99 F150 Efan upgrade
99 F150 Efan upgrade
So my stock fan just fell apart after 306,000 miles and i think im just gonna go ahead and do an efan upgrade. ive seen alot of people are using stock efans from various cars so my question is which car would be best to get one out of? I do haul junk cars around quite often and i make trips to NC and WV every year but dont do any towing in the mountains. Also what controller should i get?
So my stock fan just fell apart after 306,000 miles and i think im just gonna go ahead and do an efan upgrade. ive seen alot of people are using stock efans from various cars so my question is which car would be best to get one out of? I do haul junk cars around quite often and i make trips to NC and WV every year but dont do any towing in the mountains. Also what controller should i get?
All you need to know: https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...150-4-2-a.html
good luck
MGD
Thx bud now that you linked that i remember reading that a couple years ago....but im afraid that one may be over kill for me....i keep seeing that that one is a power hog :/ any other less power hungry suggestions?
I have been using the dual fan setup from a Nissan Maxima for many years now. I know people will give me crap for this next statement, but I also don't use a controller. I just have them set up on a relay that turns the fans on when the key is on. My truck is V10 swapped and I do get hot when hauling my dirt bikes uphill at slow speeds in 100+ temps, but in everyday traffic and normal towing, I never have any issues. When I had the 5.4, I didn't have any issues with this setup. The best part about them is the price. $60 shipped for NEW units.
EBAY FAN LINK
EBAY FAN LINK
ok thx bud ill look in to those also...does it cover the whole radiator? any opinons on the dual fan out of 2011 plus f150? i can get on from a 2012 in the local junk yard cheap but they wont lett me get out and see if its gonna fit :/ if i take it out i have buy it
Do NOT run efans without a controller. Do NOT use a simple relay switching arrangement. You ideally want to use a constant temperature, soft-start, variable-speed controller. As noted in my first reply.
And - you want to use efans that can actually move the required massive volume of air - which purty much keeps all of the garbage no-name cheap-ayss Fleabay fans off the table.
Do it right - don't skimp on costs, component quality, wiring-best-practices, or reliability .... OR, don't do it at all.
MGD out.
I have been using the dual fan setup from a Nissan Maxima for many years now. I know people will give me crap for this next statement, but I also don't use a controller. I just have them set up on a relay that turns the fans on when the key is on. My truck is V10 swapped and I do get hot when hauling my dirt bikes uphill at slow speeds in 100+ temps, but in everyday traffic and normal towing, I never have any issues. When I had the 5.4, I didn't have any issues with this setup. The best part about them is the price. $60 shipped for NEW units.
EBAY FAN LINK
EBAY FAN LINK
Trending Topics
I have the flex-alite 270 kit and it does a great job. While you are at it you can get the dual core radiator from summit for about 150.00. Just MHO. No fabrication required but a little wiring experience required.
I have removed more flex-alite fans on fords and thru them in the trash. They are the biggest waste of money I have ever seen! Nothing beats oe, style electric fans period! The blades have a great pitch to them so the electric motors are not working so hard that it kills your alternator. Plus the oe, fans pull so much cfm, at such a low rpm.
Last edited by 06streetboss; Sep 29, 2014 at 10:50 PM.
Bump. So it has been confirmed that with a little modifying the 2010+ electric fans will bolt up to a 97-03 radiator? Anyone have pics of the modifications? I seen a post where a guy made a bracket for 1 of the mounting tabs on the drivers side,but it was for a 2007.
Choose yer controller carefully. They draw enormous current - as any truly capable efan system will.
http://www.dccontrol.com/ - FK-series.
http://www.dccontrol.com/constant_te...ontrollers.htm
MGD
It'll fit - needs some fab work of course.
Choose yer controller carefully. They draw enormous current - as any truly capable efan system will.
http://www.dccontrol.com/ - FK-series.
http://www.dccontrol.com/constant_te...ontrollers.htm
MGD
Choose yer controller carefully. They draw enormous current - as any truly capable efan system will.
http://www.dccontrol.com/ - FK-series.
