Exactly my thoughts....BUT how do I know which coil?? There are no codes to pull from the CEL. Last year when I bought it, I had (2) coils replaced. Don't know which ones they were, but I had someone replace them for me. How do you find out which one? When the truck is idiling, it sounds/runs fine. Only under acceleration it runs rough, moderate or hard.

 

If your not doing any of the work, a dealer stress test will pick out the coil that is low on output.
Otherwise you would have to sub each coil and test drive to find the coil.
Sorry it's not easy.
When a coil goes into a 'hard fault' you get a code but this is not a hard fault because low output only shows under certain conditions.
The PCM knows it's happening and which cyclinder it is but it goes away so the PCM clears the count, so no code is set.
This is part of the decision making designed into the system so every little glitch does not result in a trouble code or CEL set, for practical reasons.
Just as a bit more on this subject, this is why some of the gauges on the dash never move once you power up the engine. They move to a position and stay there so the driver cannot see every little change and think it's a problem.
Good luck.

 

What does this dealer "stress test" entail? Is this something I can do myself, so I don't have to buy a coil and do the trial and error test? Also, Is this stress test something my personal mechanic can do? Since the dealer is known to charge big $$$ and take 2 days to get something done, I'd much rather fix it myself, or let my personal mechanic do it since he really doesn't charge me much labor (if he does at all).

 

I doubt your shop has the equipment to do a stress test.
The test is to detect low output.
Your shop should be able to take a known good coil and rotate it through the cylinder positions and test drive to find when the faulty coil had been replaced.
Best you can do to reduce the cost and time.
There is a certain amount of time involved, but someone has to do it.
Good luck.

 

For what you are gonna pay anyone to test the coils accurately, you can probably buy a whole set on Ebay and change them yourself. The cheap Chinese coils are about 75 bucks, and they *generally* work OK, or a set of OEM Visteons are about $180. Dealer is gonna nail you 90 bucks per coil.

 

Advice on coils is not to use any but OEM no matter where you get them from.
The' risk' of failure and short life is about what you get for the low price of other brands.
Tried it once and lost them all one at a time. Now have OEM and no issues for the last 75k miles.
Not to say OEM never fails, they do or you would not be at this point but the life is much longer.
Ford uses their source for all their lines of cars and trucks in lue of cheaper sources.
You can imagine the PR over coils if there were mass failure in short interval over many lines.
It's a given at this point over so many years and so many Ford lines on Lincoln, Mercury Ford and the truck line that no other coils have a history of average reliability as good.
Last, coils are like tires, shocks, plugs and brakes and any other parts; they are a service/maintaince item.
There is only so far down the cost ladder one can go before you defeat yourself on cost vs time and reliability.
It's still your decision t make.
Good luck..

 

Correct Bluegrass. Ford OEM Visteon/Motorcraft coils from the Hungary plant can still be had. They are more expensive, but, -under dealership retail. Like glc has posted, 180 a set.

These coils haven't failed 1 person yet, -that I'm aware of; -here and abroad. Lincoln, Thunderbird, Crown Vic/Grand Marquis forums swear by them.

Get them while you can, - quite a few are purchasing just to have them on the shelf, -just in case.

 

See if there's a stored code. If not I would change the fuel filter, because you probably haven't been changing it every 30k, it needs done regardless, and it's a cheap thing to try to rule out. Look into spark plugs after that, and still runs bad with no codes look for vacuum leak or coil on plugs. Go rockauto/ebay/amazon for the parts. Way cheaper.

 

Ok. I definitely want to go with the OEM Ford COPs. What site has them and what is the specific part number I need to make sure I get? I will also go with new Motorcraft Plugs too. Should I get those online, or at Walmart, Napa, etc.? Might even do another fuel filter since I've put about 25k on this one. I'll either pay my mechanic to change all of them (he changed 2 for me last year), or learn to do it myself.

 

Is this what I need? Also, are these OEM FORD?? It doesn't look like it to me. I want the best ones that will be great and reliable.

 

Just ordered a set so they'll hopefully be here by Friday or Saturday! Surely those are what I need.

$186.00 after shipping