For those who had the plastic break at the adjuster wheel on the cable for the gear selector pointer, I found a simple repair using a corner bracket from a hardware store. I searched here for other fixes which said to use zip ties, but this took away the ajustability and the pointer was off a bit. This repair maintains that ajustability and is permanent (no more plastic breaking)

I drew the procedure on paper below.



Use the smallest Stanley corner bracket. Be sure to chock the wheels when you unhook the cable by placing the gear shift at 2 (all the way down)

Here are photos of how it looks installed, sorry for the blurry pics, but this is the best my camera can do.





I hope this can help someone with this problem, it cost me $0.45. You will not have to buy the whole cable.

 

Hello again,
I didn't discover till this AM that you had so thoughtfully posted this really helpful information, though unfortunately even with magnification the detailed diagram is dificult to read especially the text. I had posted a reply on my original thread regarding any tips for the removal of the necessary column covers to effectively access the cable and would be greatfull for your input.
Thank you very much once again

 

The repair is simple

I can't make the image larger, but you can see the corner bracket and the two cuts and one bend. Basicaly you ar taking a 4 hole corner bracket and making it a two hole bracket, enlarging the holes so that it slips over the adjuster screw. You will need to bend it 20 degrees and adjust a needed , but I think that is clear in the photo.

The words on the image are:
1) unhook loop, chock wheels, put selector in position 2, grab cable and unhook
2) remove broken piece
3) slide enlarged hole of repair piece over loop and onto the adusting screw
4) remove bolt and secure other end of reapir piece to top of plastic piece.
5) replace loop on shifter
6) adjust pointer as necessary

Now to remove dash pieces

The one over the steering colum just snaps in, just pull it out
Then the bottom one has several screws, some hidden by the top piece , and some under the dash, once removed it comes out easily, and all is exposed to work on.

 

I repeated the steps of the repair piece in order of sequence, however I did not enlarge the holes which will be necessary.

Original store bought piece

Cut off ends

Roundoff sharp edges

Bend 20 degrees, pay attention to the direction of bend on the piece

Another view

With enlarged holes, you are ready to slip the piece over the cable and bolt it down using the existing bolt that secures the original plasitic adjuster as in the photo below



Hope this clears up any confusion about the slopy photos I posted above.

 

Thanks again,
Yes this very much clears things up and I really appreciate the information. Can't wait to get into this repair!

 

The end of the repair piece that goes onto the bolt is up in the air in my photo. If you do not want to unhook the cable, you can cut a channel from the edge to the hole on the other end using a hacksaw. Then you can use this channel to slip over the cable and seat it on to the adjuster screw.

Two drawbacks are that the edge will be sharp and if you are not careful, you may cut the cable and the second is the broken piece will still be on the cable which can be cut out.

 

Mission complete and very sucessful, thank you very much!

 

very interesting.. if mine hadn't been replaced under warrenty way back when this would really help..

 

Glad this worked out for you. Hope this will help more members out.