1997 - 2003 F-150

Replaced Coil over plug and injectors now no power/really rough?

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Old May 11, 2013 | 09:53 PM
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Replaced Coil over plug and injectors now no power/really rough?

So i ordered some coil over plugs, plugs, and injectors off ebay, my problem was occasional stuttering in my motor at random times and under a constant load so figure I would replace those

today replaced everything and now with everything back together i starter her up and the idle is quite rough and there is almost no power, as well there is kind of a whining/squeeling sound when the throttle is pushed

theres no gas or anything leaking from the new injectors, getting no engine codes or anything

drove it up the street and there was barely enough power to take a cruise around an otherwise flat neighborhood

very discouraging :/

any suggestions? it's not like REALLY chugging the idle is definately noticeably rougher when your sitting in the vehicle and the lack of power/sound like i said

oh and it's a 2000 4.6L
 

Last edited by sniperslayer; May 11, 2013 at 10:22 PM.
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Old May 11, 2013 | 10:29 PM
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From: Joplin MO
What brand are the plugs and which Ebay cops did you get?
 
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Old May 11, 2013 | 10:43 PM
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From: missing Texas...
we need more info


#1 why the sudden change in parts

#2 what size injectors?

#3 what plugs? and what gap?

#4 what COPS???
 
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Old May 11, 2013 | 10:46 PM
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I hope you don't take offense but you overdid the job and got deeper into trouble.
The coils and plugs should have been enough.
Question is did the coils and lnjectors get plugged up with their proper connectors or any connectors left loose?
Only way for a loss of power from this work is the plugup.
With cylinders down on power, you should get codes as a result.
Take a look because I don't think it's anything else based on what you describe.
Good luck.
 
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Old May 11, 2013 | 10:48 PM
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so i bought these COP and plugs:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/170817912229...84.m1439.l2649

and these injectors:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200902253767...84.m1439.l2648

Reason that i changed over the parts was because there was an occasional stutter/RPM drop/rise which from everything ive read online was most likely due to a faulty COP, although i never got an CEL once

the plugs were gapped out of the box at the standard 0.0054 i beleive, and i checked them with the plugs i took out and they seemed exactly the same

And yea, the loss of power is HUGE like with my foot 3/4 on the throttle i barely have enough power to pull out of my driveway..the RPM's get up there though just no go.. also when i rolled to a stop to make a corner or slowed, the engine drops to a low enough RPM that is stutters like its going to stall but recovered every time it did this

As i went along and pulled the COP/Plugs i used my air compressor and wand to spray out each plug hole before removing the old plug for the new one
 

Last edited by sniperslayer; May 11, 2013 at 10:53 PM.
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Old May 12, 2013 | 01:55 AM
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also:

I have a stethascope so i will listen to the injectors tommorow, if they are all consistant could you assume the fuel system is working correctly?

so then it would leave it to the plugs or COP

**** the lack of power is like sooo bad though unless it's multiple COP or somthing i wonder if its the vaccum lines?

before i took everything apart i unplugged the harness for the fuel reset switch as stated to release pressure, i reattached all this and the battery then proceeded to start it for the first time, if there was somthing wrong with my first go such as the vaccum line would it be possible for the air flow sensor to have adjusted fuel flow based on that?
 
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Old May 12, 2013 | 04:26 AM
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SP-495 is not the right plug, it's 1 heat range too cold. You need SP-479.

I question the quality of those coils, I highly doubt they are OEM quality as stated. Same with those remanufactured injectors.
 
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Old May 12, 2013 | 12:58 PM
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First thing is you try to over analyze the problem.
Second is you threw mass replacement parts in and chose poorly at that and created such a confusion for yourself.
The plugs, even if one range cooler won't cause rough running and loss of power but you should put the correct heat range in for the long term..
At this point it would not be unreasonable to put your old coil set back in if it gets the motor running well again, then hunt for the original issue as should have been done initially.
I'm not trying to be hard on you but get your attention that you should not work the way you have on a engine performance issue by creating an out of control situation.
At this point no-one can tell you what the problem is.
Go back to square one and begin again the proper way.
There are other ways to look for a faulty coil but you have to get back to that point first.
Good luck.
 
