I need to replace the brake line that runs from the engine compartment back to the flexible hose that ties into the brake lines on the rear axle.

The brake line ties into some type of manifold below the master cylinder and I wasn't sure what this part is and what types of fittings go with it. Anyone know what I am up against or tackled this project? Are the fittings standard?

The lines are pretty rusted, so I've been hitting with PB Blaster all week and going to try taking things apart this weekend to start replacing bad parts. If anyone has done this before, tips and watchouts would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Zack

 

Yea, I replaced all the hard lines. Every one lol. The proportioning valve is below the MC. It's purpose, = reduces the pressure to the rear brakes.



Zack, Auto Zone sells line in 25 or 26' rolls. 3/16 if I recall. KEEP the factory fittings, you won't find exactly the same type for that valve connection. Plus, I believe there's 3 different sizes that run all the to the back. You'll only have to mess with two. The one at the valve, you'll need to re-use that fitting on the new line and the one above the rear axle. I believe that's a standard fitting.

Don't split the line half way back as they did at the factory, run solid line all the way back. Don't coil the line either. Not needed.

The rubber lines are junk on these trucks, they break down inside and restrict flow. Cause all kinds of problems with the front calipers.

You'll need a flaring tool and a little practice, but it's not to difficult.

 

I need to replace the steel brake line that runs along the driver side frame rail. Does the gas tank need to be dropped to install this line?

1998 F150 4x4 scab

 

I dropped the tank since it's so easy to do. It's a good idea anyway, so you can get at brake line hangers. It's definitely possible to do with the tank in place. You'll miss two or three hangers in the process, - that's if you run a solid line to the back. The factory brake line runs for the 97-98's use a coupling about half way back under the cab. You can make your connection there as well, -if you choose.

What makes removing the tank so easy is WD40. Use this to assist removing the vents and hoses and it will go quick . Plus you won't break anything lol.

Siphoning, - Always siphon fuel from the rear tank vent (if you want to empty it). Remove the vent hose, using WD40/small screwdriver. Apply more WD40 on the vent grommet. Turn vent counter clockwise 1/4 turn and it will pop out of the tank.

 

I've replaced all the lines on mine as well ('97 f250).
Be careful with the PB Blaster if you're still driving the truck because the rust may be all that's holding the line together.
The one you're talking about, I didn't replace myself (that was the 1st one that popped and I had to have it towed to a shop) so I'm not sure about the front fitting, but if you decide to use the universal lines with the ends already on them (very convenient) and need an adapter fitting, go to Napa. I've found they have a much better selection of brake line fittings and adapters than some of the other big name parts stores.

If you fish the line back, put tape over the end to prevent getting crap in the line. Also it's a good idea to blow some compressed air through the line before hooking it up.

 

the silver rectangular thingy beneath the brake master cylinder is ABS valve and not proportional valve. Just to let you know.

 

The ABS module looks similar to this:

 

Thanks everyone for the great info. I am going to borrow a flaring tool (MasterCool? never used one before, but I'm told it beats the piece of junk I am currently using) from a buddy tomorrow and give it a shot. It sounds like it will be a full day job, but definitely doable thanks to all of the great advice.

JBrew - pictures look great. I am hoping mine looks like that after I am done. I'll shoot some before and after pictures.

 

No, just to let YOU know, that's incorrect. ABS refers to Automatic Brake Steering. The 1/2 tons didn't get this until 99 I believe. I take it you haven't learned how to quote, yet, - so I'm assuming your referring to my post.

To break it down.

The 97-98's have Rear Anti-Lock Brake Systems (RABS) The RABS valve in the proportioning block is at the top, -that black rubber deal/cap IS the RABS valve.

A control valve (large steel nut on the Master)feeds the P-block from the master cylinder.

The RABS elect connector is at the bottom of the P-block.

 

Actually the Anti-Lock control module is located in the center of the instrument panel/dash. No, I'm not referring to the RABS warning light in the cluster.

 

BTW- That's a newer set up. Newer as in some 99's, all 00,01's. They have a separate block just above the frame rail drivers side. The 97,98 and some 99's didn't have anything like that. Just the block below the Master.

 

Jbrew: My apology and thanks for clarification. I looked at the photo and it looks like the RAB system my Truck has.

 

No problem. Yea , it's a good system when everything is working as it should. Ford used cheap hardware and hoses in the past that were prone to failure.

The brake hoses fail internally, they breakdown, bubble/flex when you really need them. Eventually, one of the caliper pistons of the two at each front wheel gets favored over the other. That's from the lack of proper pressure it takes to work these twin piston systems correctly. Line breakdown and flex eats up allot of pressure.

That in-turn heats up they're cheap rotors and wears the pads at an angle. The rotors would actually suffice if the hoses were braided and of better quality.

I got fed up with it as I pulled a car hauler quite a bit. So I went with braided lines, Brembo rotors, Cardon calipers w/steel piston replacements. Also went with quality pads. Best I ever used was Carquest Blues w/copper. No noise, no brake dust, -none! She brakes like new and stays that way.

 

Thanks for the info Jbrew.
I purchased my 1997 4.2 XL just to haul stuff for yard and house. Cruise, interior lights and many other small things were not working. brakes were spongy and pedal would go down before the brake would work. I gradually learned (with the help of members on this forum) causes for each symptom and slowly bringing everything back to working condition. Thus far I have replaced, front brake pads, cruise switch, several fuses, door chime repair, all four shocks; new RABS valve and module and took it to mechanic to replace Lower ball joints. Replaced Brake Master Cylinder twice. The first one shorted out and caused RABS and Brake light to stay on. Also replaced tank straps as well. It runs fairly decent now and is my daily driver. Last replacement is headlights. Next step is upgrade brakes with decent rotors, front brake line and rear brake shoes and hardware.

You are right about the poor quality of parts Ford used on this truck. Where did you purchase the Brembo rotors and braided lines?

Thanks in advance.

 

the disadvantages of having an 02. Learned something new yet again