99 with 00 5.4L
Just got my first CEL since the swap a few months back. Took it on a 320 mile round trip this weekend. Longest trip its been on since the swap also. On the way home, this popped up.
P0155
B2S1

Checked all the connections and they are good. Went to take a peek at the tail pipe out of curiosity and found thick black soot at the pipe. Very noticeable. Going to change the sensor out in a few days. But for now, why would I be running rich. Never seen the black soot on the tail pipe as thick as it was, and I wash the truck at least once a week and would have noticed it. Never see any smoke on start ups, cold or operating temp. Only mod to the motor is the Gotts mod, pcm was reset afterwards. And the magnapacks. There has been a very very slight (apparently I am the only one who can hear it) exhaust leak on the drivers side manifold at heavy neutral rev. And that ticking that I cannot find on the drivers side which with the stethoscope seemed to be loudest at the cat (02??)
Not concerned about replacing the sensor or hunting down a short.
Worried about the rich condition with no CEL.
Any way I can confirm it is running rich? Other than pulling the plugs. Which was just done about 2 weeks ago and they all looked great, just a light brownish color.

Either way, the white water rafting was fun as hell. Good times

 

If you change the driver's side upstream sensor, you might as well change the other side too.

You are running rich because the sensor has failed and it's running a default fuel/air map, which is rich to prevent it from leaning out and causing worse damage.

 

Heater Circuit Malfunction:

Receiving DTC P0155 (HO2S Heater),-some additional work can be done to pinpoint the cause. It's said that a wiring problem would shoot more that just the 155. PO155 points to a sensor fault.

Personally, I check the wires anyway. There are only three main splices in the wiring between the PCM and the HO2S heaters and the following diagram will be useful:



Splice A provides the power for both upstream and downstream sensors. A wiring problem with this splice will produce the DTCs P0135/ P0155, P0141/P0161 together.

Splice B provides the power to the Upstream (front) sensor(s) and generates the DTC P0135/P0155

Splice C provides the power to the downstream sensor(s) and will produce the DTC P0141/P0161

 

Thanks, didn't know about the default air/fuel map when a sensor fails. Makes sense.
Thanks for a diagram jbrew. Ill check those connections today and if all check out, place my order for new upstreams.

 

Got some time today to go over the splices and everything looks good so I'm going to grab some new 02's. Question is, Ive heard a few talk about motorcraft 02's vs. Bosch. Are these the right motorcraft ones? The ones in there now say ford on them but are bosch. Same with the other set I have for a 00. So bosch sounds fine with me, just curious since the price is basically the same... is it worth grabbing the motorcraft or not.

For some reason it wont post the actual order page, here is the Rock Auto catalog where you will see motorcraft and bosch 02's for a 99 5.4
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

They don't exactly specify other than it saying "front" if they are uppers or lowers. There is only one type listed under motorcraft. The bosches list "up stream" "down stream"

Thanks

 

That link didn't work out. But the only difference in O2's for your truck is harness length. Other than that , their the same sensor. So you can switch the fronts with the rears at any time, -if they have a long enough harness. My originals were swappable.

But yea, it's just harness length. If Motocraft lists just one, - that makes sense to me, because my OEM front and rears have about the same harness length.

I've read the Motorcrafts are stable compared to the OEM Bosch. Justin has a graph with the differences.

 

Ahh gotcha, didn't know that. I have an almost new set of up stream and down streams for a 00 5.4L laying around. When I looked them up, the uppers for the 00 have a different part number than the 99 so I didnt want to use them. But the lowers share the same part number from 97-03. So maybe I can just throw those in there. Or maybe I'm just being cheap.

 

97-98 might be a little different, - might! Probably not.

99-03 are the same.

 

Hmm, you sure? I was just looking at the uppers and lowers and they sure look different. These are from a 00. One on the left is the upstream. Right is the downstream.

 

The one on the right happens to look like the one I put in the fronts of my 97 (bosch, napa counterman choice)

The one on the left looks like what I couldn't pull out from upstreams. I'll be watching to see if you find anything.

 

One on the left is a NGK or NTK rather, -same thing except, that isn't OEM.

