1997 - 2003 F-150

Oil Tube Replacement Nightmare

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Old Oct 28, 2013 | 08:32 AM
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Cajaw Jordan's Avatar
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Oil Tube Replacement Nightmare

2000 f150 4x4 4.2L
Recently I discovered the Dipstick Tube had rusted out. I was quoted a price of several hundred dollars to replace. I normally do all repair work and after asking many mechanics I was told repeatedly to remove Oil Pan and drive remainder of old tube out. I was also told that to do this would require to drop oil pan and than raise engine as far as possible and oil pan would definitely squeeze out....not easy but would come out. Well, this appears not to be so. I now have and oil pan hung up between top of motor and the right(passenger side) axle. I am not sure where to go next....should I remove right(passenger side) front axle? Disconnect drive shaft from front universal? Both? Suggestions would be appreciated!
 
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Old Oct 28, 2013 | 11:06 AM
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It's nice to do a long thorough job like that but see where your at.
The dipstick tube hole has an inside bore landing that a neoprene ring seal sets on.
With some loosen all applied and given some time to work, a tap just the right size to grab the tube inside without placing a lot of pressure against the block should work it loose and be able to draw it out with some choice words added while working on it with a prying moment applied.
Size the tap in the old tube.
After you get it out you may find the new tube too long to set in place with the exhaust manifold on.
In that case look at the dip tube's block end.
It's quite long below the ring seal land.
Cut just enough off this area to allow getting the tube in place.
With the pan down flush to hopefully get any debris out from the work.
There is an oil pump pickup screen and a oil filter so don't be to concerned about picking up anything that is large but don't let anything in if you can get it out.
I wish you the best getting the remainder of the old dip stick tube out.
Just takes working it loose in it's bore.
The result of an open tube like this can be a code since the crankcase is part of the monitored system for air leaks.
Good luck.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2013 | 12:08 PM
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i tried everything

I tried easy outs and couldn't get enough leverage...it was suggested to me not attempt too much, such as drilling...in fear of metal shavings contaminating the oil....getting past the oil filter and possibly damaging the motor...4 different professional mechanics told me the oil pan could be dropped by hoisting the motor with and engine crane.....I assumed(and you know what that means) that they knew what they were talking about..lol....I just found my service manual and it states that the differential must be dropped! On a 2wd...the motor must be pulled! Can you believe it? This has been a fine truck....I can't believe Ford would use cheap sheet metal in manufacturing dipstick tube...This is a common problem on f150s....as this oil pan is used on all engines of that year. I guess I will give it a rest and psyche myself up for a take down of the differential. Who knows what a dealer would charge........
 
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Old Oct 28, 2013 | 03:22 PM
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Have you tried this?

Threaded rod w/metal nut w/nylon insert. Slide it thru the broken piece hook the nut so it catches the bottom of the tube piece. It helps if you bend the threaded rod slightly before shoving it thru.

With a scrap piece of pipe or deep-well socket, slide it over the threaded rod followed by a washer and nut.

Tighten the nut against the washer that sits over the pipe to extract remaining piece.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2013 | 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Cajaw Jordan
I guess I will give it a rest and psyche myself up for a take down of the differential. Who knows what a dealer would charge........
I have not done a Ford, but have done a few Chevys. The front differential is a walk in the park. Granted I was in a shop, with access to any tool required on a lift, but within a hour I have had the front diffs out.

I leave the axles in the truck, just unbolt them from the front diff. and pry them out of the flange, also left the driveshaft connected to the transfer case. Remove the vent and vacuum lines, and the 3 large bolts that attach it to the frame. Just support it with a floor jack and let it down. Install is a little harder to get a bolt started alone but I have done it.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2013 | 04:07 PM
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You can also try bending the threaded rod about 115 degrees, then cut the bend back far enough to have the ability to slide thru the pipe.

Keep in mind, your threaded rod should be about half the inside diameter of the piece your trying to remove.

Hey, it works, you'll be surprised how easy and quickly it does.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2013 | 07:57 PM
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I like your idea, in fact it makes a lot of sense.......I am a little red in the face....as I did not do my complete homework......I could have probably just dropped the differential in the first place! I took for granted what people told me instead of going to the service manual! I am lucky in that I do have the tools...but no lift....but I haveplenty of time and my labor is cheaper than $100/hr that a typical garage charges.
Thanks
CJ
 
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Old Oct 28, 2013 | 08:00 PM
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Very clever idea......unfortunately....I now have to replace the oilpan gasket...so I must drop the pan........wish I would have chatted with you last week...wow! very clever idea as I think deeper about it!
Thanks again
CJ
 
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Old Oct 28, 2013 | 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Cajaw Jordan
Very clever idea......unfortunately....I now have to replace the oilpan gasket...so I must drop the pan........wish I would have chatted with you last week...wow! very clever idea as I think deeper about it!
Thanks again
CJ
Yea it works, specially if you grind that bend back in such a way, and leave a nice little hook on the end.

I don't know about clever, - I think it was more of a matter of really not wanting to do the ladder lol.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2013 | 03:17 AM
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I used a self taping screw and pried on the self tapping screw
 
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Old Oct 29, 2013 | 10:25 AM
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self tapping screw

The self-tapping screw idea was suggested to me by a local ford dealer. They claimed a lot of success, cutting the tube down just a few inches long and then inserting a self-tapping screw with slide hammer. Looking at the tube where it inserts through the block...I just didn't see any room....I am the physical size of and NFL linebacker and just barely fit under the truck as is..lol...and again you have the problem of possibly dropping metal shavings into the oilpan....it is just a difficult job no matter what you do!
 
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Old Oct 30, 2013 | 01:27 AM
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If you are worried about metal shavings then either squirt some shaving cream into the tube first, or stuff a small piece of sponge into the tube before you start.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2013 | 10:45 AM
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oil dipstick tube saga contined

Finally got the Differential to drop and oilpan dropped right out!!!!!! Still unable to push tube back through yet. Cut the tube inside of oilpan by a few inches and will try a hardened bolt up through short piece through block and hit with and air hammer! Why do you guys think???? Any bets, that baby is stuck tight, but I believe it will come out...next step if it fails is a just short of tight drillbit to shave the inside of tube and weaken and possibly cut it. Either it or I will give shortly! LOL
CJ
 
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Old Nov 1, 2013 | 08:48 PM
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dipstick tube

Finally got the dipstick tube out with and air hammer. Didn't come easy! Getting the new tube back in has proved tough so far....will let the sun come back again and try with a 2nd person. It's going to take a lot of finessing but maybe everything will go back together!

cj
 
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Old Nov 1, 2013 | 08:59 PM
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any suggestions on how to line the new dipstick tube while going through block and bolting in place on the engine......so far I have found it needs a perfect alignment...no go so far!
cj
 
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