Chassis Saver
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From: Ohio
Chassis Saver
I've been chipping away on some repairs to my truck, and am planning to paint much of the underbody with Chassis Saver. Does anyone know how this kind of product fares if in the future a fastener needs a torch to get it loose due to rust? Also, does anyone know what the S-8 Reducer is that Magnet Paints sells to go with Chassis Saver? Lacquer thinner? Or maybe Xylene? Thanks for your thoughts.
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I have used Chassis Saver extensively and I can only say good things about it.
The key is prep. Remove all loose rust with a DA and/or wire brush, make sure there is no grease or oil by wiping the surface with mineral spirits..... and BRUSH it on, don't spray it.
Also, it's not UV protected and will fail if used on a surface that sees sunlight unless you top coat it with primer and paint. After the Chassis Saver has been applied and is dry, it MUST be scuffed with a green scotch-brite pad before applying primer or it won't stick.
Note: Any unused portion still in the can WILL NOT be any good if you just put the lid on and come back in a day or two. Chassis Saver doesn't air dry like paint, it cures from the moisture in the air. No lie. So the key to making it last in the can is to keep air/moisture out by getting a plumbers torch and blow some propane gas into the can before sealing it up.... this expels any room air and propane doesn't have moisture in it. I do it all the time and I have had cans last 6 months or more.
Don't worry about reducer since I already said to only brush it on.
And if you get some on your skin, you have about 20 minutes to wipe it off with some mineral spirits or it will be there for at least a week no matter how hard you scrub it.
The key is prep. Remove all loose rust with a DA and/or wire brush, make sure there is no grease or oil by wiping the surface with mineral spirits..... and BRUSH it on, don't spray it.
Also, it's not UV protected and will fail if used on a surface that sees sunlight unless you top coat it with primer and paint. After the Chassis Saver has been applied and is dry, it MUST be scuffed with a green scotch-brite pad before applying primer or it won't stick.
Note: Any unused portion still in the can WILL NOT be any good if you just put the lid on and come back in a day or two. Chassis Saver doesn't air dry like paint, it cures from the moisture in the air. No lie. So the key to making it last in the can is to keep air/moisture out by getting a plumbers torch and blow some propane gas into the can before sealing it up.... this expels any room air and propane doesn't have moisture in it. I do it all the time and I have had cans last 6 months or more.
Don't worry about reducer since I already said to only brush it on.
And if you get some on your skin, you have about 20 minutes to wipe it off with some mineral spirits or it will be there for at least a week no matter how hard you scrub it.
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Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Ohio
Hey Capris Debris, how's it going? Thanks for your thoughts.
I did a small trial session with the Chassis Saver before my initial post; I painted my steering knuckles and splash shields. I had the rotors off to replace them and figured I'd paint the knuckles and shields before putting the new rotors on. I also figured it would give me a chance to learn something and improve how I do things before I do the rest.
I did brush the paint. I think spraying that stuff would be a disaster. I found it to be kind of thick, though, that's why I was asking about the reducer. I had trouble getting a thin coat. It felt like I was brushing honey. I thinned it some with lacquer thinner, and that helped, but the lacquer thinner evaporates so fast, it would quickly thicken back up. What kind of brushes do you use? I tried a couple of cheap foam brushes but think something firmer might be better.
I like the idea with the propane. I'll do that next time I open the can. What I did this time was float some lacquer thinner on top of the paint before closing the can. I like the propane idea better.
Your underbody work is so detailed and perfect looking, I don't see any paint in the seams between parts; are you able to achieve that with the parts assembled, or do you do most of your painting with the parts disassembled?
I did a small trial session with the Chassis Saver before my initial post; I painted my steering knuckles and splash shields. I had the rotors off to replace them and figured I'd paint the knuckles and shields before putting the new rotors on. I also figured it would give me a chance to learn something and improve how I do things before I do the rest.
I did brush the paint. I think spraying that stuff would be a disaster. I found it to be kind of thick, though, that's why I was asking about the reducer. I had trouble getting a thin coat. It felt like I was brushing honey. I thinned it some with lacquer thinner, and that helped, but the lacquer thinner evaporates so fast, it would quickly thicken back up. What kind of brushes do you use? I tried a couple of cheap foam brushes but think something firmer might be better.
I like the idea with the propane. I'll do that next time I open the can. What I did this time was float some lacquer thinner on top of the paint before closing the can. I like the propane idea better.
Your underbody work is so detailed and perfect looking, I don't see any paint in the seams between parts; are you able to achieve that with the parts assembled, or do you do most of your painting with the parts disassembled?