Cruise control disengageing
The recall fix was just a fused harness - maybe the switch itself is starting to go?
Is it possible the brake light switch is out of whack and the brake lights are intermittently coming on?
Is it possible the brake light switch is out of whack and the brake lights are intermittently coming on?
Last edited by glc; Nov 14, 2014 at 07:53 PM.
Check your wires under the dash for the brake light switch. I
f you have one that is chaffed it could cause the brake lights to operate without moving the pedal, this could trip the cruise.
That is just a guess on my part, but it is the kind of weird stuff that happens to me!
Good luck
f you have one that is chaffed it could cause the brake lights to operate without moving the pedal, this could trip the cruise.
That is just a guess on my part, but it is the kind of weird stuff that happens to me!
Good luck
Did you check the fused harness for continuity? If you bought the new improved switch, you can remove the harness and do a direct connect.
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No. I reinstalled the old sensor and Inspected the break switch. On the way home at 70 mph i was cruising again. it's been working in the AM (40 degrees) and not working in the afternoon( 70 Degrees). If it fritzes again, will check that recall harness. So I can remove that old recall harness and use the new 2 pin connector and switch?
Here is some background info that may help.
.
The MC switch is set to open on very light pressure from the master cylinder.
If it becomes faulty, a rise in fluid pressure due to engine bay heat could cause the switch to open preventing CC from operating.
The way to test this is to put a jumper across the switch leads to provide a solid shunt for testing.
If the CC now works any time without failure the switch is at fault.
Only replace with a Ford part not after market.
Do not do extended driving with a shunt in place because you have only one knock-off from the brake pedal switch instead of two for safety reasons.
Good luck.
.
The MC switch is set to open on very light pressure from the master cylinder.
If it becomes faulty, a rise in fluid pressure due to engine bay heat could cause the switch to open preventing CC from operating.
The way to test this is to put a jumper across the switch leads to provide a solid shunt for testing.
If the CC now works any time without failure the switch is at fault.
Only replace with a Ford part not after market.
Do not do extended driving with a shunt in place because you have only one knock-off from the brake pedal switch instead of two for safety reasons.
Good luck.
I don't know if would apply here or not. (my 2004)-08 f150 Cruise control stop working because my front side marker bulbs were bad. I check everything! Called the dealer, and he said, have any bad bulbs? He was right, replaced the 2 # 194 bulbs in the front and the Cruise control is now working. go figure??
It couldn't hurt to unplug the electrical connector from the cruise servo and check on the inside for any burn marks where the connections are made. My servo was out and it was obvious that was the problem when I saw the burn marks.
ok, I'm back. It's been a while. I replaced the sensor on the Master cylinder and CC work for about 2 weeks. Then back to the same, Worked off and on in the AM, did not work on the way home at 5pm. then in the morning it would disengage and not work at all. I removed the Recall harness w/fuse and plunged directly, (no-go). Should I reconnect the recall harness w fuse and replace the Break switch on the break pedal ?
Be sure you use a Ford pressure switch.
Other aftermarkets don't work.
Reason is they are too sensitive and open their contacts when the brake fluid pressure rises a small amount from engine bay heat.
I think your noticing the way the heat is affecting it.
I've' been there already.
Good luck.
Other aftermarkets don't work.
Reason is they are too sensitive and open their contacts when the brake fluid pressure rises a small amount from engine bay heat.
I think your noticing the way the heat is affecting it.
I've' been there already.
Good luck.






