Did you hit your head or something?

Well, I hope you know your going to need a tune for all that new found power.

 

Well, if your serious, you seriously need to re-think it. You don't have to search really. I don't know why someone would do this ? Oh yea looks, but hell, you can paint the steel one. They look good flat black or even with a satin finish.

Anyway, - why do the F250's and 1 tons all have steel drives shafts ? It's not in case they hit something lol. It's axle wrap and or stress. That will snap a shaft in a heartbeat. Your running over sized tires, and if you pull anything, your going to stress it more. Traction bars won't help the shaft much either. Yes, it WILL break, trust me. So will the steel shafts. I've seen more broken steel shafts than aluminum. That's only because the steel shafts are on the 4x4's that get abused. Plus, I've only seen broken shafts on the 2004 + models for some reason and it's usually the front drive shaft. They break in the middle lol.

A buddy of mine makes them and supplies auto suppliers all over, like Napa, O'Riely's, Carquest, to name a few (he was at my little party last weekend lol). The guy knows all the Ford part numbers by heart. - Is that ate up or what? Anyway, he has mentioned before that the Ford steel shafts are much stronger. Plus, - Ford uses solid greaseless universals and you can purchase shafts with this type of universals. What makes the greaseless universals so much better than than the greasable type is that all greasable universals have a hollow channel thru the middle for grease distribution. Where as the greaseless universals do not. These are sealed universals, NO channel and therefore solid.

Just thought I'd point a few things out. Figured it might help. Anything with real torque and HP will have steel shafts over aluminum. If you go aluminum with those big tires and especially if you tow anything, -I suggest you baby it. They WILL break before a steel one would.

I had asked the guy I know about re-balancing my shafts in the past, -and replacing the universals. He said that he has so many of those shafts, - just come down and pick up a new set from his shop. It will be MUCH cheaper. He mentioned that again last weekend. I think he's going to try to give me a set. (?) -Crap iduno, I should go find out tho lol.

Well, good luck, hope this helps a little.

 

Whats the weight difference between the AL shaft and Steel? I dont think rotational intertia really makes a difference when its only like 6 inches-ish diameter. If your concern is weight and MPG this is not the place to look IMHO. Just get a steel shaft and have it chromed

The answer to that question is definitely yes...

 

OK, you've convinced me. However Parn, I'll have to say I disagree. Rotating masss is rotating mass and it all adds up. Rotating mass is the best weight to get rid of, regardless of amount, and rotating mass will free up more effective HP than any other weight reduction by a long shot. Pound for pound, one of the best performance mods you can make.

 

Not sure what's going on here, something smart.. -IF there's much weight difference between the two at all. The Aluminum shafts are quite a bit larger in diameter than the steel shafts. In case it hasn't been mentioned yet.


Are you getting lippy mister ? That's a little too pee-madonna for my taste. It's been done tho, many times. On the flip-side,-I still can't recall anyone wanting actually wanting an aluminum shaft.

Thanks! Yea, he was under suspicion,- I pointed this out while he was rain manning the numbers off. It was definitely good for a laugh, at the time anyway. Thanks for confirmation.

 

If I haven't broken an aluminum drive shaft most guys on here wont. I've break torqued the crap out of my truck. I've got tires 2 sizes larger than larger than factory. I've bagged the crap out of it while pulling a 7000lb camper. There really isn't much I haven't done abuse wise to my poor old truck.

 

If the 7700 series came with an aluminum rear drive shaft (factory original). I take back everything I said about them being weak! Ford WOULD NOT have that shaft on the 7700 series if it couldn't stand up to the steel shafts.

 

Isn't it just the 2wd that came with the aluminum??? I need to get mine shortened for my 9.75 swap and have my stock steel one and an aluminum one from a 2wd 7700. Which one should I get shortened and go with?

 

Aluminum? Steel?!

Just get a carbon fiber one.

 

One pound of rotational mass is equal to 15 pounds stationary mass. Dropping a vehicles stationary weight by 60 pounds is equivalent to gaining one HP. An aluminum driveshaft is somewhere around 19 pounds a steel one is closer to 50. Dropping 30 rotational pounds would only free up about 7.5 HP. Regaurdless of structural integrity of the aluminum replacement, is it worth the hassle ??? If I was you I wouldnt sweat it. Paint the steel one and be done with it. I realize appearance was a higher priority than performance gains, but considering your running a 305/70 on a 16x10 I dont think you would even notice the difference.

 

Personally I would go with a steel driveline. I destroyed my aluminum driveline and tranny tail housing on a high speed drive on the Highway about 8 years ago. The aluminum driveline could not handle the centrifugal force and "jump roped" snapping the tail housing. The steel driveline has no vibration in comparison to the aluminum one. Mine is a two piece with center support bearing 120 wall. a little more weight but a lot more piece of mind. Use non greasable spicer u-joints to insure a long life.