1997 - 2003 F-150

Front hub nut

Old Aug 9, 2013 | 02:03 AM
  #1  
F150redneck's Avatar
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From: Montgomery PA
Front hub nut

Does anybody know the torque specs on the front wheel bearing assem nut? Im changing mine out due to little play in passenger side but cant find the specs. It shouldnt be different on the 7700 compaired to any other F150 correct?
 
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Old Aug 9, 2013 | 04:27 AM
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From: Bama
I have always tightened till I can get the cotter pin into it.


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Old Aug 9, 2013 | 02:52 PM
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JCR 56's Avatar
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From: ky.
I believe 4x4 is about 225 ft.lbs. on the spindle nut.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2013 | 03:00 PM
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About as tight as you can with a 2 foot breaker bar.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2013 | 08:09 AM
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I went and looked it up in my Ford Specifications Book and it states:

Front Axle Hub Nut 255-345Nm or 188-254Lb-Ft

Good luck in your repair!
 
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 10:06 PM
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Well got it done. I called the Ford dealer and asked what size nut is on the 7700 and they said it was 32mm. It was 36mm, go figure they wouldnt know! I argured with them for 10min about the size, they said they just did one for the 7700 and it was 32mm. I said well any other F150 is 36mm so how could it be smaller on my truck? What a load.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2013 | 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by F150redneck
Well got it done. I called the Ford dealer and asked what size nut is on the 7700 and they said it was 32mm. It was 36mm, go figure they wouldnt know! I argured with them for 10min about the size, they said they just did one for the 7700 and it was 32mm. I said well any other F150 is 36mm so how could it be smaller on my truck? What a load.
Good Job!

I know 32mm isn't right lol, - not on the 1/2 tons or 7700's anyway. The old Windstars maybe. Actually, the most common size for our trucks is 35mm or 1 3/8" (same). I use the 1 3/8, 3/4 driver. 1 3/8" fits nice and tight. Sounds like you talked to a Service Writer. They are usually only half right. What sucks is, you never know which half, - right off anyways.

The posts above are right on, as far as torque. Well, - the sweet spot is actually 222' lbs. But yea, JCR and BlackFerrits numbers are good as well.

Here's a little on threadlockers you might want to know, -

If by chance you pulled the bolts on the half shaft and/or Anchor plate, - don't forget the threadlockers or most likely, you'll be sorry and stuck on the side of the road in the near future. Loctite Red #268, -Quickstix solid for the CV shaft bolts and Quickstix Blue #248 for the anchor plate bolts.
New bolts are always best, but aren't always necessary IMO. Infact Ford uses a locktite on the bolts mentioned above. It's pre-applied for you if you purchase new ones. They use what's known as "Dri-Loc" (Loctite),-

http://www.henkel-loctite-kid.de/en/...ng.php?navid=9

They also use allot of Loctite "Vibra-Seal 516 Orange" on certain bolts, - usually coolant system bolts and fasteners.

The #248 and #268 threadlockers are about the same as the Dri-Loc, with the exception, dry lock offers a dry to the touch hardened coating that dissolves when you run the bolts in. 248 & 268 you apply yourself via Quickstix. One more difference, Quickstix (Locktite) is more affordable and can be found. I've seen it on Amazon and eBay at very good prices. The cheapest I've seen Dri-Loc go for is about 100 bucks, in a more than you'll ever need container lol. . - Wish I could find that stuff cheaper tho, - don't really need it, but it could come in handy. Engine builders use it as it's specified. The 516 Orange is probably the most common and used by many.

I'll stop it here, - just in case you wanted to know what to use, this should help. Whatever you do, don't use that liquid Permatex thread locker off the shelf for coarse and/or deep rooted threads/bolts. Trust me, it won't work.
 
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