i need to run this and it looks pretty tedious to get all those steps just right.

i'm wondering if it must be done in that exact order or it won't initiate the drive cycle.

 

Just drive it normally for about 50-100 miles so the computer will re-learn, then the code should go away

 

that's what i thought but it's been a year and the p1000 is still there.

 

Hmmm. well it certainly should have completed all the cycles by now then. Has the battery been disconnected recently?

 

no. not at all.

1 reference talks about letting the truck coast to 20mph without using the brake from 55mph. i don't think i let happen from the freeway to off ramp. too many cars when i have a chance.

 

I don't know where you are getting that information. I would say to disconnect the battery and turn on the headlight switch (to fully drain memory power)... let sit for a while, the reconnect battery and drive as normal.

Re-set the Reset, I guess. I've never heard of having a P1000 for a year. Good Luck

 

I had a simmilar issue. I could not reset the p1000 for anything, drove like 5,000 miles trying every reset procedure i could find. Durring this time i got an xcal2 from a freind so i got a VMP tune for it (i had givin up on the p1000 at this time even though my inspection was 3 months expired) and after i loaded the VMP tune it only took 50 miles to reset the p1000. I think that i had one of two things going on,

1: I have no cats and i am running the gotts o2 mod to keep the SES light off. Mabey this was keeping the catalyst moniter from doing its check and Justin changed something so it knows it doesnt have cats. I dont think this is what was giving me my issue as i had never had an issue with the o2 mod and i had it for 2 years before i had any p1000 problem.

2: My computer just went corrupt and needed to be reprogramed. i have never heard of this before so i dont know for sure but it makes the most sense to me as i changed nothing to make the p1000 come on and changed nothing but the tune to fix it.

Now i know nobody wants to through money at there truck for nothing but if the tuner doesnt fix the p1000 it will definatly make it feel like a whole new truck again and you wont be dissapointed. Now if you already have a tuner i would call who ever writes your custom tunes and see what they think.

What mods / motor do you have just out of curriosity and to help us give you some advice, for all i know that rant i went on has no bearing on your truck

 

Hold the phone as they say.
The 1000 code will be present until all diagnostics are done and 'pass'.
There are usually 7 systems (pids) to tests that are done by drive cycles.
The Evap system takes the longest.
You cannot cancel the 1000 code.
Everytime any PCM power down, program change or code is force cleared, its triggers a new round of all these test.
You cannot do a 'controlled drive cycle' to get all this done because there are too many specific conditions to meet that you cannot do on the road with time intervals and speed needs.
A dealer cannot even clear the code.
What you need to do is LOOK with a Scanner (not a Reader) to see what system has not cleared causing the 1000 code and find the cause.
It was programmed this way to prevent cheating the system for emissions and force compliance.
Good luck.

 

Do the gauges ever "sweep"? if they do you have a connection issue thats causing the PCM to reset..

 

Yea i remember mine had evap and catylist moniter as the two that would not pass. I dont know what could cause it to not clear on mine. now that i think about it, now even if i reset my pcm or reflash it, it will say ready almost immediatly on my scan gauge 2(witch said not ready for those months i couldnt clear it)
Mabey i have an odd ball truck, would fit with the rest like when only ford could get me the right u-joint as the ones the auto parts stores gave me would be a 1/32 of an inch to big(and i checked 20 different stores before coughing up 85$ a peice on u-joints)
Sorry to go off topic guys

 

Don't trust any type of monitor that tells you the system is ready that fast.
A monitor doesn't tell the PCM what to do.
Upon a reboot, flash or a clear; it takes time and the correct conditions to run diagnostics on all the system.
All systems are referenced for test from a cold startup with some having to wait a prescribed amount of time in hours and temperature that the PCM keep track of and won't allow to run until the correct conditions occurr.
For example OX sensors and system requies a drive cycle to test all the functions the OX sensors are required to do.
Some of which are response time to a test the PCM sets up, absolute reaction to exhaust oxygen content, heater action, front to rear ratio sensing to measure cat performance.
The EGR system is tested two times each drive cycle and must pass two drive cycles in a row.
The EVAP system has 4 phases to pass and even depends on tank fuel level..
And so it goes. Only sure way to see what is happening is a good mid grade Scanner.
These are among the reasons you can't do controlled drive cycles and control all the testing because you have no way of knowing what is going on, how long and when.
Good luck.

 

You have a supercharged HD, right? Is your tune messed up?

 

So which monitor hasn't run? That alone will tell you where the problem is.

 

Just trying to make a fool out of myself here, feel free to tell me I'm wrong-that's how I learn.

Anyhoo, isn't there a fuse for the KAM? If so a bad fuse would cause the PCM to dump every time the key is shut off, and cause a new P1000 at every start.

Is that possible?

 

Yes it's possible if the fuse is blown or missing for the Kam but it doesnt rebboot the PCM, only restarts the diagnostics because it's the same action as just clearing codes.