if it will work because it is out of a 2005 econoline.

Other than the manifolds and accessories, Does anyone have any idea if a 2005 block would even work in my 1997? Help!
 
  #37  
Old 03-16-2015, 08:26 PM
Roadie's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Wilmington,NC
Posts: 5,994
Received 220 Likes on 200 Posts
Originally Posted by metal13x
Came across an ad on craigslist for a used 4.2l with low miles. Its a great deal but i have no idea if it will work because it is out of a 2005 econoline.

Other than the manifolds and accessories, Does anyone have any idea if a 2005 block would even work in my 1997? Help!
Salvage yards used to have books that would tell them what would interchange. Don't know if that is still the case.
 
  #38  
Old 03-17-2015, 12:19 AM
Patman's Avatar
Global Moderator &
Senior Member



Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: DFW
Posts: 21,312
Received 134 Likes on 112 Posts
only difference I can think of off the top of my head, would be intake manifold. besides having an electronic throttle body on the 05. Your 97 uses two coolant temp sensors (one for PCM and one for cluster)

I don't see why it wouldnt work.
 
  #39  
Old 04-23-2015, 11:56 PM
metal13x's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Success

Out with the old, in with the new old. Found a 4.2l engine out of a 2000 Ford E-150 Van with 130k miles, bought for $629.

'97 F150 4.2l Out of truck:



'00 E150 4.2L Out of Truck:




A few details: I swapped over my old sensors since the donor engine had different ones. The knock sensor was completely different - The '97 F150 knock sensor is located in the passenger side of the engine block, while the '00 E150 knock sensor is located in the rear of the driver side cylinder head (w/completely different connectors). Here is a picture of the '97 F150 knock sensor:



The oil pan on the '00 is a little different, but fits in the truck just fine with no issues. Also the harmonic balancer set up is different. My old '97 has a separate balancer and pulley (like most older vehicles), while the '00 has a one piece design where the pulley and balancer are one complete part. The depth of the pulley was the same. In other words, the serpentine belt lined up the same, so I kept it as is.

The exhaust manifolds were different parts, but both seemed to line up the same. I ended up using my old ones off my '97 since they were in good shape.




If anybody has any questions, feel free to ask. There are a lot of details, I just can't remember them all at the moment.
 
  #40  
Old 04-24-2015, 02:21 PM
Roadie's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Wilmington,NC
Posts: 5,994
Received 220 Likes on 200 Posts
Congratulations on your decisions and good work. Let us know how it turns out.
 



Quick Reply: Debating: replace engine, or sell truck...



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:56 PM.