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Old May 12, 2013 | 01:12 PM
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yea i'm going to throw the original COP back in and see what happens, work backwards

****ing hell :@

basically my thought process was replace injectors while i was in there already
 
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Old May 12, 2013 | 02:07 PM
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Did you get the plugs and wires hooked up in the correct order?
 
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Old May 12, 2013 | 02:49 PM
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yea, the way these wires are they basically cant be moved from where they were in order, so its almost impossible to mess that up

So a little update, with my stethoscope i managed to find two of the new injectors were only clicking very faintly, if at all [kind of hard to tell from noise pollution through the stethoschope]

so i swapped these 2 new injectors out for 2 old ones, and voila! it's at about 85% of it's normal power now

unfortunately i think getting it back to where it was before or to 100% is going to take alot more time :/

if these injectors were not working at all is there a chance the plugs on those cylinders would be bad?

wondering if i should just swap back all the injectors
 
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Old May 12, 2013 | 05:21 PM
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Basicly you had no 'provable' reason to change the injectors.
Get all your original coils back in place then start from that point to see what the drivability issue is.
Injectors and plugs are totally seperate. One does not affect the other in the short term.
Expect this will be a long term situation discovering and working out any issues when you need advice from the board.
The very best way to see what you have after returning the parts and getting back to reasonable running is to look at the live data and all the parameters for signs of being out of limits.
This takes a Scanner that can look at those parameters.
Otherwise you will hassle with this a long time before things get all worked out.
Good luck.
 
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Old May 12, 2013 | 05:48 PM
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So after listening to each injector with a stethascope i decided on pulling out all the driver side new injectors and replacing them with the old and just swaping out the o-rings from the new ones

as i pulled them out the 2nd in had a tonne of grime and buildup on it so i cleaned out the hole and surrounding area as best i could, pulled the coil and plug on that cylinder to see if anything was up with it

the plug was fine but that COP seemed quite a ways out of parameters in terms of resitances so i swapped back in an old coil that i measured to be bang on [an oem motorcraft of course .. :S]

so.. 6 old injectors back in, 1 old COP, all buttoned up ANDDDD...

BETTER THAN EVER! lol

yea, motor has a better idle, runs stronger/smoother than i can remember in recent memory [so most likely like 40-50,000km] and power is smooth like butter

Thanks for the suggestions everybody, maybe somone will learn down the road not to take such drastic steps as I lol
 
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Old May 12, 2013 | 10:48 PM
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Well, i'm happy I didn't get the limb cut off after I went out on it telling you to go back.
It was the only thing you could do to show faulty parts new or old, and get a new start on solving the problems.
Glad it worked out that well.
If you still have something going on later, come back and we will try to help you work it out again.
Thanks for being patient because many get insulted at some of my directions and opinions trying to get them to take a different look at how they go about things.
I only have 50 years of diagnostics for hardware and circuits to call on trying to be of help. So it becomes a second religion and way of living.
As a result I do very little guessing.
Good luck.
 
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Old May 12, 2013 | 11:33 PM
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im glad it worked out that well as well lol, im sure it could have been worse :S

i'm always open to help and F150online has provided a bunch of info to me since i've joined, i wont lie i'm probably the type that only comes around when a problem arises but its great to have a resource like F150online that has an active knowledgeable user base.

Me and my dad actually worked on this together and both of us have relatively extensive experiance in engines and mechanics but on a tonne of varrying vehicles from engines swaps on honda's to whole rebuilds of Porsche's, but father like son we usually jump in over our heads and have to go back and rework problems rather than really breaking down somthing in the first place lol

Again, much appreciated for the help everyone! im glad i'm back up and running, hopefully keep it going for another handfull of years
 
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