You need a good crescent to get on that EGR nut and a cheater bar. Like one made by Channel lock or DeWalt. The DeWalts are better IMO. The nut will loosen just like that, then spin off with your fingers. The cheater is necessary. Soaking WILL NOT work here.

You didn't test or answer questions. I gave you some easy ones, try to do those as they will help me help you determine the issue (s).

Yes, it an exhaust leak, I'm sure of it. They can sound exactly like metal parts clanging around. Very much so and can fool yuh. How you determine where it's leaking, - use a shop vac in blower mode/ cram it up your tail pipe/ use dish soap/water mix in a spray bottle. Turn vac on and squirt any area in question. Mr bubbles will appear pointing you to the leak. Simple and very accurate way to find any and all leaks.

If the problem isn't the EGR valve, then you need to change the coils. But you have to determine a few things first so that you not just throwing parts at it. I can tell yuh where to get what you need, the cheapest way, -once the determination is finished.

BTW- Exhaust cause bad coil ? Nope. Like I said before, you have two unrelated problems.

 

Right now I'm thinking you need a doorman manifold with an EGR adapter kit. They come with. And possibly a set of coils/wires and plugs, all wouldn't be a bad idea if their old.

But you have to check out the EGR first. Thoroughly.

 

Sorry, I forgot to answer your question about the check engine light. It has not come on at all. I did that suction test on the EGR valve, and it did indeed nearly stall out of the truck. I got that big nut at the rear loose; but I'm having trouble with the smaller one at the front, so I haven't been able to actually remove the valve yet to inspect its interior. That front nut feels spongy, like I'm going to twist it off. So I put some PB Blaster on it to let it soak. I haven't done the soapy water test yet on the exhaust. Am I forgetting anything?

Say the sound in the video is an exhaust leak, what do you suppose is the thumping I heard while driving? It happened just a few times. Someone earlier mentioned the transmission mounts. Someone else suggested I ask jbrew about that in greater detail. I think I need to look at those mounts more closely. That thumping sound did not sound like it was coming from the engine. Honestly I don't know what that sound from the engine would be except for something hitting something else, and I think the engine is running to well for that to have been the case. Sounded more like something is loose. Which was why I was wondering earlier about the flywheel. Each time that thump occurred, I had just let out the clutch and was accelerating through the lower range of the next higher gear. But it could also be the transmission mounts.

Thanks for your help. I swear, sometimes the hardest part of fixing something is figuring out what exactly needs fixed.

 

Scanner - You should scan the KAM (KeepAliveMemory) regardless of a CEL. If you haven't cleared the KAM recently (battery disconnect), you could very well have a DTC logged. The CEL DOES NOT need to be illuminated to have a code in memory. You can purchase your own scanner if you want for 50-90 bucks or even cheaper at Harbor Freight. With a scanner, it may tell you WHICH coil or bank that's causing the problems. But, if you've disconnected the battery lately, you erased all clues to the problems. Problem DTC's can come right back, it's just that it may take some time if they were erased recently.

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EGR - Yeah, don't force the 10mm nut or bolts, they WILL break if corroded inside. If you don't have the tools on hand to fix that, you'll need to buy some. You need heat (propane or MAP) and a cordless impact to get them out successfully. You've probably already twisted it a bit, so I'd just leave it alone. Instead, with the big pipe nut off the side of the valve, see if you can move the pipe out of the way enough so that you can see inside the valve. Your looking to see if it's shut all the way like it should be. Other than that, you'll have to remove the 4 8mm bolts and disconnect everything to inspect the inside of the valve. It probably is since the suck test went easy. Even so, you have to confirm otherwise anything else you do to determine the problem may be done in vane.

Once the valve is confirmed shut and it's passed the suck test, you check the EVR and green line while it's running @ idle. Just pull the green line while it's running and listen for any difference in idle. Put your finger over the green line and check for vacuum being created. They're should be next to none @ idle and idle shouldn't change removing the line from the EGR valve.
That confirms basic EVR operation.

