Parking Brake Control
Parking Brake Control
Had seized rear cables, pressed too hard on parking brake lever and somethng broke, now won't ratchet or spring release, but holds in and had to manually lift up to release. Finally removed parking brake control unit, but appears front cable is permanently attached. Does that mean I have to replace the whole front assembly (control & cable)? Have to order new rear cables, but cannot find a control assembly, so I assume I will have to find a used one. Am I on the right track here?
Have you looked around the parking brake system to see what actually broke? If you were trying to operate a corrosion seized parking brake by stomping on the pedal, then it sounds like you may have snapped a rear cable. Everything's exposed, so you should be able to narrow it down. The rear cable is responsible for the spring return when you pull the ( P ) release handle.
What's the "parking brake control unit?"
Are you referring to the pedal assembly?
It's pretty rare to have problems with the front half of the parking brake system.
What's the "parking brake control unit?"
Are you referring to the pedal assembly?
It's pretty rare to have problems with the front half of the parking brake system.
Last edited by AndersonS; May 23, 2013 at 09:12 AM.
2003 F150 S/C 4x4 4.6L Auto S/B (forgot to mention)
Yes, I am pretty sure the rear Left is broken, given the amount of clear cable from that line. Thanks for clarifying the spring return, and control unit is the pedal assembly.
I was originally following up on Dealer that inspected last week and noted 'seized rear cables and control ratchet broken'. I recall the pedal could only be pushed maybe one click, but my wife drove it this weekend and tried really pushing the pedal and I believe that's when 'a' cable broke. (Yes, I know I should have told my wife, and probably not let her drive my truck) To clarify my original note, the pedal could be pushed to the floor (no ratcheting sound, maybe because of no tension?) and locked, but had to be manually lifted when you pulled the release.
So maybe I should reinstall the pedal assembly (control unit) and replace rear cables and see what I have? What a mess, cause it's a tight fit.
Long run, also hoping my parking brake is linked to some vibration I get at 50+ mph (80 kmh).
Yes, I am pretty sure the rear Left is broken, given the amount of clear cable from that line. Thanks for clarifying the spring return, and control unit is the pedal assembly.
I was originally following up on Dealer that inspected last week and noted 'seized rear cables and control ratchet broken'. I recall the pedal could only be pushed maybe one click, but my wife drove it this weekend and tried really pushing the pedal and I believe that's when 'a' cable broke. (Yes, I know I should have told my wife, and probably not let her drive my truck) To clarify my original note, the pedal could be pushed to the floor (no ratcheting sound, maybe because of no tension?) and locked, but had to be manually lifted when you pulled the release.
So maybe I should reinstall the pedal assembly (control unit) and replace rear cables and see what I have? What a mess, cause it's a tight fit.
Long run, also hoping my parking brake is linked to some vibration I get at 50+ mph (80 kmh).
Yea, get a set of rear cables. They very well may be responsible for some vibration, but I wouldn't bet on it.
I can't recall, but I don't think my parking brake pedal makes a ratcheting sound when it engages... with or without a cable.
Removing the pedal assembly must've sucked.
I can't recall, but I don't think my parking brake pedal makes a ratcheting sound when it engages... with or without a cable.
Removing the pedal assembly must've sucked.
Pulled off Left side disc last night to see if sticking, it was not, pulled on cable and there is some shoe movement, so will pick up both cables ($25 Left, $65 Right) and install.
Haven't put the front assembly back in yet, but trying to recall where all the slack was from.
Maybe I'll see more when I open up the right side.
Haven't put the front assembly back in yet, but trying to recall where all the slack was from.
Maybe I'll see more when I open up the right side.
Go ahead and make sure this part is greased well while you're at it...

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thanks, if i'm all the way in there that's a good idea. I hope my normal grease will do, don't want to have to go back for the special stuff. Have about 1/8" left on one pad on left, maybe time to change as well...no sure how fast they wear?
Rear pads wear slowly compared to the fronts in normal driving.
Change 'em if you want, but sometimes I get lazy and wait for the wear indicator squeakers to hit the rotor.
However, if one pad on the rear is wearing faster than the other three, then you have a problem that needs to be corrected.
Change 'em if you want, but sometimes I get lazy and wait for the wear indicator squeakers to hit the rotor.
However, if one pad on the rear is wearing faster than the other three, then you have a problem that needs to be corrected.
Solved! For the most part, all works. Thanks for all the pointers.
Got a bit lazy and didn't change the pads, but bought the spring kit, and made sure I greased the main joint, mine wasn't nearly as clean as that pictured above, but they both move freely again.
Made my own measuring bracket out of 1x2 and 1x1 angle joints screwed on, set pads just under 1mm and made sure could move by hand.
Didn't have proper pliers but found a tiedown around the pads made sure they didn't shift while I attempted to get the top spring on with needle nose pliers. Needed three hands to do the pad springs as the mini pin moved too much.
Front assembly went back in ok. Used quick ties to hold wires out of the way and keep pedal closed (no pin available). Much easier with release cable fully off and brake light disconnected.
Took a bit of pulling but was able to join the front and rear cable. And of course found all the spring action is from the rear cable ends and the pad springs.
Got a bit lazy and didn't change the pads, but bought the spring kit, and made sure I greased the main joint, mine wasn't nearly as clean as that pictured above, but they both move freely again.
Made my own measuring bracket out of 1x2 and 1x1 angle joints screwed on, set pads just under 1mm and made sure could move by hand.
Didn't have proper pliers but found a tiedown around the pads made sure they didn't shift while I attempted to get the top spring on with needle nose pliers. Needed three hands to do the pad springs as the mini pin moved too much.
Front assembly went back in ok. Used quick ties to hold wires out of the way and keep pedal closed (no pin available). Much easier with release cable fully off and brake light disconnected.
Took a bit of pulling but was able to join the front and rear cable. And of course found all the spring action is from the rear cable ends and the pad springs.




