Help on changing the brakes

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Old 11-08-2005, 05:23 PM
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Question Help on changing the brakes

Hello, I know this has probably been drove into the ground many times. I am needing to change the rear pads on my 2003 F-150 Supercrew 4x4, and I was wondering what tools do I need, what do I do, and what pads should I get? Thinking about Ceramic, but not real sure if that's where I need to go. My dad has offered to help me as long as I have all the parts and tools needed and that I have some instructions on this particular truck. We have both changed brakes out on different vehicles, and we try to do most of our work on our vehicles, but I need some info on this truck before I tear into something I can't fix. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Glad I found this site!!

Austin
 
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Old 11-08-2005, 05:53 PM
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Old 11-08-2005, 06:20 PM
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Matt,
Not a bad link, and the instructions are well written, but I disagree with the author on a few points. The cryogenic stuff is quite the gimmick and has never been proven to actually work (not to my satisfaction, anyway). Nor am I convinced of the benefits of slotted/ drilled rotors. Most of the 'evidence' is of a theoretical nature and most comparison studies show no benefit to the extra cost of slotted/ drilled rotors.

He also ignores the fact that brake fluid absorbs moisture and can go bad even in a so-called 'closed' system. If I can't see through the fluid in my master cylinder when doing my brakes, I'll flush the system until I have clean fluid at each wheel. I've had too many brake problems from old fluid over the last 25 years. I've also 'fixed' some brake problems simply by bleeding/ flushing the fluid. Fluid is dirt cheap and a good preventative measure against corroded calipers and sticky pistons.

But the link was helpful in showing/ describing the rear disc brake systems on these trucks. I've never had rear discs before and with the help of this article I'm confident that I can handle replacing my rear brakes without any problems. I wish it showed a picture of the rear hub/ parking brake without the brake disc installed.

Thanks.
 
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Old 11-08-2005, 08:51 PM
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I tend to disagree about the crossdrilled/slotted rotors. They are quite an improvement over the stock systems. Think about it like this. Mercedes and Porsche have been using crossdrilled for many many years and mercedes is known for having some of the best brakes in the world. I have found about a 10% reduction in braking distance and I have no brake fade whatsoever with crossdrilled/slotted and EBC greenstuff pads. I find them to be well worth the money. Especially if you buy the rotors like I did from R1concepts off ebay. Four rotors shipped to me zinc plated for $200.
 
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Old 11-11-2005, 12:00 AM
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Thanks very much everyone. I bought some ceramic pads today, and I'm gonna put them on Saturday.
 
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Old 11-11-2005, 03:50 PM
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The only problem I see with the link showing the procedure is that you don't need to use the bleeder valve. It just makes a mess and then you have to bleed everything.
I've done tons of brakes and the easiest way is to uncap the Master Cylinder. Then when you compress the caliper the fluid gets pushed back up thus eliminating the need to bleed later....
 
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Old 11-11-2005, 05:28 PM
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Everyone is critical but noone is writing their own... LOL. Yes I've done it without bleeding too. It works ok but for the life of calipers its recommended to bleed them so your not putting too much force against the pistons. Also is allows you to compress both at the same time. As far as bleeding them completely, my dad had a 92 f-150 and he did the brakes 5 or 6 times and never fully bled the system and never had a problem, so I don't believe its necessarily essential. Would you benefit from doing it? Possibly, but its also a big mess if you dont need to, so either way.
I wrote the article based on how I do a brake job. Maybe not how a professional will do the brake jobs.
 

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Old 11-12-2005, 05:19 PM
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I did the job today in about an hour with no problems at all. I bled the brakes free of air, and they work terrific. Can't wait to put ceramics on the front now. Thanks for the article, it made it a breeze.
 
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Old 05-29-2010, 02:23 AM
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Originally Posted by RockyJSquirrel
Matt,
Not a bad link, and the instructions are well written, but I disagree with the author on a few points. The cryogenic stuff is quite the gimmick and has never been proven to actually work (not to my satisfaction, anyway). Nor am I convinced of the benefits of slotted/ drilled rotors. Most of the 'evidence' is of a theoretical nature and most comparison studies show no benefit to the extra cost of slotted/ drilled rotors.

He also ignores the fact that brake fluid absorbs moisture and can go bad even in a so-called 'closed' system. If I can't see through the fluid in my master cylinder when doing my brakes, I'll flush the system until I have clean fluid at each wheel. I've had too many brake problems from old fluid over the last 25 years. I've also 'fixed' some brake problems simply by bleeding/ flushing the fluid. Fluid is dirt cheap and a good preventative measure against corroded calipers and sticky pistons.

But the link was helpful in showing/ describing the rear disc brake systems on these trucks. I've never had rear discs before and with the help of this article I'm confident that I can handle replacing my rear brakes without any problems. I wish it showed a picture of the rear hub/ parking brake without the brake disc installed.

Thanks.
The front brake pads have little metal peaces that will rub against the brake rotors when the pads wear down. I would have new front rotors and pads installed and new rear drums and pads installed.
 

Last edited by rockercar; 05-29-2010 at 05:39 AM.



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