Loss of Engine Power - What Happened?
Loss of Engine Power - What Happened?
I have noticed that about a month ago, my truck is not as strong as it has been. The truck has (had 198,000 at the time I noticed) 200,078 miles on it. It is the 5.4 V8 with 4x4. I noticed this decrease in power almost soon after getting new tires. I had some worn out Bridgestone Duellers on it (factory size), and replaced those with some Cooper ST tires (factory size, but more aggressive than street tires).
I pull a good bit (buy and sell farm tractors in the Southeast), and do alot of empty highway driving to and from work. At first it was running great, but noticed that with empty trailer it was like beating a dead horse to get it to cruise comfortably with overdrive ON (empty trailer). Coming back from Kentucky to Alabama with a LOADED TRAILER and Overdrive OFF, it pulled good, but slowed down FAST when I would come to the slightest grade.
I went to Illinois the next week, and discovered the same thing. It was running good and smooth, but just no power empty or full. It would slow down quick on the slightest grade. While in Illinois, my CEL came on (not common with this truck); and I had AutoZone check it to be sure it was something that wouldn't leave me stranded. It came out to be that the hose to the EGR sensor had come unplugged or stopped up or something. I went to inspect it and sure enough it had popped off. I decided to wait til I got back to the hotel and let it cool before replacing the rubber hose. I went to put it back on, and noticed that it came off because the entire nipple/fitting it fastened to on the sensor had just Broken off inside the hose. Well, now I will need a new sensor and hose. Not a big deal. I haven't fixed it as of yet and that was 2 weeks ago.
I have also noticed that with me driving back and forth to work on the interstate and if I hit a slightly steep hill, I will slow down fast and the engine will shift to compensate. It shouldn't have to do this unloaded (empty truck with no trailer). Within the last week, I have also noticed that the engine is not only slightly weaker than normal, but it isn't running as smooth as it was a couple weeks ago. Randomly, the engine will "kick" when the gas is thrown to it (going uphill), as if a coil pack is going out.
NOW.....is all of this possbily caused by the bad/unplugged EGR sensor??? Is my engine showing signs of being worn out? What do you all think it could be? This weekend I am traveling to Kentucky/Ohio border, and will not be taking my truck due to the lack of power problem.
* KEEP IN MIND THAT THE AVERAGE PERSON MIGHT NOT NOTICE ALL OF THIS, BUT I AM SINCE I DRIVE IT EVERYDAY. IT ISN'T THAT BAD TO WHERE ANYONE WOULD NOTICE.


I pull a good bit (buy and sell farm tractors in the Southeast), and do alot of empty highway driving to and from work. At first it was running great, but noticed that with empty trailer it was like beating a dead horse to get it to cruise comfortably with overdrive ON (empty trailer). Coming back from Kentucky to Alabama with a LOADED TRAILER and Overdrive OFF, it pulled good, but slowed down FAST when I would come to the slightest grade.
I went to Illinois the next week, and discovered the same thing. It was running good and smooth, but just no power empty or full. It would slow down quick on the slightest grade. While in Illinois, my CEL came on (not common with this truck); and I had AutoZone check it to be sure it was something that wouldn't leave me stranded. It came out to be that the hose to the EGR sensor had come unplugged or stopped up or something. I went to inspect it and sure enough it had popped off. I decided to wait til I got back to the hotel and let it cool before replacing the rubber hose. I went to put it back on, and noticed that it came off because the entire nipple/fitting it fastened to on the sensor had just Broken off inside the hose. Well, now I will need a new sensor and hose. Not a big deal. I haven't fixed it as of yet and that was 2 weeks ago.
I have also noticed that with me driving back and forth to work on the interstate and if I hit a slightly steep hill, I will slow down fast and the engine will shift to compensate. It shouldn't have to do this unloaded (empty truck with no trailer). Within the last week, I have also noticed that the engine is not only slightly weaker than normal, but it isn't running as smooth as it was a couple weeks ago. Randomly, the engine will "kick" when the gas is thrown to it (going uphill), as if a coil pack is going out.
NOW.....is all of this possbily caused by the bad/unplugged EGR sensor??? Is my engine showing signs of being worn out? What do you all think it could be? This weekend I am traveling to Kentucky/Ohio border, and will not be taking my truck due to the lack of power problem.
