A few 99 F-150 XL questions
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From: Thunder Bay
A few 99 F-150 XL questions
Hey guys, I am the new guy here... I am somewhat in the loop with trucks nothing spectacular. I just had a few questions and if you could help me out that would be awesome.
I have a 1999 F-150 XL Supercab (4.2L) and recently the MPG have just gone off the charts. I literally burn an 8th of a tank going to hockey (20KM tops) and that's mostly on the highway. I just changed the air filter, pur are in the tires, going for a transmission and regular oil change next week and use Esso gas. (EXXON) for you guys in the states. I was also looking into a new cold air intake but as a college student, money isn't really the easiest thing to come by... So even a 1MPG gain would be a big savings to me
The other question I had was about a squeal at start up. recently after a fishing trip I bottomed out the truck after going down a hill... (Yeah the 4.2 isn't that high off the ground) and after the fact I found i put a nice hole in the exhaust. Along with that, more often than not the ignition of the truck will sequel almost like you were holding the ignition too long. I have no idea what this would be but if you could help me out that would be great.
Lastly, I have rust under my doors. I was thinking because I don't have the money to replace a door I would just scrape the rust and paint that's chipping off and spray over it with some rubber undercoating spray and then spray paint it red again. <-- my truck is red. I haven't heard of anyone doing this but if you have any other suggestions please tell me.
Thanks Guys,
Phil
Edit: Here is my truck
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I have a 1999 F-150 XL Supercab (4.2L) and recently the MPG have just gone off the charts. I literally burn an 8th of a tank going to hockey (20KM tops) and that's mostly on the highway. I just changed the air filter, pur are in the tires, going for a transmission and regular oil change next week and use Esso gas. (EXXON) for you guys in the states. I was also looking into a new cold air intake but as a college student, money isn't really the easiest thing to come by... So even a 1MPG gain would be a big savings to me
The other question I had was about a squeal at start up. recently after a fishing trip I bottomed out the truck after going down a hill... (Yeah the 4.2 isn't that high off the ground) and after the fact I found i put a nice hole in the exhaust. Along with that, more often than not the ignition of the truck will sequel almost like you were holding the ignition too long. I have no idea what this would be but if you could help me out that would be great.
Lastly, I have rust under my doors. I was thinking because I don't have the money to replace a door I would just scrape the rust and paint that's chipping off and spray over it with some rubber undercoating spray and then spray paint it red again. <-- my truck is red. I haven't heard of anyone doing this but if you have any other suggestions please tell me.
Thanks Guys,
Phil
Edit: Here is my truck
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Last edited by philcamlin; Apr 14, 2012 at 10:33 AM.
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From: Easton, Pa.
Hello Phil,
If you have no codes set it's difficult to tell what might be causing the poor fuel mileage without investigation.
Forget any mods to the intake looking for better mileage. It isn't there to get in that fashion.
The better thing to do is have someone look at the live data with a scanner not a reader, and knows what he is looking at, to see if the fuel trims are to far out of normal.
If yes, then you have something to act on otherwise you will spend money on guessing that does't help.
Some of the areas that would affect fuel mileage is leaking injectors, OX sensores that are not operating causing an open loop condition, faulty CHT sensor, partial blocked exhaust, air intake leak, thermostat fautly ans stuck open causing the motor to run to cold. The CHT would react to this and raise fuel consumption.
Most of these would cause a code.
The squeal likely is a drive belt, mud in the pulley grooves, old belt, tensioner faulty.
Good luck.
If you have no codes set it's difficult to tell what might be causing the poor fuel mileage without investigation.
Forget any mods to the intake looking for better mileage. It isn't there to get in that fashion.
The better thing to do is have someone look at the live data with a scanner not a reader, and knows what he is looking at, to see if the fuel trims are to far out of normal.
If yes, then you have something to act on otherwise you will spend money on guessing that does't help.
Some of the areas that would affect fuel mileage is leaking injectors, OX sensores that are not operating causing an open loop condition, faulty CHT sensor, partial blocked exhaust, air intake leak, thermostat fautly ans stuck open causing the motor to run to cold. The CHT would react to this and raise fuel consumption.
Most of these would cause a code.
The squeal likely is a drive belt, mud in the pulley grooves, old belt, tensioner faulty.
Good luck.
Last edited by Bluegrass; Apr 14, 2012 at 09:39 PM.
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From: Thunder Bay
Hello Phil,
If you have no codes set it's difficult to tell what might be causing the poor fuel mileage without investigation.
Forget any mods to the intake looking for better mileage. It isn't there to get in that fashion.
The better thing to do is have someone look at the live data with a scanner not a reader, and knows what he is looking at, to see if the fuel trims are to far out of normal.
If yes, then you have something to act on otherwise you will spend money on guessing that does't help.
Some of the areas that would affect fuel mileage is leaking injectors, OX sensores that are not operating causing an open loop condition, faulty CHT sensor, partial blocked exhaust, air intake leak, thermostat fautly ans stuck open causing the motor to run to cold. The CHT would react to this and raise fuel consumption.
Most of these would cause a code.
The squeal likely is a drive belt, mud in the pulley grooves, old belt, tensioner faulty.
Good luck.
If you have no codes set it's difficult to tell what might be causing the poor fuel mileage without investigation.
Forget any mods to the intake looking for better mileage. It isn't there to get in that fashion.
The better thing to do is have someone look at the live data with a scanner not a reader, and knows what he is looking at, to see if the fuel trims are to far out of normal.
If yes, then you have something to act on otherwise you will spend money on guessing that does't help.
Some of the areas that would affect fuel mileage is leaking injectors, OX sensores that are not operating causing an open loop condition, faulty CHT sensor, partial blocked exhaust, air intake leak, thermostat fautly ans stuck open causing the motor to run to cold. The CHT would react to this and raise fuel consumption.
