Help! cylinder 3 misfire
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Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 23
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From: Wi****a Kansas
Hey guys, thanks for the replies! I was afraid you all had given up on me.
Bluegrass, I took your advice and pumped some air in that cylinder and it just rushed out of the intake manifold through the pcv hose. That's when I knew the head had to come off. I really appreciate all of your help and knowledge for those of us who are not so well versed on these engines. The coolant line looks fine but I am going to replace the two O rings that seal it up to the water pump. It doesn't look like it has ever leaked coolant in that area. I printed the write up on how to get the timing chains back on correctly. It sounds easy enough and I can still clearly see the white marks on the chains. One end has one link marked and the other has two links marked.
Jet, I'm going to take the head to a shop tomorrow and see what he can do for me. I would like to have the peace of mind that it is fixed correctly after all this.
I have another question about the injectors. What is the best way to store them while they are out of the fuel rail so the o rings don't dry up? Should I put anything on them like wd 40 or light oil?
Thanks guys. I don't know what I'd do without help
Bluegrass, I took your advice and pumped some air in that cylinder and it just rushed out of the intake manifold through the pcv hose. That's when I knew the head had to come off. I really appreciate all of your help and knowledge for those of us who are not so well versed on these engines. The coolant line looks fine but I am going to replace the two O rings that seal it up to the water pump. It doesn't look like it has ever leaked coolant in that area. I printed the write up on how to get the timing chains back on correctly. It sounds easy enough and I can still clearly see the white marks on the chains. One end has one link marked and the other has two links marked.
Jet, I'm going to take the head to a shop tomorrow and see what he can do for me. I would like to have the peace of mind that it is fixed correctly after all this.
I have another question about the injectors. What is the best way to store them while they are out of the fuel rail so the o rings don't dry up? Should I put anything on them like wd 40 or light oil?
Thanks guys. I don't know what I'd do without help
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 5,522
Likes: 6
From: Utah
Hey guys, thanks for the replies! I was afraid you all had given up on me.
Bluegrass, I took your advice and pumped some air in that cylinder and it just rushed out of the intake manifold through the pcv hose. That's when I knew the head had to come off. I really appreciate all of your help and knowledge for those of us who are not so well versed on these engines. The coolant line looks fine but I am going to replace the two O rings that seal it up to the water pump. It doesn't look like it has ever leaked coolant in that area. I printed the write up on how to get the timing chains back on correctly. It sounds easy enough and I can still clearly see the white marks on the chains. One end has one link marked and the other has two links marked.
Jet, I'm going to take the head to a shop tomorrow and see what he can do for me. I would like to have the peace of mind that it is fixed correctly after all this.
I have another question about the injectors. What is the best way to store them while they are out of the fuel rail so the o rings don't dry up? Should I put anything on them like wd 40 or light oil?
Thanks guys. I don't know what I'd do without help
Bluegrass, I took your advice and pumped some air in that cylinder and it just rushed out of the intake manifold through the pcv hose. That's when I knew the head had to come off. I really appreciate all of your help and knowledge for those of us who are not so well versed on these engines. The coolant line looks fine but I am going to replace the two O rings that seal it up to the water pump. It doesn't look like it has ever leaked coolant in that area. I printed the write up on how to get the timing chains back on correctly. It sounds easy enough and I can still clearly see the white marks on the chains. One end has one link marked and the other has two links marked.
Jet, I'm going to take the head to a shop tomorrow and see what he can do for me. I would like to have the peace of mind that it is fixed correctly after all this.
I have another question about the injectors. What is the best way to store them while they are out of the fuel rail so the o rings don't dry up? Should I put anything on them like wd 40 or light oil?
Thanks guys. I don't know what I'd do without help
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Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 23
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From: Wi****a Kansas
The repair manual I have shows that the metal coolant line running from the back of the water pump to the heater core has a piece of rubber hose connecting it to the water pump. Mine is all metal with 2 o rings to seal it up. Does anyone know it the rubber "splice" is a good way to go? That sure would make putting the head back on easier. I could have the tube already bolted to the back of the head and not have to try to get between the head and the firewall on reassembly.
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Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 23
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From: Wi****a Kansas
Ok guys. I have the rebuilt head back on and the truck is almost ready to be cranked over. Since I had the head off and the timing chains/gears off should I crank it without the fuel pump fuse so it can pump some oil before the thing fires up? I ruined the harmonic balancer because I'm an idiot so that's my hold up right now. It should be here tomorrow morning and then it just needs the radiator and antifreeze. I just don't want to screw something up because of lack of lubrication.