* KEEP IN MIND THAT THE AVERAGE PERSON MIGHT NOT NOTICE ALL OF THIS, BUT I AM SINCE I DRIVE IT EVERYDAY. IT ISN'T THAT BAD TO WHERE ANYONE WOULD NOTICE.


Last edited by redfarmer84; Aug 7, 2012 at 05:24 PM.
Egr ports could be plugged in the valve itself, but with 198k it could be on the downhill slide. Fix your EGR then see if it fixes it, if not clean throttle body, then plugs/COP's. Btw B-E-A-utiful truck!
Which hose and what part of the emission system? Couldn't be the valve, -it's metal. Never seen those break.
So, it's either the EVR,EVAP or DPFE. Yea, figure out which it is. Describe hose routing.
Also, 5.4L's don't use coil packs. Coil packs are used on the older 4.6L's and 4.2L. The 5.4L's, -all use Fords high tech design ignition systems; well, that's what they call it anyway lol. Yea, they utilize COP ignition systems, -just coils. -One per cylinder. Now you know
At those miles and if you want to revive it and I know what you mean, I've been there, -you have to go thru it. It's time.
Injectors, - replace with new. Cheap on eBay. New is better, but you can purchase refurbished as well.
Coils, - Purchase these new, ONLY new and purchase ONLY Visteon/Motorcraft. These are reasonably priced on eBay as well. OEM's are about 180 for a complete set.
Plugs - Only, Motorcraft, Denso or NGK.
O2 Sensors. At least the two that are upstream. Only Bosch or Motorcraft.
PCV Valve, Only a Motorcraft valve if you want her to breath correctly. They WILL NOT with other. As other brands are generic and don't have the proper margins. Way to tight!
Fuel filter
She will feel quick, responsive. The heavy slug feeling, -solved.
Good luck! Get to work!
So, it's either the EVR,EVAP or DPFE. Yea, figure out which it is. Describe hose routing.
Also, 5.4L's don't use coil packs. Coil packs are used on the older 4.6L's and 4.2L. The 5.4L's, -all use Fords high tech design ignition systems; well, that's what they call it anyway lol. Yea, they utilize COP ignition systems, -just coils. -One per cylinder. Now you know
At those miles and if you want to revive it and I know what you mean, I've been there, -you have to go thru it. It's time.
Injectors, - replace with new. Cheap on eBay. New is better, but you can purchase refurbished as well.
Coils, - Purchase these new, ONLY new and purchase ONLY Visteon/Motorcraft. These are reasonably priced on eBay as well. OEM's are about 180 for a complete set.
Plugs - Only, Motorcraft, Denso or NGK.
O2 Sensors. At least the two that are upstream. Only Bosch or Motorcraft.
PCV Valve, Only a Motorcraft valve if you want her to breath correctly. They WILL NOT with other. As other brands are generic and don't have the proper margins. Way to tight!
Fuel filter
She will feel quick, responsive. The heavy slug feeling, -solved.
Good luck! Get to work!
We have never owned anything bigger than a 1/2 ton truck and have been doing this for YEARS. The 3/4 ton trucks and 1 ton trucks are just way overpriced and not affordable, especially when the 1/2 ton truck does just fine. We put 320k on our '84 Dodge 1/2 ton until the transmission finally went out (after 2 torque converters). We now have an '02 Dodge 1/2 ton with the 4.7 V8, and it has and still does pull great...like a brand new truck, never any problems but a set of brakes and a u-joint on the driveshaft (pulls 90% of its life). I have only had the Ford for 1 year, and it has been a great truck. Talked to the previous owner and said it never gave him any problems and he never pulled anything of any size with it.
Ok! I will get that issue fixed first. I also forgot to mention that I can hear an exhaust leak (ticking sound) when driving the truck. It has came into play about the same time. I looked under the truck and saw a hole in the exhaust system either just before or after the muffler where it connects to the pipe (I can't remember which). I will post back later today with updates on the exact problems as I have it printed on the Autozone ticket in the truck.
