Hope you are going to do rear shocks too. If they are the same as the front, they are worthless at this point.

 

Ball joints with the upper control arm are about the same price for 4x4 or 4x2, and lower ball joints cost about the same too. Shocks cost pretty much the same also, so no real difference in price between the two. The only difference I can think of is if your paying a shop to do it in which case you may have an extra hour or two of labor because they have to work around the cv axle, but really if you don't mind working with not a lot of room you can do it with the axle still in place.

 

After 15 years and the climate your in expect these conditions.
The synthetic rubber has chemicals in the original mix that gives the softness and flexability.
Eventaully they evaporate out leaving the base material hard, then shrinkage/ breakage occurs.
Same thing happens to old tires on the side walls. Rubber gets hard and begins to break the fabric.
Intake manifold fitting do the same and cause the famous codes 171/174 from the deterioration.
An atmosphere of high Ozone gas also accelerates rubber deterioration.
The anti roll bar bushings must not be over tighened too far or early failure, as you show, will happen. Over tighening can break the bolts as well, especially after the bushings get hard there is no more flex so movement works on the bolt..
Good luck.

 

must be looking in the wrong place for parts then... i can do work, no issue, its the parts that i have a hard time getting ahold of at times.

 

I might just hold off until I can get a suspension lift. Don't most suspension lifts come with upper control arms and shocks?

 

no, they use the stock A-arms.

 

Nasty, but normal. I'd replace everything up front at the same time, - rears to. - Shocks anyway.

The bushings last quite awhile IMO, perhaps longer treating them once in awhile w/silicone spray.

Yours are beyond all that now, - probably use to squeak, - now just clunk once in awhile lol.

Yea, you can fix most of that yourself, - take it in for alignment once your thru.

 

His are upside down

 

I think I'd be looking at that frame a bit as well.

 

What exactly is upside down?

 

You mean the bolt itself? Ive seen it installed with the head of the bolt on the top and in other places on the bottom. Is there actually a correct way? It does look installed weird to me. I ordered four new shocks today and upper control arms with upper ball joints along with the stabilizer bar end links.

 

Somewhere I read 16lb of torque was ideal but I think they were talking MOOG replacement parts. I’m looking at OEM unless you would recommend MOOG. Would you agree 16lb of torque on the link bolt?

Also, when installing the bolt, should the truck be resting on its own weight or lifted?

 

As far as installing the sway bar end links. it would be easiest with both front tires on the ground so you won't have to fight with it as much. Also look at the sway bar mounting bushings to the frame are probably toast to. It would be a good Idea to pressure wash the frame and paint it with a rust inhibitor and paint. I personally have always put the head of the bolt on top because it's easier and that's the way the factory does it. When I tighten my end links I went with a slight compression of the bushings and your good to go.

 

I missed a lot of the problems in the OP's original picture. I really need to stop drinking while posting.

 

Man that thing was rusty. It got sold earlier this year to a kid who lives a couple hours away. His first vehicle. That truck did have some character.