How-To: Install Drop Shackles on your 1997-2003 F-150
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From: Friendswood, Texas
nice write up, about time you got this done!
my truck didnt need the shims, but then again drop shackles didnt drop my truck as much as they drop yalls extended cabs
im going to try and find a shop that can check my pinion angle here soon, you may want to do the same if youre concerned.
So can you describe this vibration? I tried shifting through gears and punching in neutral and felt the same thing, I was thinking road bumps. I ran up to about 70 and I *think* I felt a vibration. I think it may be that I'm afraid there is one and since I'm actually trying to feel one that I detect it.
im going to try and find a shop that can check my pinion angle here soon, you may want to do the same if youre concerned.
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From: DFW
Few points to note, that you may have left out unintentionally.
1. For maximum drop, and for longevity of the bushing, you need to lower the weight of the truck onto the shackle before doing final torque down. If you tighten them before hand when you set the truck down, it will stretch and tear the bushings slightly.
2. Pinion angle shims are always needed, with drop shackles you are altering the pinion angle, so you need a shim to correct it.
3. Measure before and after as derek already mentioned, just for satisfaction
4. Every shackle ive seen has a 2" setting and a 1.5" setting not a 1" setting. Also in your case you'd have to flip the shackle around 180 so the leaf spring can clear the shackle if you decide to go to the higher ride hole
As a side note i really hate to see you using the bottle jack like that, they are much better then scissor jacks, but still can be very dangerous. Ive actually lost a car off a bottle jack before because it wasn't chalked properly and it rolled slightly and tipped the bottle jack over. Luckily i wasn't under the car.
All this being said, pretty good writeup, but there is a little faster way to do it, but thats another time and place
1. For maximum drop, and for longevity of the bushing, you need to lower the weight of the truck onto the shackle before doing final torque down. If you tighten them before hand when you set the truck down, it will stretch and tear the bushings slightly.
2. Pinion angle shims are always needed, with drop shackles you are altering the pinion angle, so you need a shim to correct it.
3. Measure before and after as derek already mentioned, just for satisfaction
4. Every shackle ive seen has a 2" setting and a 1.5" setting not a 1" setting. Also in your case you'd have to flip the shackle around 180 so the leaf spring can clear the shackle if you decide to go to the higher ride hole
As a side note i really hate to see you using the bottle jack like that, they are much better then scissor jacks, but still can be very dangerous. Ive actually lost a car off a bottle jack before because it wasn't chalked properly and it rolled slightly and tipped the bottle jack over. Luckily i wasn't under the car.
All this being said, pretty good writeup, but there is a little faster way to do it, but thats another time and place
Few points to note, that you may have left out unintentionally.
1. For maximum drop, and for longevity of the bushing, you need to lower the weight of the truck onto the shackle before doing final torque down. If you tighten them before hand when you set the truck down, it will stretch and tear the bushings slightly.
2. Pinion angle shims are always needed, with drop shackles you are altering the pinion angle, so you need a shim to correct it.
3. Measure before and after as derek already mentioned, just for satisfaction
4. Every shackle ive seen has a 2" setting and a 1.5" setting not a 1" setting. Also in your case you'd have to flip the shackle around 180 so the leaf spring can clear the shackle if you decide to go to the higher ride hole
As a side note i really hate to see you using the bottle jack like that, they are much better then scissor jacks, but still can be very dangerous. Ive actually lost a car off a bottle jack before because it wasn't chalked properly and it rolled slightly and tipped the bottle jack over. Luckily i wasn't under the car.
All this being said, pretty good writeup, but there is a little faster way to do it, but thats another time and place
1. For maximum drop, and for longevity of the bushing, you need to lower the weight of the truck onto the shackle before doing final torque down. If you tighten them before hand when you set the truck down, it will stretch and tear the bushings slightly.
2. Pinion angle shims are always needed, with drop shackles you are altering the pinion angle, so you need a shim to correct it.