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Trans Mount - There's just one right under the center of the trans between the cross-member and trans. These only last to a little over 100,000 miles. When they wear out, the trans sinks pulling the exhaust Y down with it. This stresses the rear exhaust manifold bolts and eventually breaks them off or loosens them first then they break. That's been big problem with these trucks for many years and most don't know why the manifold studs break. This is why. Also, it's not the studs that corrode at first. It's the steel nuts on the part stainless studs that causes both to eventually corrode. The nuts corrode so bad, they can infect the studs. Sometimes the studs loosen from a bad trans mount and with the added vibration and pressure, it may start chopping away at the studs between the flange and head. This also accelerates corrosion in that area.

A new trans mount will set the exhaust Y at the correct angle equalizing force/pressure correctly upon the entire manifold vs all that pressure and drive-line vibration at just the rear studs.

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Trans Thump - I'm not sure about your thumping problem. Although I've witnessed and heard about it in the past. So I know what you mean, I don't know what exactly causes that with a standard type trans. You may want to search out "trans thump" and causes of. There has to be something on that. It may have to do with the mount, but I'm not sure about that one.

 

I guess I should add this. Some may wonder, -how does the trans mount even relate to the exhaust Y?
Well they're tied together thru a hanger plate just above the trans mount. I documented this since it was occurring with many of these model year 1/2 tons.

Here's a bad mount and bad exhaust hanger plate. Nothing left of the mount and if you look close, so much pressure was put on the hanger plate that cracked it. I welded up the plate and replaced the mount. After doing so, the Y lined right up with the exhaust manifolds. Compared to the new below,you can see how material buffer was missing from the old. If I recall, this vehicle had about 150,000 miles on it. Think it was a 2000 model year.



New trans mount, I believe they're around $27. They might be a little more. Easy to replace.

 

Well, I got the EGR valve off. I did indeed use a torch and a cordless impact driver; I already own them. Now that I can see inside the valve, it's not clear to me how it would look if it was closed; I don't even see a diaphragm of any kind to be closed; just two openings and two passageways; nothing closed that I can see. Does this signify the valve is stuck open? The suction test worked, though. There is some carbon buildup, but it isn't that bad. Mainly the valve seems rusted.

I'd like to remove the driver's side wheel well guard so I can see the manifold when doing the leak test on the exhaust; but it's got a plastic screw of some kind at either end, and they don't seem to want to simply pry out like others have in other locations on the truck. I don't want to break something, so I quit prying. But is that how they come out? Or is there something else to them? It almost feels like there's some adhesive in there.

I also tried prying the transmission up away from its mount like my shop manual says to do to test the mount; it wouldn't budge; the crossmember actually flexed a little, but that was all. That still seems to me like it could be a culprit, though---I mean, the noise is coming from the rear of the engine, and that thumping sound was something. Do fly plates or clutch plates ever make sounds like that? It was basically a clunk.

I didn't think to NOT disconnect the negative electrode to the battery, so it was one of the first things I did when I started working on stuff. I'm going to beat this horse here because I'm annoyed I did that. I'm sure if there were any codes in there, they're gone now. I didn't know it would store codes like that. I also don't have a computer reader.

Thanks for your thoughts and information. This is very helpful.

 

the plastic screws are a booger, but will come out. i take mine out on constant basis and can do so with ease... but i've done it a 100 times

 

What ever you do don't blow compressed air into the throttle body side that valve to try to clean it. Also, don't use ANY chemical cleaners it. You'll compromise the diaphragm, like blow it up lol. Use that scrap piece of hose you used for the suck test and watch inside the valve at the same time. You'll see it open and close.

Also, you can blow in the EGR pipe connect side to determine if the valve is open, leaking or whatnot, if you can't tell by looking at it. Your going to have smash the valve against your face to get an air tight seal, then blow. Once you've finished, wash that big black carbon ring off that's circling your smoocher. Or leave it lol.

