I got me a set of Motocraft plugs but it has been frigid the past 2months. Next week the weather will climb back up enough to finally get to change them. To me getting my wrench back in the 2 cylinders next to the firewall might be a pain in the butt plus using extensions and swivels on a torque wrench just dont sit well with me. How can you justify how much torque is actually being applied to the plugs with extensions? I have heard of others stating they seat them snug then just give another 1/2-3/4 of a full turn?

 

When you are installing a front plug that's easy to get to, seat it snug - to a point that you can easily repeat by feel. Then, when you use the torque wrench, note how far it turns to hit 28 ft/lb.

 

I replaced mine without the use of a torque wrench. I've been doing my own repairs as much as possible for over 50 yrs. I depend on my calibrated arms/hands. Also, I read before I started that you needed a spark plug socket that had a built in universal. That is incorrect. It hinders the job, not helps.

 

Ive got a deep well spark plug socket its about 3.5" long or so

you can feel the torque on it. It will build resistance and about 1/4 turn once it gets snug resistance

 

OP - here's a good reference.

Tapered-seat plugs build torque very predictably (dry). Just need to know the diameter ( and you may need to infer between sizes).

http://www.densoiridium.com/installationguide.php

good luck!


MGD

 

I just tighten them as tight as I can get them with a 3/8s drive if I dont have access to a torque wrench.

 

I'll just snug them down and give about another 1/2 turn after they are snug. I dont really want to **** around with a torque wrench with extensions doing this job. Ive hand tightened them in the past and never had issues thus far. I wanted to hear how you all do them withput a torque

 

Between a quarter to half turn will set it about right, IF everything is clean and the plug threaded in no problem with a section of 3/8 of air hose, - or whatever.

Takes about 100' lbs to damage the threads. 35-40' lbs to damage the ceramic seal at the plug. 15-20' lbs and they'll jump back out at yuh when least expect it.

You sure you don't want a torque wrench?

 

 

And I use a 1/4" drive with a cheater pipe....

 

The longer the extension the less torque I will get at the plug, Correct or am I wrong? So your saying that from a snug position that a quarter to half turn will suffice? I got a 3/8" TW and a few extensions to use. The reason I really asked this question is that I have been reading on here people just snugging up the plugs then giving it another 1/4-1/2 turn, done! I really wonder how close to 28ft lbs they are getting....

 

If you'd have looked at the table within that linky you'd already know the answer to that

MGD

 

when using a torque wrench extensions don't take away torque....swivels on the other hand redirect torque.....

where yer probably getting the idea of extensions robbing torque is from impact guns which are based off of spring torque which is a different type of torque.

 

The length of the extensions don't really matter for the torque it's the angle of the universal joint. If your u joint is angled quite a bit you want to make sure it's not binding as you'll get less torque to the plug. I'm sure there are better universals that won't bind but mine was a cheap one.

 

I didn't have much of an issue using a torque wrench on the back two cylinders. Just zip tied some stuff out of the way. For the whole job I only needed one extension and did not use a swivel at all.