1997 - 2003 F-150

Changed my Serpentine Belt today, shoulda been easier

Old Oct 12, 2009 | 03:26 PM
  #31  
KB3GZW's Avatar
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Joined: Dec 2008
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From: Lehigh Valley, Pa
Originally Posted by jbrew
Don't forget the tensionor, should replace those at the same time. Here's just one PDF about that, -

http://www.gates.com/file_display_co...3%2D0796%2Epdf
Gotcha thanks.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2009 | 05:01 PM
  #32  
jbrew's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: MI
Originally Posted by KB3GZW
Gotcha thanks.
No problem. - Don't worry if the new pully on the new tensionor has a tiny bit of play, - I know it doesn't seem right, but their suppose to.

A worn pulley doesn't always get loose and wobble, they get tight first, -and a little noisy. They sort of hum. With a new one, the play is hardly noticable, just so you know, -there is suppose to be some.

On the 98, I replaced all pulleys at the same time, - new belt as well.- What difference that makes in engine noise, - she's quiet again lol.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2010 | 11:19 AM
  #33  
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I have a 97 Econoline Super Duty with a V10 Triton motor. No mechanical experience whatsoever. Found this thread via Google search and it provided exactly what I needed to replace my shredded serpentine belt. The diagram at the beginning of this thread was essentially the same for my V10 motor.

Many thanks to those who take the time to share your knowledge. Saved me a lot of $.

Dan
 
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 04:18 PM
  #34  
Dennis Nicholls's Avatar
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Boise ID
Originally Posted by jbrew
Sandwich the belt /thread it between the tensioner pulley and idler pulley, head right for the AC pulley/ Grab the bottom, -loop around the crank and up around the W-pump then back down around the PS.

Everything's still loose right? - Position breaker bar into tensioner/Check that the belt is positioned properly on the pulleys correctly/ Pull the belt straight up tight with your thumb/ Crank the tensioner and thro the belt on the Alternator pulley - Done!
My 2001 with Romeo 4.6l V8 looks like jbrew's drawing EXCEPT no #5 idler on the driver's side.

To amplify his instructions:

Hold belt with grooved side inwards. Push a loop down between the #2 idler and the tensioner pulley from the top of the engine. Climb under and feed a loop over the #9 A/C pulley. Get back on top and push a second loop between the tensioner pulley and the #4 waterpump pulley. Climb under and feed a loop over the #7 crank pulley. Get on top and push a third loop over the #4 waterpump pulley down towards the P/S pump. Climb under and feed a loop over the #6 P/S pump pulley. Get back on top, use breaker bar to unload tensioner, and slip remaining slack over #3 alternator pulley. Check for fit on all pulleys and release the tensioner.

I had two problems. One was my breaker bar's "detent" ball wouldn't go into the square hole on the tensioner arm. Solution: take a file and slightly radius the corner of said hole corresponding to detent ball location. Second was the belt was getting hung up on a sheet metal bracket near the A/C pulley. Solution: climb under with flashlight and position belt to clear.

I found a 23" piece of 1x3 holds the cheater pipe on the breaker bar in place when positioned between the passenger side fender "crimp" and said cheater pipe. This permits use of both hands and also climbing back under to check the belt's fit on the pulleys.

I didn't have to remove any intake plumbing, fan shrouds, or whatnot, even though I have a mechanical fan hung off the waterpump pulley.
 

Last edited by Dennis Nicholls; Sep 21, 2010 at 04:37 PM.
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