 

BTW, - The diaphragm is at the very top of the saucer, just under where the green line connects to the saucer stem. The valve works sort of like a gate valve, only air/vacuum and spring.

 

Yea, I don't recall plastic screws..Ever. It's just Ford push pins and 6 or 7mm screws for the wheel wells. Some are 8mm, - one or the other.

Just pry the push pins out, they usually will survive. If not, all third party auto suppliers have them. Usually hanging on a rack in a package of 6 or 12 for a couple bucks. I don't know about any screw type plastic pins down there. I know there's some under the hood like that.

 

I can't go to work today because Fast Orange won't get that black ring off from around my mouth.

I'll get the EGR back on after work today and test the EVR. I'll also do the soap test on the exhaust. I didn't do anything to the EGR at all; the carbon in it is nothing but a thin layer around the walls. Do you just reuse the old gasket? Or, should I think about replacing the EGR. Or is there really no advantage to replacing it if it isn't flat out broken?

Where is the best place to buy coils and wires and stuff? I'm gonna wait to see how the exhaust stuff goes; it looks like I may need a manifold too. I also happened to see a couple of brake lines down there that look like they could snap if i looked at them too hard. This truck is going to need some work to get it squared away. This forum is an unbelievable resource. I owe you guys a beer.

 

Do you have coils or coil on plugs? i got mine from RockAuto and ebay. also, while you're under, pull your spark plugs and check them. early detonation and pinging can easily be seen by checking your plugs

 

Nope, - make no sense to replace it now. I don't think a good one is very cheap. Besides, - you have now confirmed that your valve is good and fully operational, - IF it has past tests so far. Yeah, the valve check is done.

The gasket is a toss-up. Is it good ? What I do if it's marginal or even new, use a thin layer of Permatex Black on both sides bolting her back together. You can get that stuff anywhere and it's good to have on hand. Since your going to be working on the exhaust later, just purchase a tube of Permatex Gold w/copper. You'll need that specifically for the exhaust and it can be used in place of the P- Black. You can buy the two if you want, - or save a little and just go with the gold. Generally, the black is for the colder joint (although there is HH black as well) and the red (w/copper) is for heated joints (exhaust, for manifold ball and possibly manifold gaskets, depends on gasket type). It's like 6-9 bucks a tube and it goes a long way. New gaskets are always the best route of course, but you can get away without them, if the existing is in one piece.
Rock Auto. Use only Motorcraft wires and Plugs. Coil Packs.- With Coil Packs, choice would be Motorcraft, but I haven't heard anything bad about other brands as far as coil packs. Before you purchase an off brand at a cheaper price, google it first. Just to make sure there hasn't been any issues. Motorcrafts are most likely pricey. I might even go to eBay for those.

Rock Auto should have a Dorman manifold kit. I'm not sure if that includes gaskets. But you want it to include the EGR fitting and exhaust pipe flange studs. You'll have to look at what they offer. Get new studs and nuts a complete kit if you can. Dorman is very reasonable on price and it would absolutely suck if they weren't around. The dealership would have you reaching deep in your pockets for that stuff.

Sometimes eBay or Amazon can't be beat for the same thing. With Rock Auto, keep a good eye on their shipping charges. You have to do a little work for the best deal.. For instance, you can create a shopping list over at rock auto at a pretty good price, -after shipping, it's just okay. Take that list over to eBay or Amazon and get the same price but FREE shipping on the lot. It changes to much to tell you exactly where to go. That's how I do it lol.

Brake lines, - Ford uses some really cheap parts on the brake systems. Their rubber brake hoses are the worst. I gutted everything and started from scratch lol. It wasn't bad at all on price if you know what to get and can bend up/make your own lines. You'll have to tell me exactly what you want to do. Otherwise I'll write a damn book lol.

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Take a black marker, color in a upside-down triangle at the bottom of the circle, uknow, - for a fubared Samari effect. Add in a pair of dark sun glasses, it might look a little more natural, - may even look cool ? Iduno..

