Power Locks - 2000 Supercab
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Alabama
Power Locks - 2000 Supercab
I know I should have taken pictures, but I did not. Here are some of the lessons I learned.
To remove the door panels, you do not need to empty the pockets. Pull on the front edge of the trim around the door handle to remove it. There will be one philips screw behind it. Pull up the front edge of the switch panel and remove the wires and set it aside. Pull the top rear inside window trim off above the door panel. There will be one more philips screw under it. Grab the door panel and lift it up and away. Peel the plastic lining back to get access to the holes in the door.
The power lock solenoid is a sealed unit that mounts on the latch mechanism. You will need to remove this assembly to replace it. Remove the torx screws on the end of the door that hold it in. There are 4 mechanical and 2 electrical connections to disconnect before you can remove the assembly and all have to be disconnected working inside the door.
The rod to the lock button can be removed by swinging the snap retainer back at the latch end and pulling the rod loose. You do not need to remove the rod any farther. The cable from the inside handle is a ball end. Swing the cable sheath to the inside of the door to get it free. Then pull the lever in the latch forward and work the ball loose. The Rod from the key lock, is easiest removed from the lock end. It requires gently prying the double plastic clips apart and unsnaping that end. I was then able to disconnect it the latch end and set it aside. Remember how this rod was oriented for re-assembly. The rod from the outside handle has a release that must be unhooked. Mine was yellow and white and hinges forward once the latch on it is tripped. This rod is threaded for adjustment, but is held in place by the plastic latch. Remember about how much thread was showing. The plastic tab must be tripped from the rear and is hard to get at. When you get it, it will swing out of the way on the hinge and let the rod out.
Lastly, unplug the two electric cables. You should then be able to snake the latch assembly out of the door.
The power lock module has a wide plastic trip lever under it that can be pryed up with a small screwdriver. With that lever up, use a larger flat blade screwdriver to pry the lock module off the latch. The new one will slide and lock into place. Remember there are two different modules, one for the left and one for the right door.
Then work it back into place and hook up all the rods and wires. It took me 2.5 hours to do the first one and 30 minutes to do the other once I had it figured out.
To remove the door panels, you do not need to empty the pockets. Pull on the front edge of the trim around the door handle to remove it. There will be one philips screw behind it. Pull up the front edge of the switch panel and remove the wires and set it aside. Pull the top rear inside window trim off above the door panel. There will be one more philips screw under it. Grab the door panel and lift it up and away. Peel the plastic lining back to get access to the holes in the door.
The power lock solenoid is a sealed unit that mounts on the latch mechanism. You will need to remove this assembly to replace it. Remove the torx screws on the end of the door that hold it in. There are 4 mechanical and 2 electrical connections to disconnect before you can remove the assembly and all have to be disconnected working inside the door.
The rod to the lock button can be removed by swinging the snap retainer back at the latch end and pulling the rod loose. You do not need to remove the rod any farther. The cable from the inside handle is a ball end. Swing the cable sheath to the inside of the door to get it free. Then pull the lever in the latch forward and work the ball loose. The Rod from the key lock, is easiest removed from the lock end. It requires gently prying the double plastic clips apart and unsnaping that end. I was then able to disconnect it the latch end and set it aside. Remember how this rod was oriented for re-assembly. The rod from the outside handle has a release that must be unhooked. Mine was yellow and white and hinges forward once the latch on it is tripped. This rod is threaded for adjustment, but is held in place by the plastic latch. Remember about how much thread was showing. The plastic tab must be tripped from the rear and is hard to get at. When you get it, it will swing out of the way on the hinge and let the rod out.
Lastly, unplug the two electric cables. You should then be able to snake the latch assembly out of the door.
The power lock module has a wide plastic trip lever under it that can be pryed up with a small screwdriver. With that lever up, use a larger flat blade screwdriver to pry the lock module off the latch. The new one will slide and lock into place. Remember there are two different modules, one for the left and one for the right door.
Then work it back into place and hook up all the rods and wires. It took me 2.5 hours to do the first one and 30 minutes to do the other once I had it figured out.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 297
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From: Salina,KS
Thats about right...same synopsis here. I did mine about 2 months ago and the first one took awhile too, mainly to figure out how it came apart. The second went must faster here too. good write up tho