Need some help with my F150
Need some help with my F150
Ok I've got a 2001 F150 4wd with the 5.4 I've developed a miss/shutter/hesitation whatever you wanna call it. The truck idles perfect, low rpm driving it does fine and higher rpm it clears up. The problem lies in the midrange area or with a load on it. It bucks and jumps. If you give it more gas and get it into the higher rpms it clears up. You can also take off from a dead stop and it will hesitate and miss all the way up until 3700, then its like you flip a switch and it runs perfect.
I've changed Maf sensor, cam position sensor, all the coils and plugs, throttle position sensor, dpfe sensor, fuel filter, o2 sensors.
The only thing I can think of thats left is the crank position sensor.
Any help or ideas on what to look for would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jack
I've changed Maf sensor, cam position sensor, all the coils and plugs, throttle position sensor, dpfe sensor, fuel filter, o2 sensors.
The only thing I can think of thats left is the crank position sensor.
Any help or ideas on what to look for would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jack
Ok I've got a 2001 F150 4wd with the 5.4 I've developed a miss/shutter/hesitation whatever you wanna call it. The truck idles perfect, low rpm driving it does fine and higher rpm it clears up. The problem lies in the midrange area or with a load on it. It bucks and jumps. If you give it more gas and get it into the higher rpms it clears up. You can also take off from a dead stop and it will hesitate and miss all the way up until 3700, then its like you flip a switch and it runs perfect.
I've changed Maf sensor, cam position sensor, all the coils and plugs, throttle position sensor, dpfe sensor, fuel filter, o2 sensors.
The only thing I can think of thats left is the crank position sensor.
Any help or ideas on what to look for would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jack
I've changed Maf sensor, cam position sensor, all the coils and plugs, throttle position sensor, dpfe sensor, fuel filter, o2 sensors.
The only thing I can think of thats left is the crank position sensor.
Any help or ideas on what to look for would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jack
Pull the green line from the EGR valve, -let it hang safely. Tap the valve a few times, take it for a drive with the green line disconnected. Still run the same? 9 times out of 10 you have a coil problem, new or not. - Unless you used Autolite plugs (103 or 104's). Then you have a plug problem.
I agree it's still a coil with lower output.
Why with two sets of coils may be just a coinsidience.
The coils are fired by the driver program triggereing a solidstate switch for each coil.
The test of the switches is to look back at them through the coil plugs with an ohm meter.
The readings should be about 10,000 ohms +/-.
If open or shorted,the coil may not produce full output during the EGR open function interval.
Which one is still the issue to find as it may never set a code to tell you which cylinder it is.
Good luck.
Why with two sets of coils may be just a coinsidience.
The coils are fired by the driver program triggereing a solidstate switch for each coil.
The test of the switches is to look back at them through the coil plugs with an ohm meter.
The readings should be about 10,000 ohms +/-.
If open or shorted,the coil may not produce full output during the EGR open function interval.
Which one is still the issue to find as it may never set a code to tell you which cylinder it is.
Good luck.