http://www.dccontrol.com/constant_te...ontrollers.htm
MGD
I planned on using the F5 dual fan controller. I seen a few posts of people using it on ebay fans,flex a lite fans and a couple on the 2010+ f150 fans. I will give them a call,but i read somewhere that the 2010+ f150 fans can pull up to 120 amps on startup under load. Where as the F5 controller is only good for 35amps per side. Are the oem f150 fans variable/dual speed? Also any other plugs out there that i can use to plug up to them except for the $50 ford specific plugs?(i will be soldering everything)
http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcat/30140
I planned on using the F5 dual fan controller. I seen a few posts of people using it on ebay fans,flex a lite fans and a couple on the 2010+ f150 fans. I will give them a call,but i read somewhere that the 2010+ f150 fans can pull up to 120 amps on startup under load. Where as the F5 controller is only good for 35amps per side. Are the oem f150 fans variable/dual speed? Also any other plugs out there that i can use to plug up to them except for the $50 ford specific plugs?(i will be soldering everything)
I planned on using the F5 dual fan controller. I seen a few posts of people using it on ebay fans,flex a lite fans and a couple on the 2010+ f150 fans. I will give them a call,but i read somewhere that the 2010+ f150 fans can pull up to 120 amps on startup under load. Where as the F5 controller is only good for 35amps per side. Are the oem f150 fans variable/dual speed? Also any other plugs out there that i can use to plug up to them except for the $50 ford specific plugs?(i will be soldering everything)
RF-269 specs ( 2010 OEM): https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...ml#post4629749
F5 , like DCC FK's, are soft-start, variable speed controllers - so it will work - here's an install thread: https://www.f150online.com/forums/ot...-pics-vid.html
Flex-a-lite's and generic fleabay fans are overrated junk - avoid them. Not even close to being in the same league as an RF-269.
More reading:
https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...150-4-2-a.html
https://www.f150online.com/forums/ex...than-fans.html
good luck
MGD
Just to get another nose in here on this, you are trying to backyard engineer a critical function.
The fan and control system has to cool the motor, cool the A/C if you have it, cool the trans cooler, light the lights, charge the battery and be reliable.
That means you have to understand what your doing.
The factory has years to test, you have real time only and live with the results.
For example, if the fan draws 120 amps at anytime, that is 120 x 13 volts or at least 1560 watts of power from either the battery and or alternator.
The question becomes is the alternator up to this kind of current on a more continuous basis? Is the battery capacity big enough.
Is the wiring and connectors heavy enough, is the workmanship up to the task.
If not, breakdowns and fuse blowing, wire burning etc will find out sooner or later.
You don't get back all that much power for all the hassle and expense.
It's not free power.
My opinion is if your not up to this, replace your stock fan and let the rest go.
Good luck.
The fan and control system has to cool the motor, cool the A/C if you have it, cool the trans cooler, light the lights, charge the battery and be reliable.
That means you have to understand what your doing.
The factory has years to test, you have real time only and live with the results.
For example, if the fan draws 120 amps at anytime, that is 120 x 13 volts or at least 1560 watts of power from either the battery and or alternator.
The question becomes is the alternator up to this kind of current on a more continuous basis? Is the battery capacity big enough.
Is the wiring and connectors heavy enough, is the workmanship up to the task.
If not, breakdowns and fuse blowing, wire burning etc will find out sooner or later.
You don't get back all that much power for all the hassle and expense.
It's not free power.
My opinion is if your not up to this, replace your stock fan and let the rest go.
Good luck.
Just to get another nose in here on this, you are trying to backyard engineer a critical function.
The fan and control system has to cool the motor, cool the A/C if you have it, cool the trans cooler, light the lights, charge the battery and be reliable.
That means you have to understand what your doing.
The factory has years to test, you have real time only and live with the results.
For example, if the fan draws 120 amps at anytime, that is 120 x 13 volts or at least 1560 watts of power from either the battery and or alternator.
The question becomes is the alternator up to this kind of current on a more continuous basis? Is the battery capacity big enough.
Is the wiring and connectors heavy enough, is the workmanship up to the task.
If not, breakdowns and fuse blowing, wire burning etc will find out sooner or later.
You don't get back all that much power for all the hassle and expense.
It's not free power.
My opinion is if your not up to this, replace your stock fan and let the rest go.
Good luck.
The fan and control system has to cool the motor, cool the A/C if you have it, cool the trans cooler, light the lights, charge the battery and be reliable.
That means you have to understand what your doing.
The factory has years to test, you have real time only and live with the results.
For example, if the fan draws 120 amps at anytime, that is 120 x 13 volts or at least 1560 watts of power from either the battery and or alternator.
The question becomes is the alternator up to this kind of current on a more continuous basis? Is the battery capacity big enough.
Is the wiring and connectors heavy enough, is the workmanship up to the task.
If not, breakdowns and fuse blowing, wire burning etc will find out sooner or later.
You don't get back all that much power for all the hassle and expense.
It's not free power.
My opinion is if your not up to this, replace your stock fan and let the rest go.
Good luck.
This "swap" will be done correctly,no corners will be cut as its not worth losing my truck over i assure you. I have a new but stock amp output alternator. Which several lightning guys are using to power mark VIII fans and flex-a-lite's with no problem so im thinking i will be alright? The painless f5 comes with all the wires and fuses that i would need correct? I have had my truck basically completely torn apart except from lifting the cab off the frame,so im pretty confident in doing this swap to electric fans, it should be a piece of cake!







