if you want to run over 15# of boost then you need the 2.3 whipple. the eaton starts losing its efficiency once you get around 16# of boost.

as for how much HP im making, i dont know since there isnt a dyno near me. but lightnings make 380hp and 450 ft. lb of torque on motor. so im guessing im around that.

 

That sounds good. id like to get up around 450-500 hp and around 600 ft/lb of torque at the crank beens im moving up to 37s. i think the extra hundred ft/lb of torque will help break them loose if i wanted too . no but on a serious note i would like to get it up around that much but im fine with 380 and 450 also

 

i know a guy that did a eaton swap on his truck, he was only running 12# of boost with 4.56 gears and he said he could light up his 38's easily.

you dont need alot of boost to turn big tires.

 

Just checked out your L swap thread pretty awesome congrats i already had watched the videos on you tube. I got a email today from the guys at proweldperformance that i asked about rebuilding my engineand trans tell me what you think - Congratulations on your desire to serve our country, and on your successful completion of boot camp. Not everyone can do what you did.... The truck sounds interesting. Your 5.4L V-8 is probably worn out after 200K miles. I would suggest a rebuild, but with your future plans of a SC in mind. I have been doing a lot of 5.4L builds lately, so we would start off with a new crank(375.00), quality pistons (Diamond 750-1400.00) and a good rod, Manley(750.00) or Oliver(1250.00). These few parts will give your lower end the strength to live no matter what size blower you choose. The heads are the worst problem on your engine. They just do not breath very well. We could keep the 2-V heads or switch out to 4Valve heads, your call. If you like the 4V ideal, I would use 2009-up GT 500 heads, they are great. If you want to keep it 2Valve, then we can modify your old heads, or go with Trick Flows. new heads. The TF set-up will cost about 3250.00 and the GT 500 set-up about the same, minus the cams. If you keep you old heads, I would rebuild them if possible with new guides and seats, then add quality SSS valves and bee hive springs and a off road, torque type cam. We could re-use the block if it checks out, generally a block that old would need boring, honing, decking and possibly the main bearings trued. machine shop cost would run about 700.00 for all the above. I always balance the rotating assembly so there is another 350.00. Gaskets and seals run 400.00 a long block and sensors and switches run another 200.00. If you want to use ARP studs, then figure another 450.00 for head and main studs, 60 to 120 for cam bolts, and 50 for flywheel bolts. With the larger tires you might want a loser torque converter, so figure on one about 500-750 rpm higher then the stock unit, this will help get those big tire moving. We charge 650.00 for a long block with a shop rate of 45/Hr for everything else. You can send us your engine and we can re-build it however you like, just let us know, Thanks ProWeld


I think they misunderstood me in my email to them i said i was about to leave for bootcamp but anyways i mean they seem like they know what they are doing and they are strictly 5.4 or 4.6 builders they only work on them but as far as pricing goes it seems a little pricy i understand ill have to shell out some cash to get this done but what do you think about this. and wouls you stay 2v or go to 4v if it was you. I know the 4vs breathe a hole lot better but trickflow heads are pretty good too. Just tell me what your opinions on it are if you dont mind

 

Where in west TN?
Im in Southaven just south of Memphis

 

benton county bout a hour from jackson. i used to race motorcycles down round south haven

 

thanks man!

all the parts they are going to use would work really well. i would also agree that your block is probably trash after having so many miles on it. it might be cheaper to just get a new block.

well thats over $5600 worth of engine work. you can get a MHP longblock for $4800.

they are right in that our heads dont flow for crap but you dont really need the 4V heads, seems to be too much for what you need. you can make over 500HP with the stock heads.

i agree with the torque converter too. i love my 2400 stall!

you really need to figure out how much HP you want. otherwise you will be buying parts that you dont need.

 

check out jasper engines for a cheap block and they will also do core swaps

 

Im thinking about some were around 400-500hp more around the 500 mark if i can. But yeah i agree i can get a long block for cheaper

 

Been doing a lot of reading and what do you think about this - stock 5.4l 4v (aluminum block for weight ) these - http://www.summitracing.com/search/B.../?autoview=SKU Then a set of Manley Platinum Series pistons dished so i can get the compression ratio down a bit. and a set of Manley H beam connecting rods. For the money i would probably just get a Forged upgrade kit from mhp thats good for 900hp comes wth both of those and more. That would put me right around 390-400hp and if i can find a stock 5.4l 4v for sale it should be cheaper or around the same as buying a new 5.4l 2v and i wouldnt have to change out heads and or do anything really serious too it so i could get away with just having my friend install it all for free so no shop costs. if i can just find a stock 5.4l 4v for cheaper than the mhp blocks

 

i dont know much about the 4v 5.4's. most L guys that have them are running turbo's or have over 600HP.

 

Seems pretty straight forward. Easier too get too 400-500 hp range than a 2v also apparently. I think the only thing different is the heads im gonna do some more reading though b/c this might be a money saver for people with our 2v engines if it works out good. Also I contacted the proweld people and sent them a link to mhp they said its a awesome site too just make sure if i get rods from there or anywhere to take off 20% of what they are rated to hold cause you cant expect anything to hold what they are rated too. I also asked them about my transmission AGAIN cause all they told me the first time was too put a torque converter in it but they never told me anything about rebuilding it or anything so ill probably try someone else about the transmission cause they dont seem to interested in it. but if i swap too a 4v would i need to get a whipple for that year model ford??? or would i still need the whipple for a 97 f150

 

i dont know what you need to run 4v heads.

check out lightningrodder.com and research there. thats where i learned alot!

 

Alright man sure wiill check it out thanks!