Changed my Serpentine Belt today, shoulda been easier
There's also a routing diagram sticker right in front of you, unless it's been peeled off lol.
I got one somewhere ? Here it is -

Here's where you shove the 1/2" breaker bar into ("B"). A little trick - Take tension off ("A") the tensioner and wedge the b-bar against the R-Hose bracket to hold. Keeps it loose while you remove. -
I got one somewhere ? Here it is -

Here's where you shove the 1/2" breaker bar into ("B"). A little trick - Take tension off ("A") the tensioner and wedge the b-bar against the R-Hose bracket to hold. Keeps it loose while you remove. -
I can do a belt in under 5min. Its alot easier to pop the fan off, but ive got the tool to do that, so doesnt take any extra time to go get the fan tool.
Btw this is just one more reason to get Efans
Btw this is just one more reason to get Efans
There's also a routing diagram sticker right in front of you, unless it's been peeled off lol.
I got one somewhere ? Here it is -

Here's where you shove the 1/2" breaker bar into ("B"). A little trick - Take tension off ("A") the tensioner and wedge the b-bar against the R-Hose bracket to hold. Keeps it loose while you remove. -

I got one somewhere ? Here it is -

Here's where you shove the 1/2" breaker bar into ("B"). A little trick - Take tension off ("A") the tensioner and wedge the b-bar against the R-Hose bracket to hold. Keeps it loose while you remove. -

I found it easiest to use pulley #4 (water pump pulley) as the one I stretch the belt onto.
You guys are crazy, - are we talking the same trucks (97-03) 
The fans not that big of a problem
Unless?....!! - You guys have to shut the motor off first! 
Sandwich the belt /thread it between the tensioner pulley and idler pulley, head right for the AC pulley/ Grab the bottom, -loop around the crank and up around the W-pump then back down around the PS.
Everything's still loose right? - Position breaker bar into tensioner/Check that the belt is positioned properly on the pulleys correctly/ Pull the belt straight up tight with your thumb/ Crank the tensioner and thro the belt on the Alternator pulley - Done!
Like the diagram - Thread "A" toward "C" and "B" is already covered -

The fans not that big of a problem
Unless?....!! - You guys have to shut the motor off first! 
Sandwich the belt /thread it between the tensioner pulley and idler pulley, head right for the AC pulley/ Grab the bottom, -loop around the crank and up around the W-pump then back down around the PS.
Everything's still loose right? - Position breaker bar into tensioner/Check that the belt is positioned properly on the pulleys correctly/ Pull the belt straight up tight with your thumb/ Crank the tensioner and thro the belt on the Alternator pulley - Done!

Like the diagram - Thread "A" toward "C" and "B" is already covered -
Last edited by jbrew; Mar 20, 2009 at 01:46 AM.
Sandwich the belt /thread it between the tensioner pulley and idler pulley, head right for the AC pulley/ Grab the bottom, -loop around the crank and up around the W-pump then back down around the PS.
Everything's still loose right? - Position breaker bar into tensioner/Check that the belt is positioned properly on the pulleys correctly/ Pull the belt straight up tight with your thumb/ Crank the tensioner and thro the belt on the Alternator pulley - Done!
Like the diagram - Thread "A" toward "C" and "B" is already covered -

Everything's still loose right? - Position breaker bar into tensioner/Check that the belt is positioned properly on the pulleys correctly/ Pull the belt straight up tight with your thumb/ Crank the tensioner and thro the belt on the Alternator pulley - Done!

