'00 2wd Leveling Kit Install
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Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Lubbock, TX
'00 2wd Leveling Kit Install
From what i've read and what a few have told me is that a 2.5" leveling kit will require new control arms.. and that a 1.5" will not.
If this is the case, then I'm going to buy the Daystar 1.5" leveling kit for ~$40 and do the install myself. With the 1.5" level I should be able to run 285/70/16's which is roughly a 31.7" tire.To be able to run a 33" 285/75/16 I would need a 2.5" leveling kit. These are according to daystar.
Question 1: Can I run 285/70/16's with a 1.5" leveling kit?
2: Do I actually need new control arms for a 2.5" kit?
3: I'm going to buy a Ranch Hand grille guard this summer and they weight in at just over a 100lbs, if I had to get new control arms to compensate for the lift, would this extra weight drop it down enough in the front to get rid of the need for new control arms?
If all goes well this install would take place within the next 2 weeks in my buddys garage as my garage is a dorm parking lot. I know that I would need a coil compressor, but are there any other special tools needed?
If this is the case, then I'm going to buy the Daystar 1.5" leveling kit for ~$40 and do the install myself. With the 1.5" level I should be able to run 285/70/16's which is roughly a 31.7" tire.To be able to run a 33" 285/75/16 I would need a 2.5" leveling kit. These are according to daystar.
Question 1: Can I run 285/70/16's with a 1.5" leveling kit?
2: Do I actually need new control arms for a 2.5" kit?
3: I'm going to buy a Ranch Hand grille guard this summer and they weight in at just over a 100lbs, if I had to get new control arms to compensate for the lift, would this extra weight drop it down enough in the front to get rid of the need for new control arms?
If all goes well this install would take place within the next 2 weeks in my buddys garage as my garage is a dorm parking lot. I know that I would need a coil compressor, but are there any other special tools needed?
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Walnut Creek,Ca
anything over 2"s of spring lift requires new upper control arms because it pushes them too far out of alignment to be put back to stock specs and therefore bad wear and suspension and tires. This will change a little with the extra weight up front but I can pretty much guarantee that it will not be enough to not dictate new control arms.
I have never seen a 285/70/16- there are 285/70/17s though. If you go with the 1.5" spacer and stock wheels you can run 285/75/16s with minimal rubbing if any at all.
However the coil spacers settle over time so what looks level when you first install it will settle to about a 1/2" lower in the front (done it with both trucks I've installed them on) plus with the weight of the bumper you might want to look into a true set of 2" lift springs (stiffer than stock from what I hear so will be able to handle the weight better) or a lift spindle to get 3.5"s of lift.
You don’t need anything special besides metric sockets, jack, jackstand, spring compressor(not needed but makes it safer, just lower the jack when its on the lower control arm slowly to let off the spring pressure however it would make re-installation easier.) A ball joint separator is also needed. Youll need bearing grease to repack the bearings, a cotter pin, probably a breaker bar and tons of WD-40 or Pb blaster which should be sprayed on the night before
Do yourself a favor and get a Chilton’s or Haynes manual
I have never seen a 285/70/16- there are 285/70/17s though. If you go with the 1.5" spacer and stock wheels you can run 285/75/16s with minimal rubbing if any at all.
However the coil spacers settle over time so what looks level when you first install it will settle to about a 1/2" lower in the front (done it with both trucks I've installed them on) plus with the weight of the bumper you might want to look into a true set of 2" lift springs (stiffer than stock from what I hear so will be able to handle the weight better) or a lift spindle to get 3.5"s of lift.
You don’t need anything special besides metric sockets, jack, jackstand, spring compressor(not needed but makes it safer, just lower the jack when its on the lower control arm slowly to let off the spring pressure however it would make re-installation easier.) A ball joint separator is also needed. Youll need bearing grease to repack the bearings, a cotter pin, probably a breaker bar and tons of WD-40 or Pb blaster which should be sprayed on the night before
Do yourself a favor and get a Chilton’s or Haynes manual
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,226
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From: Walnut Creek,Ca
I only ran 265/75/16's(32") on aftermarket wheels when i had just the coil spacer and i never had a problem and it looked good. There are other guys running stock wheels,285's and just coil spacers so hopefully theyll chime in. I think there might be slight rubbing on the control arm at full lock but Im not sure.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,138
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From: Oklahoma
I just used a floor jack under the lower arm (carefully and slowly) and didnt need a spring compressor. The coil didnt even act like it was going to pop out on me. You'll also for sure need a big ol' hammer to whack the spindle to get the upper balljoint out of it. A small sledge would be best. Breaker bar and PB makes it easier too
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2008
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I only ran 265/75/16's(32") on aftermarket wheels when i had just the coil spacer and i never had a problem and it looked good. There are other guys running stock wheels,285's and just coil spacers so hopefully theyll chime in. I think there might be slight rubbing on the control arm at full lock but Im not sure.
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,970
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From: Huntsville/Cypress, TX
anything over 2"s of spring lift requires new upper control arms because it pushes them too far out of alignment to be put back to stock specs and therefore bad wear and suspension and tires. This will change a little with the extra weight up front but I can pretty much guarantee that it will not be enough to not dictate new control arms.
I have never seen a 285/70/16- there are 285/70/17s though. If you go with the 1.5" spacer and stock wheels you can run 285/75/16s with minimal rubbing if any at all.
However the coil spacers settle over time so what looks level when you first install it will settle to about a 1/2" lower in the front (done it with both trucks I've installed them on) plus with the weight of the bumper you might want to look into a true set of 2" lift springs (stiffer than stock from what I hear so will be able to handle the weight better) or a lift spindle to get 3.5"s of lift.
You don’t need anything special besides metric sockets, jack, jackstand, spring compressor(not needed but makes it safer, just lower the jack when its on the lower control arm slowly to let off the spring pressure however it would make re-installation easier.) A ball joint separator is also needed. Youll need bearing grease to repack the bearings, a cotter pin, probably a breaker bar and tons of WD-40 or Pb blaster which should be sprayed on the night before
Do yourself a favor and get a Chilton’s or Haynes manual
I have never seen a 285/70/16- there are 285/70/17s though. If you go with the 1.5" spacer and stock wheels you can run 285/75/16s with minimal rubbing if any at all.
However the coil spacers settle over time so what looks level when you first install it will settle to about a 1/2" lower in the front (done it with both trucks I've installed them on) plus with the weight of the bumper you might want to look into a true set of 2" lift springs (stiffer than stock from what I hear so will be able to handle the weight better) or a lift spindle to get 3.5"s of lift.
You don’t need anything special besides metric sockets, jack, jackstand, spring compressor(not needed but makes it safer, just lower the jack when its on the lower control arm slowly to let off the spring pressure however it would make re-installation easier.) A ball joint separator is also needed. Youll need bearing grease to repack the bearings, a cotter pin, probably a breaker bar and tons of WD-40 or Pb blaster which should be sprayed on the night before
Do yourself a favor and get a Chilton’s or Haynes manual
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Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 111
Likes: 1
From: Houston, Texas
IMO i coil spring compressor makes the job 10 times easier. Dont use a tie rod seperator unless your planning on replacing the tie rods because i made that mistake.
WD40 and a small sledge are very helpful too!!
WD40 and a small sledge are very helpful too!!
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,423
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From: Mountain City, North Carolina
Just as an FYi I got Procomp RoughCountry shocks for 0-2 inches of lift and mine still over extend, which is a bitch. Makes speed bumps horrible plus bridges so you may want to get the ones taylored to 4 inches of lift.