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Ok. Here is what the code is that the machine pulled. It was the only code today, and was the only code back on the day it came on almost 3 weeks ago. Apparently no other codes have been triggered even though I feel like it has started to run "worse". I also snapped a picture of a hole in my exhaust pipe. It was the only one I could find by laying on the parking lot at work. It is directly BEHIND the muffler between it and the hanger bracket on the right pipe in the picture. The hole is in the seam of the pipe as you can see. I didn't see any other holes. The part pictured is te part I was telling you that the "nipple" broke off inside the rubber hose. When I went to grab the hose to try and put it back on, I touched the hose and it crumbled a peice off (1/2 inch long) in my hand. That peice contained part of the "nipple" in it. If I recall it was the hose closest to the firewall of the truck.




Last edited by redfarmer84; Aug 8, 2012 at 03:06 PM.
where are they, and how would I do that (clean te EGR ports)? Shouldn't I replace that sensor since the nipple broke off? The hose would have to be replaced too since it broke. Where does the other end go, and how hard is this task. Should I pay a mechanic shop, or just do it myself? I've only got 1 day to fix it, cause I found out that I gotta take my truck on this 8 hour trip.
where are they, and how would I do that (clean te EGR ports)? Shouldn't I replace that sensor since the nipple broke off? The hose would have to be replaced too since it broke. Where does the other end go, and how hard is this task. Should I pay a mechanic shop, or just do it myself? I've only got 1 day to fix it, cause I found out that I gotta take my truck on this 8 hour trip.
Your on the right track tho. Fix what's broken and do like I said if you want your truck at it's best with those miles. You won't regret it.
Like mentioned, and one that slipped my mind, - your converters may be becoming an issue. With those miles, I'd just remove the rear converters, replace w/2.5" pipe. This may help and you'll still be within programmed parameters. = No CEL with that model.
Simple and cheap to fix yourself if you follow direction.
Good Luck.
Repair update~!
Ok guys, I bought a new DPFE sensor and 2 new hoses for it about 2 weeks ago and installed it myself. OMG, the problem went away and the truck runs like brand new instantly!! The CEL also went off. I was actually able to take my truck on the trip from Alabama to North Kentucky/Ohio. We bought (2) tractors, and pulled them home. The truck did AMAZING! It pulled those tractors like it was nobody's business (with Overdrive off of course). I was able to run about 70-75 with traffic and while not pushing my truck to work too hard. That was totally the root of the problem. I ended up getting the sensor at the local Ford dealer and hoses for $128 and some change. I did have to cut the hoses so they wouldn't be too long. Otherwise...about a 15 minute swap!
Now, the bad. The problem is back 2 weeks later (well it is running like it was before, maybe a little worse). The engine is strong and smooth, but it is kicking and bucking like nobody's busineess. It kicks and bucks when you accellerate on the gas (just before you would give it enough to change into another gear). I have also noticed that when you DO push the throttle for it to change to another gear (ie. passing/accelerating onto the interstate), it is sluggish on accelerating and not smooth. Also, I've noticed in the last 2 days it is kicking and bucking going down the interstate ALOT constantly, not just at random jolts or when you accelerate more.
All of this is happening with NO ILLUMINATION of the CEL. The CEL has not come back on since I replaced the DPFE sensor and hoses.
Now, the bad. The problem is back 2 weeks later (well it is running like it was before, maybe a little worse). The engine is strong and smooth, but it is kicking and bucking like nobody's busineess. It kicks and bucks when you accellerate on the gas (just before you would give it enough to change into another gear). I have also noticed that when you DO push the throttle for it to change to another gear (ie. passing/accelerating onto the interstate), it is sluggish on accelerating and not smooth. Also, I've noticed in the last 2 days it is kicking and bucking going down the interstate ALOT constantly, not just at random jolts or when you accelerate more.
All of this is happening with NO ILLUMINATION of the CEL. The CEL has not come back on since I replaced the DPFE sensor and hoses.
A coil is now going shorted.
Your entering a time now that due to age things are going to happen and begin to chase faults until they play themselves out and you catch up with them..
Handle them as they come .
Good luck.
Your entering a time now that due to age things are going to happen and begin to chase faults until they play themselves out and you catch up with them..
Handle them as they come .
Good luck.







