~dp

 

~ddp

 

Metalguy, -How many miles on that 99?

 

if you get them locally at autozone, you could "try" the coil packs and see if that is what the problem is....

 

Here's a question I've been meaning to ask---would the noise made by an exhaust leak come and go? Like this noise happens when you initiate acceleration after coasting a bit; and sometimes too when you just let off the gas. I'm not sure if that comes through in that video---there I was pretty much just revving it a little to make it happen. There's a point in 3rd gear where if you're cruising and holding the gas steady, it will make the noise constantly. Otherwise it always comes and goes.

Thanks for the info., and for the heads up on the plugs. I do in fact believe that plugs are important. I actually thought about switching to Motorcraft when I bought the Autolites; ultimately decided to stick with what was already there. Looks like I'll be getting some new plugs. I doubt the place I got the Autolites from will take them back; I can't imagine they'd accept plugs back that have anti-seize on them. And no, the guy who waited on me didn't seem to know anything about my truck; he just scrolled through stuff on his puter. I'm not sure the last lesson I learned the easy way.

I don't know if the right side manifold is tight. I'm sure it's not far behind the lefthand manifold. I'm sure it's just as rusty. At Rock Auto the LH manifold is about $75, and the righthand is about $55.

What tool do you like for bending brake lines? I already have a flaring kit. I did an "emergency" brake-line-ectomy some time back in a parking lot. I just bent it by hand then; it worked ok, but it looked like a fifth grader did it. No offense to fifth graders.

I'm still planning to get out tonight to do the exhaust leak check with soapy water. But I just finished manually relocating and stacking a cord of wood. I'm pretty sure I need a beer.

Sharpies aren't as permanent as they need to be to replace hair anyway. Chia seed works much better.

 

Almost forgot. It's about 145,000 miles on the truck.

 

Those kinds of noises seem to come from the,-

1 Converter heat shields.
2 Could be anything not tight on the exhaust.
3 Something in the air filter box.
4 The incorrect PCV valve is good for strange noises as well. You have to run a Motorcraft valve because NO ONE makes a valve with the correct margins other than Motorcraft.
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Yeah, the right plugs is a must have. Chances are, the person before you was probably having issues with those Autolites and just didn't know it. It COULD NOT have been running right. Before installing the new plugs, soak a rag in lacquer thinner and cram it down into the plug chamber threads. Try to clean all that anti seize from the threads and don't use it for this plug install. Generally it's a good idea, but not with these heads. These are 4 thread heads and the anti seize has an adverse effect. Plugs tend to worm their way back out again on their own. You'll never have a problem removing them from the chamber installing dry. You will not gall the chamber threads installing dry. These chamber threads hold their own up to 100' lbs believe or not. Torque = 28'lbs or at between 1/4 to 1/2 turn after seat. The 28' lbs is critical. If you don't use a torque wrench, just keep that 28' lbs in mind went tightening, -so you don't end up blowing one out in the future. Unfortunately, it happens a lot when this regimen isn't followed. Anyway, yeah, they have to go in dry.
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I use a bender found in the Ridgid plumbing isle @ Home Depot. Works really well, you can get a cheap break line bender just about anywhere automotive. I also have a roller type bender that comes with different sized wheels. Just a cheap kit. Some flaring kits come with benders as well. I favor the Ridgid bender, -it's not even for brake lines. I think it's for bending ice maker supply lines lol.

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Drink beer, then make some exhaust bubbles. Sounds like a party to me.

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Oh yeah, -almost forgot about the Chia.

Cha Cha Chia Pet, Chia Pet...

Great! Now I'm going to be whistling that one the rest of the night

Thanks for that.

 

Well, I would have done the exhaust test, but I wasn't able to remove that liner from the wheel well. Although I did manage to make a small crack in it. Is there some way you have to tug or fold that thing to get it to pop out? I double checked to make sure no fasteners were left---there were more than I'd initially thought. They're all out. I hadn't anticipated that being such a pain. Nothing like getting humbled by a 14 year old piece of plastic.

Thanks for the info about the never seize. Here I was thinking the aluminum and steel might react badly together. That's good to know. When you said 28 lbs is critical, is it that most people under-tighten them, or over-tighten them?

They need a symbol for Chia Hair that shows someone sitting in a window; because you have to sit in the window a little bit each day for it to grow.

 

Did it do this before or after you did the plug change? Maybe there was dirt that fell in and you didn't get it tight?

 

The factory torque spec for the plugs is 15 ft/lb, which is too loose.

Don't worry about lack of antiseize with MOTORCRAFT plugs, the threads are nickel-plated to eliminate the dissimilar metal issue.

 

Sometimes the wheel liners can be wedged, but you shouldn't have to wrestle with it to much. It's sort of tucked into the fender arch flange. It probably takes about 8 minutes to remove one considering the pushpins.

