my '99 baby status HELP please
my '99 baby status HELP please
I am opening up this thread so i can beg for some help. My 1999 F150 V8 4.6 step side reg cab
is currently not starting. I have read several threads here and other sites, and i am going to get very detailed, so i hope i don't get any use the search responses.
So the truck has about 180,000 miles, and the odometer goes in and out would love to fix that.. but anyway I bought the truck in New Hampshire years ago, I am from Massachusetts, and i drove her down to Florida where I currently live and go to school. I have done almost all of the work/repairs myself, and with excellent help from this site which i love.
So here is the current situation: In the last month or so, my truck did not start first try about 4 times, just a single hard click. Each time, I popped the hood, literally only wiggled my battery terminals, and then it started up first try.
side note: my check engine light turned on during my trip down to florida. I filled up my tank and checked my dipstick at a station, then light is on, can't remember code right now but its a misfire on #7.
back to the current problem, which I believe to be unrelated as of now.. same no start problem but i still haven't got it to start. I have traced all wiring and nothing is corroded to the point of breaking.
I replaced the starter relay switch today(the one on firewall passenger side) because some testing made me believe it was dead, but no change.
The starter was replaced brand new less than 4 months ago because it died.
The alternator was replaced recently maybe a year ago.
Battery replaced couple months ago.
Checked all of the fuses but please suggest any I'm happy to recheck.
currently, after working on it most of today and nothing more than the click from relay and starter, my battery is at advanced auto i went hoping for a replacement but their test said to charge so i left it.
I brought it because of this advice i found on here
"As for the battery, if it had a broken internal cell strap, it can act as you see because it will act the same as a bad connection anywhere in the circuit because it's a part of the same. The tipoff to this condition is the interior lights will go out when a load is placed on the battery and the voltage goes low."
sorry i forget who said that but that is exactly what happens, when i turn the key everything else turns off, lights if they are on, radio, whatever.
So in the morning i plan to pick up my battery or get a new battery, and i am going to rewire the "big3" or 4 now apparently. I currently think the problem is a bad ground, which my rewire will fix, but not positive.
I think i just helped myself by getting all my thoughts out, but any ideas at all please share.
I will update my status regardless of if anyone replys.
Sorry for the lengthy post.. its been a long day..
also i am going to post some pics of my truck tomorrow, running or not I am proud of how she looks
is currently not starting. I have read several threads here and other sites, and i am going to get very detailed, so i hope i don't get any use the search responses. So the truck has about 180,000 miles, and the odometer goes in and out would love to fix that.. but anyway I bought the truck in New Hampshire years ago, I am from Massachusetts, and i drove her down to Florida where I currently live and go to school. I have done almost all of the work/repairs myself, and with excellent help from this site which i love.
So here is the current situation: In the last month or so, my truck did not start first try about 4 times, just a single hard click. Each time, I popped the hood, literally only wiggled my battery terminals, and then it started up first try.
side note: my check engine light turned on during my trip down to florida. I filled up my tank and checked my dipstick at a station, then light is on, can't remember code right now but its a misfire on #7.
back to the current problem, which I believe to be unrelated as of now.. same no start problem but i still haven't got it to start. I have traced all wiring and nothing is corroded to the point of breaking.
I replaced the starter relay switch today(the one on firewall passenger side) because some testing made me believe it was dead, but no change.
The starter was replaced brand new less than 4 months ago because it died.
The alternator was replaced recently maybe a year ago.
Battery replaced couple months ago.
Checked all of the fuses but please suggest any I'm happy to recheck.
currently, after working on it most of today and nothing more than the click from relay and starter, my battery is at advanced auto i went hoping for a replacement but their test said to charge so i left it.
I brought it because of this advice i found on here
"As for the battery, if it had a broken internal cell strap, it can act as you see because it will act the same as a bad connection anywhere in the circuit because it's a part of the same. The tipoff to this condition is the interior lights will go out when a load is placed on the battery and the voltage goes low."
sorry i forget who said that but that is exactly what happens, when i turn the key everything else turns off, lights if they are on, radio, whatever.
So in the morning i plan to pick up my battery or get a new battery, and i am going to rewire the "big3" or 4 now apparently. I currently think the problem is a bad ground, which my rewire will fix, but not positive.
I think i just helped myself by getting all my thoughts out, but any ideas at all please share.
I will update my status regardless of if anyone replys.
Sorry for the lengthy post.. its been a long day..
also i am going to post some pics of my truck tomorrow, running or not I am proud of how she looks
Would you suggest definitely replacing all of the spark plugs right away or trying just #7 and seeing if that solves the misfire?
I'd check the main wire to the starter. your from the northeast lots of road salt up there. The wire corrodes internally so check it good. Thats probably been an issue for awhile all that stuff you replaced recently..
Advance should be able to LOAD test the alternator in the parking lot without pulling it. If they can't, I know Autozone can.
Spark plugs are only about $3.50 each, change them all, ESPECIALLY if you don't know when they were last done. Motorcraft only, please.
Spark plugs are only about $3.50 each, change them all, ESPECIALLY if you don't know when they were last done. Motorcraft only, please.
Iv been testing the voltage and its been about 12.5 and hasn't had any problems losing charge so i have not been thinking alternator, but when it was replaced it actually was a used part so I will keep that in mind. and when i pick up my battery tomorrow morning it will be tested after a charge by advanced auto so i am waiting to see the results. It is under warranty if the test does have any flags. thanks the thoughts.
Would you suggest definitely replacing all of the spark plugs right away or trying just #7 and seeing if that solves the misfire?
Would you suggest definitely replacing all of the spark plugs right away or trying just #7 and seeing if that solves the misfire?
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like i mentioned i am redoing wiring hoping it will fix the no-start, my grounds and positive wires are very corroded. I am going to post my wiring plan with a few questions now.

heres the harness i pulled out. i need to know
-out of curiosity does ford sell harnesses at dealership?
-what is best way to redo the frame ground? bolt is practically rusted solid with frame along with connections, bolt or previous hole is not usable.

this is my plan. I am going to leave alternator connections for the time being.
I got battery terminals, 0gauge wiring and 0gauge connections from KnuKonceptz, should be here saturday.
-could someone let me know if it is ok to use some 8 gauge wiring for the starter relay to starter, as marked with a thinner line on the pic, i have a lot of it, nice quality, and the original wire is considerably thinner.
- is the strange shaped rubber connection serve any purpose? prevent current jumping between? can i use normal wire/connection with decent insulation?
-the other connections i plan to do not pictures are engine block to firewall grounding strap, and a frame to chassis ground strap that i found to be broken clean in two, this actually broke several months ago so it is not the immediate cause of the no start..
thanks in advance for any help before i get started on saturday
EDIT-ok realized its not really a harness.. just separate connections happen to be connected so ignore any harness references..
Last edited by F150SS paxton; Nov 14, 2013 at 10:35 PM.