3. Measure before and after as derek already mentioned, just for satisfaction
4. Every shackle ive seen has a 2" setting and a 1.5" setting not a 1" setting. Also in your case you'd have to flip the shackle around 180 so the leaf spring can clear the shackle if you decide to go to the higher ride hole
As a side note i really hate to see you using the bottle jack like that, they are much better then scissor jacks, but still can be very dangerous. Ive actually lost a car off a bottle jack before because it wasn't chalked properly and it rolled slightly and tipped the bottle jack over. Luckily i wasn't under the car.
All this being said, pretty good writeup, but there is a little faster way to do it, but thats another time and place
Nice write up Raptor.
Being a female and having never done this before, I probably would not have appreciated this article but for the fact of having had the opportunity to watch Patrick and the crew do this to my truck last month. (Kudos to you guys again!)
Being a female and having never done this before, I probably would not have appreciated this article but for the fact of having had the opportunity to watch Patrick and the crew do this to my truck last month. (Kudos to you guys again!)
Few points to note, that you may have left out unintentionally.
1. For maximum drop, and for longevity of the bushing, you need to lower the weight of the truck onto the shackle before doing final torque down. If you tighten them before hand when you set the truck down, it will stretch and tear the bushings slightly.
2. Pinion angle shims are always needed, with drop shackles you are altering the pinion angle, so you need a shim to correct it.
3. Measure before and after as derek already mentioned, just for satisfaction
4. Every shackle ive seen has a 2" setting and a 1.5" setting not a 1" setting. Also in your case you'd have to flip the shackle around 180 so the leaf spring can clear the shackle if you decide to go to the higher ride hole
As a side note i really hate to see you using the bottle jack like that, they are much better then scissor jacks, but still can be very dangerous. Ive actually lost a car off a bottle jack before because it wasn't chalked properly and it rolled slightly and tipped the bottle jack over. Luckily i wasn't under the car.
All this being said, pretty good writeup, but there is a little faster way to do it, but thats another time and place
1. For maximum drop, and for longevity of the bushing, you need to lower the weight of the truck onto the shackle before doing final torque down. If you tighten them before hand when you set the truck down, it will stretch and tear the bushings slightly.
2. Pinion angle shims are always needed, with drop shackles you are altering the pinion angle, so you need a shim to correct it.
3. Measure before and after as derek already mentioned, just for satisfaction
4. Every shackle ive seen has a 2" setting and a 1.5" setting not a 1" setting. Also in your case you'd have to flip the shackle around 180 so the leaf spring can clear the shackle if you decide to go to the higher ride hole
As a side note i really hate to see you using the bottle jack like that, they are much better then scissor jacks, but still can be very dangerous. Ive actually lost a car off a bottle jack before because it wasn't chalked properly and it rolled slightly and tipped the bottle jack over. Luckily i wasn't under the car.
All this being said, pretty good writeup, but there is a little faster way to do it, but thats another time and place
2.) what kind of shims would you suggest for me?
3.) I did a rough measure. before my wrist touching the bottom of the fender well and the tip of my finger would barely reach the top of my tire. afterwards the tip of my middle finger was approaching the white-letters on the side
4.) edited my article about that 1.5" thanks. i also noticed that too. but for what I have them on, they are the correct way, right?
being a poor college kid the OEM bottle jack was the only jack i had access to. if i were at my parents house I would of course had a shop jack and jack stands. but thats a diff story.
anyone have any notes on what was affected in my drop. hauling/towing wise?
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From: Burleson/Athens/Brownsboro, TX
1.) are you suggesting I go out and jack up the truck, loosen them, drop the truck and then retighten?
2.) what kind of shims would you suggest for me?
3.) I did a rough measure. before my wrist touching the bottom of the fender well and the tip of my finger would barely reach the top of my tire. afterwards the tip of my middle finger was approaching the white-letters on the side
4.) edited my article about that 1.5" thanks. i also noticed that too. but for what I have them on, they are the correct way, right?
being a poor college kid the OEM bottle jack was the only jack i had access to. if i were at my parents house I would of course had a shop jack and jack stands. but thats a diff story.
anyone have any notes on what was affected in my drop. hauling/towing wise?
2.) what kind of shims would you suggest for me?
