First off Hey guys Im Matt from Colorado and Ive been a big Ford guy since I started driving. I got my 2001 5.4 Auto 4x4 F150 by trading a fix n flip Stang I bought for $2800. Its in pretty good shape, it has the factory tow and off road packages. Recently Ive been comtemplating trading off my F150 for something with some more pulling power, but Ive decided to keep her and make do since mpg's wont be too much better with a bigger truck and not to mention gas/diesel prices..plus I dont want a car payment. I did test drive a 99 F250 diesel and it didnt seem to has much grunt and was rather slow off the line? So anyway Im looking to improve performace towing my car hauler, I just ordered an Edge CS Evo to help pep things up and what are some decent priced options as far as air bags or helper springs, the *** end squats pretty bad. Also is there a common problem with the a/c on these trucks? Freon says full on the guage, but it doesnt blow cold and the compressor just kicks on and off...any ideas?

Heres a few pics of my Ford Family...
01 F150 5.4


01 Explorer Sport 4.0

02 Mustang GT 430rwhp...stock 4.6 Longblock


And heres the *** end squatted, input on this problem would be great!

 

Might be overfilled with Freon. Get pressure readings high & low side. Coolant temp switch good?

 

If the compressor is kicking on and off with it set to max. First check that the fan is pulling air. Stick your hand in front of the grille. If you feel vacuum, you know the condenser is getting a low pressure. Next you should take it to a professional A/C shop and let them test the low-side pressure. A simple gauge with a "low, good, or high" reading from wal-mart is not the correct way to test the system. Our trucks hold 2.0lbs of R-134a and a max of 7oz of PAG oil.

 

I'll take a stab at your "Squat" problem. Your vehicle as equipped has a max tongue weight of 500 lbs:

Ford Rear Step Bumper/Hitch Receiver Weight Capacity(1)
Refer to the trailer towing charts for Maximum Loaded Trailer Weights for each vehicle.

Ford rear step bumpers and hitch receivers do not include a hitch ball or ball mounting. The vehicle owner is responsible for obtaining the proper hitch ball, ball mounting, weight distributing equipment (ie: equalizing arms and snap-up brackets, sway control system) and other appropriate equipment to tow both the trailer and it's cargo load.

MAX. TONGUE LOAD (lbs.) MAX. TRAILER CAPACITY (Lbs.)(2) MAX. TONGUE LOAD (lbs.)
Rear Step Bumper:
F-Series 5000 500

Hitch Receiver:
F-150 5000 500
(Effective Nov. 2002).

Looking at how far forward your car is loaded on your trailer it appears that over 60% of the vehicle weight is on the tongue of the trailer/hitch and I would bet that it is significantly higher than 500lbs.

i would try moving the car back on the trailer until the rear bumper of the car is even with or hanging a few inches off the back of the trailer so that the trailer wheels are carrying most of the weight of the car instead of the tongue/hitch. to boot, the trailer will tow a whole lot easier and definitely safer.

Good luck!!

 

Nice pics like the stang..As for the *** squat looks like you got all weight on front of trailer..Back car up a little to ballance with a slight more forward for tounge weight..Where the car sits now all weight is on tounge causing the squatting

 

You need a weight distribution hitch if you have more than 500# on the tongue. Ideal tongue weight is 12% of the gross trailer weight. You may have to back the car up onto the trailer.

 

There is definitely more than 500lbs on the tongue the way that car is sitting up front on the trailer. Ive seen trailers with the axles pretty far back like that and some that are more centered. Ive had heavy loads on single axle trailers and you could lift the tongue by hand. And considering the weight on the tongue in that pic, the sag is not that bad for a 1/2 ton

 

Yea I was thinking I need to move the car back. But I always thought it towed better with the weight towards the front of the trailer. Backing the stang on is definatly not an option... It's hard enough to get it on straight since it's so low

 

No, no...you don't need to back the 'stang on...you just need to park it a little further towards the back of the trailer. In the pic, you have 2 feet of trailer behind the 'stang...park it a little closer to the back of the trailer and your truck won't squat like that.

 

Be careful how far you set it back. It really is just the design of the trailer, being the distance from the wheels to the front tongue. If you set it to far back the trailer will be really washy towing it and wont ride very nice on the highway. I would leave it where it is, maybe back it up about 6" or. You would be surprised how much weight that would take off.

 

This is what I was worried about, especially since 95% of my towing is on the highway... but I do agree I can move it back some. Doesnt help the tongue is pretty short on the trailer.

Ps thanks for the a/c input earlier in the thread too guys

 

Mat i drove tractor trailers last 9 yrs pulled many by p/u over last 25 you get trailer balance with a slight more forward to give you some tounge weight you'll have mush less squatting i'm sure of it.. To much weight to rear of trailer you'll have a sway issue

 

Ya you definitely need to move the 'stang back at least 6" but I think a foot might be too much. Maybe put a mark on the trailer that you can see from the driver seat when you get it right that way you wont be guessing every time. Ya the only reason your a/c would be cycling on and off constantly is either no air flow over the condensor or it is over charged.

 

Good idea there ParnAZ to mark trailer when he gets a good load distribution..

 

If you really wanna do it right, find a lumber yard or something with a scale that's willing to work with you. Unhitch and drop the trailer with the car on it on the scale. Note the total weight. Then push the trailer wheels off the scale, leaving just the tongue. Adjust the car's position till the tongue weight is 12% of the total weight.