1997 - 2003 F-150

No oil pressure after transmission swap?

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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 02:22 PM
  #16  
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How about a 3V V10
 
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 02:25 PM
  #17  
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Yea, That's all I'm going to do, - just throw a v-10 in and kooks long tube headers, then be done with it. Thanks to you and one other... See what yuh did!
 
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 02:34 PM
  #18  
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Yea, you really can't do to much to the V10 anyway. The have that crank wrap problem lol (crank flex). Unless someone makes a better crank for them now ?

Doesn't matter, that motor would be fun enough for me. Cool swap.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 02:57 PM
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The 3v V-10 is a beast. It does have the same spark plug issues as the 5.4 3v, but it doesn't have VVT.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 03:43 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by glc
The 3v V-10 is a beast. It does have the same spark plug issues as the 5.4 3v, but it doesn't have VVT.
Yea, I looked over the specs real quick. They looked impressive. I wanted to compare it to the two valve but haven't done so yet. Lots of torque w/that 3v!
 
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 09:52 PM
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Save this link, - it's from Engine Builder Mag, who is Babcox. These guys know the modulars inside and out. There's two pages on oil pump tech. Seems to me, there's plenty that can go wrong. Babcox/Engine builders info can be trusted. Read this to give you a better idea with what can happen, - if you not aware.

Engine Builder Mag (Babcox)

I know you mentioned running thick oil somewhere, - I think as a joke lol. You really shouldn't as the pump can work twice as hard because of the pickup screen restriction. It may just burn up prematurely. Not saying that's what happened, I have know idea why the pump quit or plugged. At the moment anyway. Quick google search; it's not that uncommon, -


Google Search results ("V10/OP)"
 

Last edited by jbrew; Apr 30, 2013 at 09:55 PM. Reason: Added search
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 09:56 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by jbrew
How about a 3V V10
Yeah, if I have to cut that motor out, it's getting a 3V - or maybe I'll get a couple pairs of 32v 5.4 heads and weld on two more cylinders. How hard could that be?

Seriously though, I thought about the 3v but cam phasers kind of scare me. I also wonder if the cam phaser issues are just like the spitting plugs issue. Not really an issue if you do stuff right and use the right oil.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 10:02 PM
  #23  
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I wouldn't attempt a 3V with a 2V original power plant vehicle. I'm not sure you could get EVERYTHING to work right. I don't have that kind of ambition, -if I do, it's very well hidden. What a headache that could be lol. I guess, if you educated yourself enough on it you could do it, but 2V to 3V isn't an easy task.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 10:05 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by ishootstuff
Yeah, if I have to cut that motor out, it's getting a 3V - or maybe I'll get a couple pairs of 32v 5.4 heads and weld on two more cylinders. How hard could that be?

Seriously though, I thought about the 3v but cam phasers kind of scare me. I also wonder if the cam phaser issues are just like the spitting plugs issue. Not really an issue if you do stuff right and use the right oil.
But the 4Valves have their own set of problems. Some have even said it wasn't worth it, with all the dang problems.

Maybe you know different, - I'd have to do some studying myself.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 10:41 PM
  #25  
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Found this on another forum. - Power differences,-

1999 V10...275hp around 400 ft lbs torque (2-valve)

2000-2004 V-10...310 hp @4250 rpm, 425 ft/lb torque @3250 rpm (2-valve)

2005 up V-10...362 hp @4750 rpm, 457 ft/lb torque @3250 rpm (3-valve)

In 2000-2004 the 2V V10 got "PI" head or Performance improved that bumped up power quite a bit especially above 3k rpm. The heads increase flow quite a bit. Late production 02'-04' V10 got extra threads in the spark plug hole.

2005 Up V10 got an Extra Valve per cylinder (3 valves instead of 2) and a variable volume intake manifold, more "Header-like" exhaust manifolds and a freer flowing exhaust. (Without the crappy y-pipe like on the 00-04)

I'm sure some tuning was done to optimize the changes, but not too much.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 10:57 PM
  #26  
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I thought about the 3v but cam phasers kind of scare me.
The 3V V-10 doesn't HAVE phasers - sorry if you didn't pick up on my comment that it doesn't have VVT.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 11:16 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by glc
The 3V V-10 doesn't HAVE phasers - sorry if you didn't pick up on my comment that it doesn't have VVT.
OH! I guess I need to do more research. Thanks.
 
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Old May 1, 2013 | 10:25 AM
  #28  
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Make sure you check out the OH cams/caps. Like I mentioned before, - when you get a chance of course. Were the shavings aluminum or metal ? Did you give them the magnet test ? I read up a little bit about that engine. What I got so far is the by-pass pump sticks easily, If the by-pass pump did indeed stick, it should still be stuck.
 
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Old May 1, 2013 | 10:43 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by jbrew
Make sure you check out the OH cams/caps. Like I mentioned before, - when you get a chance of course. Were the shavings aluminum or metal ? Did you give them the magnet test ? I read up a little bit about that engine. What I got so far is the by-pass pump sticks easily, If the by-pass pump did indeed stick, it should still be stuck.
The bypass valve in the oil pump was definitely not stuck, the piston pretty much fell out of it.

I just took a magnet to the shavings and yeah, definitely aluminum.

I'm hoping to get the valve covers off today on my lunch break (I work from home). I thought I could get the timing cover off without removing them, but they don't seem to want to come off. I need to remove them eventually anyway... IIRC there are no cam bearings, its the machined aluminum surface on the head, so I don't care what it looks like under there. I'm running it! OK, I'm kind of kidding. I'll take a peek.

Does anyone have a brand preference for rod and main bearings and if so, why?
 
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Old May 1, 2013 | 11:13 AM
  #30  
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Heads wasted unfortunately, - you'll see.
 
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