gages vs starter
gages vs starter
I have an 1997 f150 xlt 4x4. on startup everything is good, one minite later the oil goes to high, a few seconds the temp goes max then voltage drops to 0.
I check all oil is still good , temp is fine, voltage is good. gages still bad. If I shut it down and try to crank it , the starter dosen't ingage fully. I let off hit it again. starts fine. gages still bad. turn off let cooldown restart gages fine , one minite later it does the samething. I am a ase heavy truck mechanic, did research. replaced GEM module. not the problem. help help.: confused:
I check all oil is still good , temp is fine, voltage is good. gages still bad. If I shut it down and try to crank it , the starter dosen't ingage fully. I let off hit it again. starts fine. gages still bad. turn off let cooldown restart gages fine , one minite later it does the samething. I am a ase heavy truck mechanic, did research. replaced GEM module. not the problem. help help.: confused:
First thing to start with is removing the battey cables and clean the posts and cable ends.
Inspect the cables for corrosion under the coverings at the ends.
Eliminate each area until you find the issue.
Do inspect and tighten all ground straps, frame connections and engine connection points..
My feeling is that after a huge current draw of starting, a connection has heated and went high in resistance until it fully cools.
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A condition can develope with the cables and posts where the connection is corroded.
When trying to start or during cranking, the lead in the post melts in pockets then cools.
This can cause intermittant and slow cranking until a complete failure takes place. Often the give-away is the post and cable end gets very hot.
The post usually will show createring and pok marking when melting is taking place from a marginal connection.
Be awhere that nearly 200 amps is drawn at about 12 volts through the cables when cranking.
This amounts to 12v x 200a = 2400 watts of power. Enough to heat a bad connection very quickly in a concentrated small area.
Good luck.
Inspect the cables for corrosion under the coverings at the ends.
Eliminate each area until you find the issue.
Do inspect and tighten all ground straps, frame connections and engine connection points..
My feeling is that after a huge current draw of starting, a connection has heated and went high in resistance until it fully cools.
.
A condition can develope with the cables and posts where the connection is corroded.
When trying to start or during cranking, the lead in the post melts in pockets then cools.
This can cause intermittant and slow cranking until a complete failure takes place. Often the give-away is the post and cable end gets very hot.
The post usually will show createring and pok marking when melting is taking place from a marginal connection.
Be awhere that nearly 200 amps is drawn at about 12 volts through the cables when cranking.
This amounts to 12v x 200a = 2400 watts of power. Enough to heat a bad connection very quickly in a concentrated small area.
Good luck.



