Clutch install pics.






Had to move the truck to another bay, no torsion keys in it.




Factory clutch components with 150k.








285/75-16's, huge improvement over the 245's in the pics above.

 

That's a serious floor jack! That flywheel looks torched. Wasn't much left of that clutch eh

Great looking truck

 

Thanks, it's my beater but still looks good for a 99.

It is a beast of a floor jack, a little overkill for my truck. I was under the impression we would have it up on a lift but unfortunately the lifts in that shop were way too big for my truck.

The flywheel and clutch looked worse in person, flywheel was covered in cracks. I was impressed though the clutch didn't slip at all until 5000 rpm. I'm pretty hard on this truck too, lots of fishtailing, burnouts and 4x4 drifting

 

Sounds like how I drive. Runnin and gunnin stop light to stop light, even at 4am with no other cars on the road and nobody to impress but myself.

Thank god I don't have an M50D... and bless the 4r70w I have that it just wont die. 180k and still going like it was built yesterday.

Id take that "beater" anyday

 

Haha yeah its not as much about impressing anyone, its just fun.

My wife hates when I spin the tires or slide around a corner with her in the truck. I tried to explain to her, its just in my DNA to have fun in whatever I'm driving.

This is my second M5OD truck and honestly they have been good to me. I had the factory slave cylinder fail in both trucks at over 100k but never any problems with the actual gear box or clutch. I was even harder on my first M5OD truck, it had a 100 shot on it.

 

I just replaced transmission #8 in mine. A real pita outside in the cold. Duralast and Torque Zone make a new slave that uses an external clip that makes disconnecting the slave a snap. That is what I have in the bellhousing. What I did not expect was to break the clip. Both Autozone and O'Reilly carry the new clips. They unfortunately only come with a new slave. Now it is going to cost me $50.00 for a new clip. Wish I had your shop to work in.

 

Could have saved your money after trans number 2 and built a shop

 

That sucks you had to replace another transmission. I wish my truck made that kind of power though.

I didn't see the new slave you mentioned, ended up buying one from Ford. My buddy had a disconnect tool that made it pretty easy to remove.

The only thing I rented was a pilot bearing puller. Of coarse the very first tap with the slide hammer broke one of the arms off of the tool. I welded it back together and the pilot bearing came right out on the second attempt. The best part is O'Reilly still gave me my money back when I returned it.

I would say the biggest PITA for this whole job was getting the torsion keys off. After 15 years of never being removed they did not want to come off.

 

I learned a cool trick a while back for removing pilot bearings. Does not work well if they are froze in there from being torched though. But may have worked in your situation since you were just replacing the clutch. Use a grease gun with a nipple fitting on the end and fill the center of the bearing void with grease. Then find a drill bit that fits tightly into the center of the bearing (using the shaft of the bit, not the cutting end) and give it a whack with a hammer. Acts as a hydraulic and forces the grease to push the bearing out.

 

We actually tried this method first and couldn't get it to work.

 

Here is one I thought up. To easily line up the input shaft splines to the clutch disk I use two 8 inch long threaded rod screwed in the bolt holes in the block. One on each side. Slide the transmission on the rod and push it up to the dowel and start your transmission bolts to pull it all the way home. Unscrew rods and screw in the last two tranny bolts.