Most of these would cause a code.
The squeal likely is a drive belt, mud in the pulley grooves, old belt, tensioner faulty.
Good luck.
I might just bring it into a shop and see what they can find out... And yeah the belt hasn't been changed in a while either! I will probably do that too! Thanks! If anyone else has an idea please let me know.
PICTURE-- The oil pressure gauge does go up but I didn't turn my truck on since I just had to check the codes. That's the only code it throws
Heres the code---
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Last edited by philcamlin; Apr 14, 2012 at 10:04 PM.
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From: MI
How are you getting the 5284 ? Well, you can't, or shouldn't be able to with a normal scanner.
Hit up auto zone, get it read for free and right down the DTC's. Do you get an oil light at any time ? You would with a 5284 since you pan is getting sucked dry of oil @ high rpms lol.
Could also generate that because of oil pressure, -sending switch failure. They get screwed up or dirty from oil services. Iduno... - I would have it scanned again or for the first time, - (which ever it is) with a simple scanner like mentioned above.
Tell us what you find, - write it down as it shows up on the scanner.
Hit up auto zone, get it read for free and right down the DTC's. Do you get an oil light at any time ? You would with a 5284 since you pan is getting sucked dry of oil @ high rpms lol.
Could also generate that because of oil pressure, -sending switch failure. They get screwed up or dirty from oil services. Iduno... - I would have it scanned again or for the first time, - (which ever it is) with a simple scanner like mentioned above.
Tell us what you find, - write it down as it shows up on the scanner.
Last edited by jbrew; Apr 14, 2012 at 10:14 PM.
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From: MI
I would still scan with a simple scanner.
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From: Chandler, Tx
He's getting the code from his odometer, not a reader...???? To the OP do a good tune up plugs, wires, fluids, filters and I would do the O2 sensors if it was mine if for nothing else than peace of mind. Good luck
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From: Thunder Bay
How are you getting the 5284 ? Well, you can't, or shouldn't be able to with a normal scanner.
Hit up auto zone, get it read for free and right down the DTC's. Do you get an oil light at any time ? You would with a 5284 since you pan is getting sucked dry of oil @ high rpms lol.
Could also generate that because of oil pressure, -sending switch failure. They get screwed up or dirty from oil services. Iduno... - I would have it scanned again or for the first time, - (which ever it is) with a simple scanner like mentioned above.
Tell us what you find, - write it down as it shows up on the scanner.
Hit up auto zone, get it read for free and right down the DTC's. Do you get an oil light at any time ? You would with a 5284 since you pan is getting sucked dry of oil @ high rpms lol.
Could also generate that because of oil pressure, -sending switch failure. They get screwed up or dirty from oil services. Iduno... - I would have it scanned again or for the first time, - (which ever it is) with a simple scanner like mentioned above.
Tell us what you find, - write it down as it shows up on the scanner.
I drove it hard the other day to try and see if there was any crap built up on the injectors or whatever and nothing seemed to change. "He's getting the code from his odometer, not a reader...???? To the OP do a good tune up plugs, wires, fluids, filters and I would do the O2 sensors if it was mine if for nothing else than peace of mind. Good luck"
-- I will do that! THank you
I will hit up autozone Monday or Tuesday!! This truck has been a beast until this
Plus with gas here @ 5.47$ US GAL (1.449/L) equivalent it isn't cheap to run any more so anything helps I love the thingThanks guys
Last edited by philcamlin; Apr 14, 2012 at 10:29 PM.
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From: Chandler, Tx
OP how did you get that to come up? Did you just turn on the key and it popped up and does it go away when you strt and drive the truck and act like a normal odometer? 
As for the rust your method might slow it down but the only way to stop it is to cut it out and replace the metal.
As for the rust your method might slow it down but the only way to stop it is to cut it out and replace the metal.
Last edited by c.frank47; Apr 14, 2012 at 10:46 PM.
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From: Thunder Bay
by the way, digital tachometer is the best 
Enjoy!
and yeah as for the rust I just wanted a quick fix until i can afford a new door!
Last edited by philcamlin; Apr 14, 2012 at 10:53 PM.
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From: Joplin MO
Fords don't read PCM codes through the odometer - those are instrument cluster codes and are meaningless. You need an OBD2 code reader.
To the best of my knowledge, only Dodges can read PCM (P) codes through the odometer.
To the best of my knowledge, only Dodges can read PCM (P) codes through the odometer.
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From: Chandler, Tx
Thats what i was wondering, I have done that to my truck also 
I may be wrong but I think you have to have manufacturer info to be able to read those codes... Best bet is to go to autozone like you said and post any codes (if any) back here, these guy's around here are good at getting you going in the right direction
I may be wrong but I think you have to have manufacturer info to be able to read those codes... Best bet is to go to autozone like you said and post any codes (if any) back here, these guy's around here are good at getting you going in the right direction
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From: MI
This first - http://www.ebay.com/itm/POR-15-Prep-...item5198dc274c
Then this - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bill-Hirsch-...item3f132f63fa
Then head up to Sherwin Williams and have them whip up your paint code in a couple aerosol cans for yuh..
It's the best you can do other than welding in new metal. - Or replacing the doors.
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From: Thunder Bay
Thats what i was wondering, I have done that to my truck also I may be wrong but I think you have to have manufacturer info to be able to read those codes... Best bet is to go to autozone like you said and post any codes (if any) back here, these guy's around here are good at getting you going in the right direction
I may be wrong but I think you have to have manufacturer info to be able to read those codes... Best bet is to go to autozone like you said and post any codes (if any) back here, these guy's around here are good at getting you going in the right direction