First off my truck is a 2000 f150 7700 with 5.4

So I am looking at a larger (25ft) camper and would like to be able to monitor my transmission temps. Ok, so after doing a search on this yesterday and reading the threads on all ten pages, still had a couple questions. First off I decided I would like to install the sensor for the new gauge in the test port. My problem is that I am not sure if I have the same tranny as regular talf tons and the location of the test port. Second of all, what is the "normal" range for tranny temps. I see some gauges go to 250 and others to 300 degrees. Thanks in adv
ance.

 

Yes, you do have a different tranny. You have a 4R100W. Much better tranny.

What's displayed on the gauge does not dictate your normal range. What you need to do is get your gauge installed and learn your normal range on your truck. Get the install done and then just drive normally. If your tranny is in great shape now, you'll get a feel for what's normal and how it's running. Then, you be able to instantly recognize a problem or something. Learn how it runs both before and during towing.

Your question is too vague to give you numbers on for many, many reasons but the biggest reason is not many trucks with your tranny running around to compare.

 

Kind of what I figured. What about the test port? Is there one on this tranny as well?

 

Can a Scangauge in the OBD2 port read out the tranny temp on that one? If so, that's a real easy way to do it.

 

Tranny temps will pretty much mirror coolant temp while driving normal. When towing you'll see them rise probably around the 210 mark. Anything much more than that and you need an axillary unit to help cool it down. Be sure to get one that has a thermostat on it as you can cool the fluid too much in the winter. Never allow ATF temps to exceed 230F. If it gets that hot, pull over and let the truck idle in gear until the temp drops.

 

Let me add some from experience.
There are three areas you can monitor temperature.
All three will give different dynamic temperature ranges and action.
First, a monitor just out of the converter will show the highest temperatures in a high load un-lock condition because you see the fluid shear temps right away.
At this point the temps can go well above 240° for the duration of the loading and begin to lower quite quickly as the load and trans lock come back on.
In the test port area, you will see a slower response and somewhat lower peak temps because you are seeing more of the case temp affect along with the fluid temperature but he highest temps are still going on out of the converter.
With the pan monitor you will see the lowest temps and tend to be quite stable and range slowly not reflecting much about the faster changes actually taking place as above.
A larger pan, while holding more fluid takes longer to heat up and stablize but adds very little to the overall lowering of the average fluid temperature once it stablizes.
As well it will take longer to allow the fluid to reach stable temperature from a winter cold start that inhibits OD until the valve body gets up to temperature.
It's true the radiator being the first place to fluid goes to from the converter will tend to set to overall fluid temp unless an external cooler is used.
Expect about a 40° drop through a cooler before the fluid returns back to the return port where it cools and lubes other parts and picking up some heat again before dropping into the pan.
As for max fluid temps, it depends on how high and how long before the fluid suffers breakdown.
Moral of that is to keep a check on the fluid conditions very often and change it when used under that much stress that you detect a smell and or color changes.
Anything above 260 for any length of time repeated, is a question waiting for an answer.
Good luck.

 

Ok, so I found the test port and have my new autometer gauge. Planning on installing in the next few days. Another question before I start though. What do you guys use on the threads of new sensor to keep it from leaking after install. Also, where is the best location to tap into the parking lights power supply, to power the autometer light.

 

Ok, what about5 a good switched 12v power source to turn the gauge on when started?

 

I used a wire from the heater controls to power the light in my gauge. I can't remember what color it was though. That way I could use the dimmer on it aswell. As for power. Any connection would work.

 

I have a truck similar to yours. My tranny temp is in the temp port also. I have attached a picture of mine after a normal drive. Water 198. Tranny 145-150.
tranny temp ran to 200-210 when I towed a Lincoln Navigator for three hours . Total weight according to truck scale was just over 13,000 pounds. I had 4.56 gears with 285/75/16s at that time. I am going to install an F250 tranny cooler ,just for a little extra insurance.


Rus

 

Rus...I absolutely love that gauge mount. What is it?? Just an overhead console out of the same year Expedition as your truck? Where'd you get the pod?

 

The Pod is a custom made piece by MMcustomworks in Orlando Florida. He is on the Lightning site ,LightningRodder.com. He is making a new run of these for the Expedition overhead consoles. He does a few special pods for the 97-03 F150s. I have another set in mind for my center console.

http://www.lightningrodder.com/forum...ead.php?t=6037

 

Finally got it done thanks in large part to this site and you guys help. I seen one mounted just to the right of steering wheel on here and I really liked it. Im tall and with the truck in drive it just barely covers the trim ring of gauge from my point of view. Now to drive and monitor the temps and find my normal. Thanks guys

 

So I am assuming I have a bad ground but am open for suggestins. Wired everything up last night and appeared to be working. This morning driving to work everything was screwey. 1st off, I have driving lights wired in with power from the baterry and grounded to the parking brake assembly under dash. I got my power for new gauge from fuse panel and used same ground as was used for driving lights. I got power for the gauge light coming from the parking lights so it only lights up when headlights are turned on and used same ground as I did for the rest.
I think the power from parking lights is backfeeding the rest of my added electronics. When I turn on the headlights my driving lights switch now illuminates like they are turned on and my new tranny gauge works only with lights on but the backlight for the gauge does not turn on. My assumbtion is the grounds all tied together is my problem. Any suggestions?

 

I would check your full on power and your backlight wiring. Sounds like tranny temp power is connected to driving light switch power