97 f150 xlt reg cab 4x4 auto trans with manual 4x4 shifter

Just wanna get some hints or tips on the installation , like extra steps or things I can skip, I'm only doin a 2 inch bl from zone offroad , good product and comes with ALL bracketry, so please don't tell me to do a 3 inch I'm not gonna regret it, I've installed a bl on a Chevy so I'm comfortable doin one just wanna know about the trans link bracket, and steering linkage bracket, can I just not do it?, and the fuel filler hose, also what happens with the manual 4x4 shifter?
Anyway lots of ?s but all help is appreciated and Thanx

Btw I have a 5 inch susp lift with 325 80 16 and NO rubbing but I want some more clearance, (only 2 inches).

 

just check to see if you have any rust on the box supports first... you will need an extension or make one for the 5 speed and manual shifter, we didnt add an extension to our 90 steering column.

 

You will have to add the trans and steering linkage bracket. I don't see why you'd want to skip that? They are probably the quickest things in the kit to install. Also, the fuel filler will have to be extended as well. Not sure what all comes in the zone kit, but my P.A. came with all of the brackets and extensions needed to do it. Also, be sure to have an impact. It makes things go so much quicker.

 

Ok. . I was just worried about puttin a linkage on my steering. . We skipped it on my buddy's 03 Chevy and its been fine for over two years now. . So I'll need to make a bracket for the transfer case shifter?

 

Make sure you have an angle grinder with a cut off wheel! and dont be suprised if the front fender bolts dont come out, I had to cut them and the lower portion of the mount just a little bit to get the bolt out, as well as the heads of the box bolts. I didnt soak mine for much more then a few nights 1 week before I started tho.

 

Ok Thanx. . My truck has no rust and all the bolts I can get to loosen up easy enough. . What about removing the radiator? I believe I can skip that

 

I'm still not impressed with the steering extension on mine. There is some slight play in my steering wheel because of it, nothing major just enough to annoy the crap out of you.

There was no need to remove the radiator or fan shroud on mine.

 

I installed my zone 3 in body without taking the radiator out, but you would have lots my room if you do take it out.

-front core bolts will more then likely break, happened to me. Came up with a some what confusing but easy way to get them.
-Big channel lock is must to hold cab bushings when removing body bolts I only needed it on the front two though

overall the zone kit for me turned out okay. I'd go online and find P.A's instructions too, theirs are more clear if you can't figure something out

I did mine in about 2 and half days with just me and the GF(lol thats right)

 

Poor mans lift. - Just F's up your truck in the long run. But hey, I've done it in the past myself. Twice! - Even wrapped Budweiser cans around the blocks... It was cool at the time.

Anyway, A body lift on your particular truck will make it look cheap and rigged. There will be too much frame exposure,- along with your suspension lft. You might not like it as much.

IMO, -they look much better and cleaner w/as much frame coverage as possible. Besides, it sucks washing and painting the frame all the time.

 

How does it mess it up in the long run? . . I just like the idea of having the body a little off the frame so I can work on the truck more easily, I also don't like a ton of frame showin that's why I only want the 2 inch. . . What 2 core bolts are you talkin about rath150?

 

I've seen many body movement issues, linkage issues, steering related problems, core support issues. You can't run any professional baja or any off road series events w/BL for safety reasons. Guys with the bog trucks, -whom have either built they're truck for this purpose, or register they're own personal vehicle have learned these lessons allot faster then most lol. Even if you incorporate the best poly bushings, there's just to much shift, - they loosen, bolts bend and they'll wear right into the heavier cabs. I have seen them blown thru the cab MANY times. Happens allot @ Silver lake, running the dunes and going for a little air.

I guess if you primadona your ride or just drive around from car-wash to car-wash keeping it pretty, adverse effects aren't going to happen right away. Unless you fubared the install. They will tho, eventually.

That's enough for now , there's more for sure. Really, just think about it, your lifting all that body weight off the frame and resting it on little tiny blocks in comparison. The body SHOULD be as secure to the frame as much as possible. It takes away far to much of it's design integrity. Creates a VERY weak link anyway.

Suspension lifts are different and MUCH better because they're a solid design. Well, most of them. They've come along way tho.

If your dead set on doing this, just use the best parts possible at the mounts. The better the bushings, = better ride and will keep things secure longer. Less squeaks as well lol.

 

Yeah I understand the problems with body lifts. . . My truck is no Baja racer and I never play in the mud. . It's mostly just a weekend night truck and solely for looks. . I feel like tons of people have 3 inch bls w/out problems and I only am going 2 inches

 

If you can find stock moulded running boards you cant see the frame with a 3 inch.

 

ive got some stock moulded running boards if you really want them... :whistler: but like brew said, they have a lot of shake. we have a 3 inch bl on or 90, and just idling you can feel the cab moving... I have officially decided not to bl my truck. (it goes places it shouldnt) but if its a weekend go and drive the town truck i dont see an issue, but you have a lifted truck, there are the temptations to go play in the mud, on trails, or go climbing.

 

It would be the 2 very front body mounts under the core support.
the extra room is a BIG plus IMO for like exhaust work or anything in the engine bay