 

The EGR gasket is actually still stuck to the fixture the valve was fastened to. It appears to be in decent shape. None of it came off on the valve. I think I'll do as you suggest and use some sealant there.

Honestly, I haven't been real clear on what "coil on plug" means. Or COP; I assume they are the same thing? Lucky 13, my truck doesn't have a distributor cap; it has a separate coil pack for each side of the engine. I understand how a distributor cap works; not so much the coil pack. I don't really understand why there are two separate ones.

I actually changed the plugs about a week and a half ago; I reused the old wires. I was trying to save money. I should probably just replace them. I used Autolite platinum plugs because that was what was there already. Do you think those will be ok?

Is this here the kind of manifold kit you mean? Looks like you have to buy the hardware that secures the manifold to the block separately. I can't imagine you can reuse the existing bolts. Also, by "left", they mean the driver's side, correct?

My brake lines look terrible. I can see that one already has been replaced, the one that runs across the front to the passenger side caliper. I would like to fix the rest before they give out. I'm sure it won't be long before they do. Basically, all but the replaced one look like chit. Is replacing brake lines as straightforward as replacing them and bleeding the system, or do you have to tweak and adjust anything to ensure the brakes are all applied equally? I can see how replacing the lines could change some of that. But maybe I'm overthinking it.

An EGR valve fu-man-chu, I like that. Heck, I might even use it to fill in some thin spots up top. Thus far I've always used Sharpie, but I don't particularly care for the way it smells.

 

COP, Coil On Plug - Take that literally. You have one coil that mounts on top of the plug. There's 8 of them, one per cylinder. You don't have this system of your 99. This system doesn't use spark plug wires. The 2000's had them, -most of them anyway.

You have Coil Packs. Take that literally as well. Each of your two coils run a pack of cylinders. A 4 pack per coil. This system incorporates plug wires to connect to the plugs.

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NOPE! Can't use Autolites and have ANYTHING good come from that. The engine will NEVER run right. Autolites heat up and misfire. The app/ap 103's and 104's are almost the worst plug to use in this generation modular motor. It's the 2nd worse choice that should be cross referenced with these engines. The #1 worst choice is Bosch. Those heat up as well, but when they do, they fall apart inside the cylinder while the engine is running.

That's one thing I won't do. Troubleshoot an engine running the wrong plugs. It doesn't make sense, does it?

There's ONLY three brands to use in that engine that meet or exceed Ford spec. Those are, -

Motorcraft
Denso Iridium's
NGK

If you want a little upgrade, run the "Fine Wire Denso Iridium's" That's my personal choice anyway. NGK has fine wire plugs as well for your engine. They are all around the same price. But any of those 3 will work.

That's it for your engine. So get that junk out of there and return them if you can. Whom ever sold you those don't know dirt about these engines or they would of informed you. Trust me, the right plugs can make a very noticeable difference.

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Yes, that's the manifold kit I'm referring too.

How much is that now? Shouldn't be too bad. BTW, -hows the passenger side, is it tight? That's a little different if it is. Usually the passenger side will break and sheer before the drivers side does. Keep an eye on them if you replace that trans mount. That alone could snap them if they're about there anyway.

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Yeah, your over thinking a bit on the brake lines. No special adjustments needed. You really should at least replace the two front brake hoses. They break down on the inside and restrict fluid to the calipers. BAD! - Two choices on the hard line. You can purchase a coil of hard line, from 6' -26'. I believe it's 3/16. Then with a flanging kit (they're cheap), just make your own. Other than that, you purchase a direct fit line from somewhere. I replaced all of mine, -took about 30' of hardline for everything.

Yeah, those Sharpies stink. It takes awhile to dry as well and you might smudge it without noticing. Someone may point that out to you before you get to far, if your lucky. I wouldn't say a thing.

Also using those around smoochster, it may soak thru. If you think the smell is bad, try tasting it!