I wonder if using oxygenated fuel (ethel - methel... types) would cause a lean reading.....?????

 

For an '03, it should be CJB fuse F2.

It's the only on that's "ALWAYS HOT" that I see.

 

That usually indicates either a faulty EGR valve or clogged EGR ports. Clogged ports are, by a wide margin, the most common. EGR valves don't fail very often. This will NOT cause "lean" codes. You can pull the EGR valve and perform a visual inspection while pulling the vacuum on the valve to see if the valve operates properly.


E10 or E15, no. E85 in a non-FFV vehicle, yes.

 

x2

look into cleaning that egr or possibly replacing it. when vacuum is applied to the egr, there SHOULD be a drop in rpm. since you applied vacuum and there was no change, either the egr is really dirty and stuck...or it's faulty. not that it will fix your codes, but you might as well clean it

 

CJB is the underdash fuse box, right?

 

I did clean the EGR valve last night truck is running better. Also the MOTORCRAFT MAF has helped as well. When I changed the MAF I disconnected the bat and let it do its thing. So far the light has stayed off!! Thanks to all that have hepled especially you Red for the pic of the DPFE

 

It usually takes TWO consecutive drive cycles in which a fault is detected to turn on the MIL.

Be patient and drive it a few days before getting excited.

 

Yes. The under-hood box is named the Battery Junction Box (BJB).

 

I just spent the last two months tracking these codes on mine. I finally found that it was EGR related. I didnt **** around with which piece, just went to autozone and bought EGR valve, EGR solenoid and the dpfe sensor. Problem solved, no more codes...

All 3 pieces cost around $137 bucks.

 

Well the damn light came on AGAIN when I was on my way to the local drive thru to get dinner. My od said 166666! I think my truck is POSESSED!! I could FEEL that the light was about to come on! I AM SO FREAKING TIRED OF CHASING THIS DAMN CODE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I may break down like the poster above said and just purchase a new EGR,DPFE and a EGR solinoid! I HATE THIS CONSTANT NEVER ENDING STRUGGLE W/ THIS STUPID CODE!!!! Sorry for the rant I'm just so freaking PISSED OFF right now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

how did you found out that it was egr related? was a specific egr code set or did you have the 171@174 codes?

 

No EGR code was thrown on mine. I , like you had been chasing my tail with these damned po171 and po174 codes...checking for vacuum leaks, knowing that I didnt have any.

I saw on the forums after searching that someone replaced their IAC valve and that fixed theirs. Well I run to the parts store and had to shell out $110 for this part. I replaced it and thought it was fixed. WRONG!!! Not in my case. I was freakin pissed that I blew my money like that on a non returnable part. I was about to give up when my Uncle talked to me and told me that he works part time at a Ford dealership now that he retired from his main job. To make a long story short, he works with a master Ford mechanic that told me on the phone, 9 times out of ten its gonna be EGR related!!!!

He said that you have 3 components that operate the EGR process.
EGR valve, solenoid and dpfe sensor.

His advice was to find out which one was causing the issue but guaranteed I would find it among those 3.

I didnt want to spend time and gas running back and forth to the parts store for each individual part so I just got all 3.

Which made sence after seeing the shape my old units were in. I justified it as preventive maintenance. I flashed the code and no light has returned.
Truck runs great and has more power, uses less gas too.

Let me know what you find out.

 

Thank You! that was the EXCACT thing I wanted to hear!! Somone like myself has had the same problems w/ their truck!! My problems started in May of last year when I had a MAF go bad- I knew it was the MAF bc one of the fillaments on the OE sensor was gone! So I purchased a MAF from parts store, threw the same codes Dec of last year so I excanged the MAF under warrenty. That worked for about two weeks. Light came on again so returned junk MAF and got one from a dealer lo and behold the damned light came on again last night!!

At one point I did have a code for the upstream ox sensor. Replaced those and light stayed off for a a while then the gremlin came back!!

I am planning on replacing all 3 associated w/ the EGR system today!! The EGR valve, solinoid and the DPFE sensor!! I have never attempted to change this before. The last egr valve I had changed was on my 91 Mustang GT w/ the 5.0{I miss that ride} And that was not too hard. Can I expect about the same when changing the egr on my truck?

Also I do hear kind of a "clicking" sound comming from the left bank of the engine on occaison while pulling on a grade. Could this be the EGR sticking somhow?

 

It is really straight forward and simple, especially if you have done it on a stang. Just a couple small nuts / bolts holding them on and the electrical plugs. The EGR itself will also have the big metal nut to remove...mine came right off with no problems.

Also, YES... the clicking tapping sound can come from the EGR valve being stuck open. It can also be from other things so dont hold me to that.

Keep us informed on the install of these items and yell if ya need any help / advice.

Later

 

I HIGHLY recommend you use only a Motorcraft DPFE. Aftermarket ones have a history of early failures.