Exhaust gases should spin around the ceramic inside. That's why the Bosch (on the right) has a louvered heat shield; -for that spinning effect.. The NTK's just get nailed and aren't as accurate when reporting to the PCM. The NTK can and usually will say "Ford" right on their sensor, as they claim to be OEM suppliers. This does not mean they are endorsed by Ford Motor Company. Put it this way,-Fram claims the same thing.

That's just my opinion from what I've read in the past about these sensors. Other than that, I have been running rear sensors in my truck for a couple years now, - I needed O2's w/long one piece harness for my LT's. I didn't want to splice or run extenders because the O2 wires themselves are sensitive. So I purchased rears because they offered the longer harness x 2". Great performance and 16 mpg city. I only get 16 mpg highway, but that's on cruise @ 78-79 mph.

Yea, I'm 100% sure.

 

Never doubted yah , just hit with the whoa when I saw the difference in the 2.
It is an NTK, part number xc2f-9f472-a1a and does say ford. That came out of the truck with 10k on it, surprised it wouldn't be OEM. After looking at the ones on my truck, they are the same NTK up front and Bosch in the back. But I don't know if anyone's ever changed them. I'm going to order new ones for the rear, for up front, in case I happen to wake up one day to check the mail and find LT's sitting on my porch.

I wish I could cruise at 80. Fastest speed limit around here is 65 with patrol every few miles. I swear this city gets 90% of its revenue from traffic tickets. When you do get a ticket and appear for it, there is always a 50 person long line at the counter. And those are just the people who got ticketed that same day you are there for. I think I hold the records around this town though. I stopped counting after paying off a lump sum of $4,800 in one day to 5 different counties in traffic fines. That was just to get my license back. There was an accumulative amount over the last 15 years of atleast that, if not more so I would put an estimate of around 10k in traffic fines, not including DMV fees every time I had to reinstate my license, Impound fees or insurance sr22's. There was 1 stop I left with 2200 in fines. Reckless driving, driving while suspended, no insurance, speeding in a safety corridor and failure to yield. Which all the fines were double because of the safety corridor. I was driving in a snow storm heading to go snowboarding... Went through a little frozen over town where the speed limit reduced from 55 to 30, he clocked me at 79 after I blew through a yellow light and around the car in front who decided to stop. Threw her sideways through the intersection, washed around a bit and got it back straight about the time he hit his lights. But that's all over with, haven't had a ticket in 3 years now. I'll stick to the 65, 68ish if I am feeling lucky.

 

After looking at Rock Auto. The numbers on the NTK I have matches the number they are advertising as a "motorcraft" part for the "front"
xc2f-9f472-a1a

All the numbers are messed up. I look up motorcraft For the 00 it lists it as xl3f-9f472, the 99 shows xc2f-9f472. So the sensors I pulled from a 00 match the numbers for a 99.

 

XC2F-9F472AA = Front
F85F-9G444BA = Rear
-75F-9G444BA = Rear

You need a "9F472" for the front "9G444" for the rear. The letter(s) that follow number signifies revision.

Actual =

DY-1039 5C5Z9F472AA = Front
DY-1093 F85Z9G444BA = Rear

Rear difference is harness length.


So, do you think the NTK's is the original sensors installed at the factory ? Sounds like it's possible from you and Klitch. If so, that's the first I've heard of it, but I can't rule it out completely. I've never seen an NTK as original equipment.

Anyway, -Part#'s Reference = http://www.tomco-inc.com/Catalog/c13%20oem2.pdf ------------ pg. 4

 

So these are the ones I just took out of the 99 with 125k on it, which I know nothing about the maintenance or whether these are original or have been changed. I can say that the one from the drivers side appears to have factory clips on it. They both seem to be oddly long wired for being fronts.
pictured left to right
upstream pulled from 00 with 10k miles
passenger upstream just pulled from 99
drivers upstream just pulled from 99
downstream from 00
Both 99 and 00 upstreams are NTK, whether they are original is unknown, but possible? Since the 00 only had 10k miles and the 99 has some factory clips.


Note the 3rd from left is the drivers upstream that the original CEL was indicating, it has a big white burnt spot on it, compared to the passenger side.

My parents have a 00 with low miles and original owners. I'm going to check what it has up front next time I get a chance.
I placed my order for new 02's but for now I used the downstreams (pictured right) from the 00 I had laying around until the new ones come it. I have a long road trip this weekend and didn't want to drive it on that bad drivers side 02.