I've replaced about 3/4 of the steel tubing on my '99, now it needs the section from the unit under the master cylinder (ABS?) to under the driver's floor. I ran new stuff a couple of years ago, from the rear up, but flared and coupled it where it comes out from the frame, under the driver's side floor. Only did this as a temporary fix. I was concerned that the fitting on the ABS unit would break, so I spliced to that section instead of attempting to remove it. Now I have a leak in the spiraled section, below the m/cyl, so have to fix it right.
So, does anyone have experience removing the fitting on the ABS unit? Or, any suggestions? Or better, does anyone sell pre bent tubing for these trucks? Thanks.

 

you can try RockAuto.com...should have the replacement parts there as well as OEM. If you have questions about proper fitment RA has phone number you can call too to be sure you are getting the correct parts.

there is TASCAparts.com too...for OEM...im sure that they can get the correct parts as well...they will ask for your vin#

and of course...there is your local salvage yards...if you wanting something more economical

 

I'm sure you can find pre bent lines. I gutted my 98, removed EVERY hardline and trashed them. There's a little trick to doing this correct. Well, not a trick really, rather things to keep in mind.

Flaring kits, - Snap-on/ Blue point. OR, - two or 3 cheap kits. Two cheapish sets might do the entire job, but they wear out and deform quickly.

Always keep and re-use some of your old fittings with the new hardline. Your going to have to. Well you might anyway. I did the 98 about 4 years ago and I tried like hell to find all the correct fittings @ the distribution block and Master but was unsuccessful. So I re-used some of the originals without a problem, - as long as the flare seat is okay(they usually are, even tho they look like hell on the outside lol).
The hardline comes by the foot. You need at least 26' for the complete replacement. I know your not doing a complete RR, but I'll thro some extra info in here anyway. (in case someone finds this thru search). You have to keep that coil line section by the master or you'll get one wheel lockup lol. I found that out the hard-way, - even wrote Ford about it lol. It's to equalize pressure during a power brake. You can slide a 3/16 spring section over new line and coil it easy. I used a 1/4 roll of paper towel to coil new line lol. But yea, you need that coil section to brake safely.

I would see if I could line sections w/correct fittings tho first. Try Rock Auto and Tasca. They may offer them now. (?)

Crap.. Enriched, - took for ever to complete my post, - didn't see yours yet. So if I contradicted anything.....

 

Fear not jbrew you had far better input....you are a wealth of info as always

seems like were were heading in the same direction....RA has been adding several new vendors lately

 

Thanks , Oh yea, - RA and Tasca both have surprised me a few times when looking for parts.

 

thanks guys, problem I'm having now is getting the fitting off of the proportioning valve. Almost afraid to put any force on it. Will it come off, or do I risk wringing the tube off at the proportioning valve?
I may try to get in there and splice it, if I can get the flaring tool in that tight area, but I doubt it.
Oh, and now I noticed the front one is leaking.

 

Forget slicing, your asking for leaks lol. Just make a new , easy and cheap. I have a solid line from under the to the rears. Simple to since 3/16 comes in rolls, but I've already mentioned that , - haven't I lol..

 

Agreed, dont wan't to splice if I can help it. Just wondered if the fitting will cooperate and come loose from the proportioning valve. Have you had luck getting one apart? That's where I'm stuck, don't want to force it and break the tube that comes out of the valve. Haven't priced the proportioning valve, but I am sure it's not cheap.

 

Well, the best you can do is pre-treat w/PB Blaster for a couple days, then apply just a little heat, I mean don't boil fluid in the master, just a little heat if you really want to save that line. Slowly work it both ways until you get brave enough lol. - Or run out of patience I should say...