3.) I did a rough measure. before my wrist touching the bottom of the fender well and the tip of my finger would barely reach the top of my tire. afterwards the tip of my middle finger was approaching the white-letters on the side
4.) edited my article about that 1.5" thanks. i also noticed that too. but for what I have them on, they are the correct way, right?
being a poor college kid the OEM bottle jack was the only jack i had access to. if i were at my parents house I would of course had a shop jack and jack stands. but thats a diff story.
anyone have any notes on what was affected in my drop. hauling/towing wise?
Don't EVER get under a vehicle without jackstands, not even with a floor jack. Under it with a bottle jack scares me to think about it. Next time, wait until you have the proper equipment. I have seen the results of a car falling off a jack with the guy under it. Was not pretty.
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Jim
Jim
You will never notice the difference in hauling/towing.
Don't EVER get under a vehicle without jackstands, not even with a floor jack. Under it with a bottle jack scares me to think about it. Next time, wait until you have the proper equipment. I have seen the results of a car falling off a jack with the guy under it. Was not pretty.
Don't EVER get under a vehicle without jackstands, not even with a floor jack. Under it with a bottle jack scares me to think about it. Next time, wait until you have the proper equipment. I have seen the results of a car falling off a jack with the guy under it. Was not pretty.
The rule of thumb is 1* per 1". Unless you have a pinion angle gauge.
Just search "Pinion Shim Kit" on Google, and the first link should go to Stylin' Trucks' website. That is where I got mine from. Cost just over $31 shipped.
Just search "Pinion Shim Kit" on Google, and the first link should go to Stylin' Trucks' website. That is where I got mine from. Cost just over $31 shipped.
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From: Burleson/Athens/Brownsboro, TX
One other bit of advice, lecture or whatever. I thought I could go on without saying it, but I failed. 
Do NOT EVER use a cinderblock to hold up the weight of a vehicle. Especially where all the weight will be concentrated in a small area like teh base of that jack, or even under a front wheel. Those things will crush and crumble with a surprisingly small amount of weight. They are designed to be used in conjuction with others like them and sharing the load. Not all that weight on one individual block. They are hollow!
I'm glad you were not hurt and it went well. Just be cautious and stay safe.
Do NOT EVER use a cinderblock to hold up the weight of a vehicle. Especially where all the weight will be concentrated in a small area like teh base of that jack, or even under a front wheel. Those things will crush and crumble with a surprisingly small amount of weight. They are designed to be used in conjuction with others like them and sharing the load. Not all that weight on one individual block. They are hollow!
I'm glad you were not hurt and it went well. Just be cautious and stay safe.
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Jim
Jim
Yeah, I did a tire rotation before moving here with just that bottle jack and its collapsed on me before. Knowing this my hands were the only thing reaching inside the fender to get the shots and change the shackles. 
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From: Huntsville/Cypress, TX
when i installed my belltech shackles, the instructions said to flip them around 180* like pat said. ive installed them on 3 trucks now and everyone one of them had them flipped around so that the open side was facing the springs.
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From: DFW
2* with the fat part towards the rear (unless you get it measured and it says otherwise)
yah there isnt really a right or wrong way for the 2" hole but if you use the 1.5" hole there is only one way it will go on the leafs
Thanks! One day I'd like to get our two together and get some shots. Isnt your lifted?
kinda pointless now, plus i dont want you back under that bottle jack
2* with the fat part towards the rear (unless you get it measured and it says otherwise)
Im sure i could do a lengthy math formula and figure out, but basically just remember you are 2" closer to the bumpstops then you were before so it will take less weight to get you on the bumpstops
yah there isnt really a right or wrong way for the 2" hole but if you use the 1.5" hole there is only one way it will go on the leafs
2* with the fat part towards the rear (unless you get it measured and it says otherwise)
Im sure i could do a lengthy math formula and figure out, but basically just remember you are 2" closer to the bumpstops then you were before so it will take less weight to get you on the bumpstops
yah there isnt really a right or wrong way for the 2" hole but if you use the 1.5" hole there is only one way it will go on the leafs