Like the diagram - Thread "A" toward "C" and "B" is already covered -

I'm so thankful we have serpentine belts. The old cars with 4 separate belts that needs loosening the alternator or something to remove and replace each one is the real pita.
I just changed mine on my 02 5.4. With the diagram on the front, it wasn't too bad. I used a pull handle instead of a ratchet to pull back the tensioner and I did put it on the top pulley last. I spent 10 or 15 minutes on it.
I just changed mine on my 02 5.4. With the diagram on the front, it wasn't too bad. I used a pull handle instead of a ratchet to pull back the tensioner and I did put it on the top pulley last. I spent 10 or 15 minutes on it.
My 1999 belt routing is different
The belt routing on my 1999 F-150, gasoline 4.2 liter engine, automatic transmission, with power steering and air conditioning is not the same as shown in these postings. My belt routing is at
http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_i...ng_diagram.htm
and is the diagram numbered G97A28902, located more than halfway down the site.
My tensioner is moved by twisting the 15 mm hexagonal bolt head on the tensioner pulley. Pushing the handle of the breaker bar attached to the 15 mm socket toward the passenger side takes the tension off the belt. (The handle of the bar is above the top of the radiator.)
http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_i...ng_diagram.htm
and is the diagram numbered G97A28902, located more than halfway down the site.
My tensioner is moved by twisting the 15 mm hexagonal bolt head on the tensioner pulley. Pushing the handle of the breaker bar attached to the 15 mm socket toward the passenger side takes the tension off the belt. (The handle of the bar is above the top of the radiator.)
The belt routing on my 1999 F-150, gasoline 4.2 liter engine, automatic transmission, with power steering and air conditioning is not the same as shown in these postings. My belt routing is at
http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_i...ng_diagram.htm
and is the diagram numbered G97A28902, located more than halfway down the site.
My tensioner is moved by twisting the 15 mm hexagonal bolt head on the tensioner pulley. Pushing the handle of the breaker bar attached to the 15 mm socket toward the passenger side takes the tension off the belt. (The handle of the bar is above the top of the radiator.)
http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_i...ng_diagram.htm
and is the diagram numbered G97A28902, located more than halfway down the site.
My tensioner is moved by twisting the 15 mm hexagonal bolt head on the tensioner pulley. Pushing the handle of the breaker bar attached to the 15 mm socket toward the passenger side takes the tension off the belt. (The handle of the bar is above the top of the radiator.)
You have an Essex engine - of course routing is different. Great engine, but you may want to add that little bit of info so that you don't confuse others. Nevermind, I got it ( :
So the routing previously posted is good for the Modular V8's.
The 4.2 Essex was added. I like how those just pop off the front of the engine, -wish my V8 did that -
Last edited by jbrew; Oct 3, 2009 at 10:56 AM.
book time v real time
I wish I had more time, space, and the right tool set up (my tools are more carpentry than mechanical) to do this and an alternator myself. That said, just had alternator, tensioner, and belt replaced at local shop - what is the approx real time for the swap (and am I right that replacing the alternator necessitates at least removing & re installing the belt?)
they also did the brakes (new front & rear pads and machine rotors) - what sort of time for this?
total at the shop was about 760 labour (Can) total for all of the above.
just so you all know - I know I coulda done all, or most of myself, wish I coulda - but kinda explained myself above already.
they also did the brakes (new front & rear pads and machine rotors) - what sort of time for this?
total at the shop was about 760 labour (Can) total for all of the above.
just so you all know - I know I coulda done all, or most of myself, wish I coulda - but kinda explained myself above already.
4.2 not a modular? - I thought I read on wikipedia that it is (at least in 2000)? - don't get me wrong, I trust what I read here more than on wiki.
just curious, as my handle suggests, its my dads truck, that he recently gave me after years of borrowing it repeatedly. I consider me lucky (despite having to catch up on some deferred maint.) - always loved fords (first car 86 mustang GT), and learned, in part, to drive on his new 88 f150. . . soooo long story short just trying to figure out the gift that was given - whats the deal with this 4.2?
just curious, as my handle suggests, its my dads truck, that he recently gave me after years of borrowing it repeatedly. I consider me lucky (despite having to catch up on some deferred maint.) - always loved fords (first car 86 mustang GT), and learned, in part, to drive on his new 88 f150. . . soooo long story short just trying to figure out the gift that was given - whats the deal with this 4.2?
Modular refers to the Triton family - 4.6 and 5.4 V8 and 6.8 V10. They are all OHC engines built on common tooling. The 4.2 V6 is an Essex, cam in block with pushrods, built on its own tooling. It was derived from the 3.8 Essex V6 that Ford introduced around 1980 or so for the downsized cars.
4.2 not a modular? - I thought I read on wikipedia that it is (at least in 2000)? - don't get me wrong, I trust what I read here more than on wiki.
just curious, as my handle suggests, its my dads truck, that he recently gave me after years of borrowing it repeatedly. I consider me lucky (despite having to catch up on some deferred maint.) - always loved fords (first car 86 mustang GT), and learned, in part, to drive on his new 88 f150. . . soooo long story short just trying to figure out the gift that was given - whats the deal with this 4.2?
just curious, as my handle suggests, its my dads truck, that he recently gave me after years of borrowing it repeatedly. I consider me lucky (despite having to catch up on some deferred maint.) - always loved fords (first car 86 mustang GT), and learned, in part, to drive on his new 88 f150. . . soooo long story short just trying to figure out the gift that was given - whats the deal with this 4.2?
Last edited by jbrew; Oct 3, 2009 at 03:00 AM.
I think I am going to pick up a gatorback belt today and keep it in the toolbox until maybe 100k miles (87k now) then change it. I JUST bought the truck so I have no clue if its ever been changed, but if I do it at 100k then i know when it was done and will probably do it every 50k after that.
I think I am going to pick up a gatorback belt today and keep it in the toolbox until maybe 100k miles (87k now) then change it. I JUST bought the truck so I have no clue if its ever been changed, but if I do it at 100k then i know when it was done and will probably do it every 50k after that.
http://www.gates.com/file_display_co...3%2D0796%2Epdf
Don't forget the tensionor, should replace those at the same time. Here's just one PDF about that, -
http://www.gates.com/file_display_co...3%2D0796%2Epdf
http://www.gates.com/file_display_co...3%2D0796%2Epdf