Now you have one or two push pins hiding at the very front of the wheel well arch. You have one screw hiding under the bottom of the fender toward the front of the rocker panel. You have to lay on ground and look up where the rocker panel and lower fender meet to see it. Sometimes it's corroded and you have to scratch around to find it. If you miss that one, it will be a PITA to jar the wheel well loose.

They make a tool to remove those Push Pins, I never got around to buying one. It's screwdriver handled pry bar of sorts. Anyway, -I use a small Stanley pry bar at first then remove them the rest of the way a w/90* pre-bent needle nosers. I just rip them out. Like I said, they're easily replaced and cheap up at the store, if they don't survive.

But, I think you might be missing one or two.

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Yeah, it's like glc posted above. The nickle plug threads solves the dissimilar metals corrosion issues. All Motorcraft plugs are nickle coated. If fact, that should be standard for most name brand plugs. They use to just use a anodized coating on steel threads. Except Federal Mogul Champion plugs, which use nothing that I'm aware of. Yes the reason for blow-out is under torquing them. You don't want to over torque them either. You can separate the ceramic plug seal if you do. That's why a torque wrench is really choice if it's difficult for one to judge torque.

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I thought Chia did have a symbol, yea, Mr T

 

Here's what those push pin pullers look like, -

https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...Fh1zRs#imgrc=_

Look at the pry bar types. That's the one I'm referring to.

 

BTW- I looked thru those Dorman manifold kits on eBay last night. All were about the same for the drivers side, 70-75 bucks. Passenger side was cheaper of course. Dorman offers a combo kit, both manifolds w/hardware for about $133. You can even purchase the EGR fitting separate now. Might not seem like a big deal now, -it use to be. Not to long ago, I searched and searched and could not find ANY parts like that anywhere. Not even the dealer. Had to go to the bone yard if you wanted something like that. If fact, I about resorted to that, until someone on this site went to the scrapyard and grabbed the parts I was looking for and sent them my way. Now a days, it's no problem finding them and those kits make it easy.

Another thing, - Every kit I looked at last night was FREE shipping.

 

Mr. T wouldn't have any trouble getting that wheel well liner out, would he. I need to be more like Mr. T. There must be a fastener still in there somewhere, or something stuck to the back side of it. I could shift it around and stuff; but I sure couldn't move it enough to actually re-move it. At least now I know it shouldn't be that hard; it helps to know what is normal.

I'll get on ebay and look for that left/right manifold kit. I put together an order on Amazon, and even with the free shipping, the prices were enough higher that it still cost more than Rock Auto and their high shipping.

Thanks for the link to the pry bars for the push pins. I actually have a small pry bar a lot like those. It basically looks like a screwdriver, only the blade is forked and bent for prying. I've had it for ages. Don't even remember why I originally got it. But I was using it last night to pull those push pins. Made it super easy.

Getting that anti-seize out of the spark plug holes is going to be ... fun. Probably half of the holes I could barely get my fingers to. Would there be any harm in spraying a solvent in there to dissolve the stuff and let it run down into the cylinder? Or would that harm the piston or cylinder? It a solvent would be ok, what solvent would be best? Brake or carb cleaner? If it needs wiped out, I'll do it; I'm just trying to think of what would be easiest.

I'm glad I wasn't drinking coffee when I scrolled down and spied your Mr. T. reference. I'd need a lot of chia seed to grow a mohawk like that; my chances would be much better of growing a ... reverse mohawk.

 

Yea, just attempt to clean those threads. You can probably get them clean enough by wrapping a rag around a long bolt dampened in some kind grease cutting chemical. U-know, a bolt smaller in diameter, but long enough with threads that will somewhat clean the chamber threads. That should make it fast an easy. Doesn't have to be perfect of course, but I'd attempt it anyway. I wouldn't dump anything in the plug chamber itself. A rag with the end soaked with carb cleaner would make quick work of it, - specially if you have the perfect long bolt or something laying around.

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I was thinking earlier, in your position, -with the way in which you received the vehicle, I may have done a compression test right off. That can tell you if the engine is worth saving. I'm just mentioning that because you never know what's it's been thru in the past. You just don't the majority of the time. That said, these engines are very resilient and can take quite allot of abuse. It's easy to assume that they're okay, that being the case.
If by chance it is bad, what you've invested can easily be transferred to another, -worse case scenario. Compression testing procedure is my sig at the bottom, if you decide to do so at some point in time.

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Yeah, watch that coffee, I've went thru quite a few keyboards myself, thanks to some of the stuff I've seen here lol. Two in the same week on one occasion.

Oh yeah, right! You don't want to get too carried away with that Chia juice. Apparently, our president had an allergic reaction once and it kept growing back @ mind altering speeds. Once this happened on his pedestal making some sort of speech, -