Can anyone tell me what steps are needed to replace the passenger side valve cover gasket? I got the drivers side done without too much trouble, but it looks like the intake manifold/plenum needs to be removed to gain access to the passenger side valve cover.

If the manifold has to come out, how do you get to the mounting bolts adjacent to the valve cover? The mounting bolts facing the center of the engine are easy to see and get to, but the manifold curves to the other side up over the valve cover, hiding the bolts.

I would appreciate any helpful hints. I volunteered to do this as a favor and its turning into quite a headache.

 

The bracket holding the connectors on the firewall are in the way. Disconnect the battery and then remove the fuse block wires to the starter relay on the firewall. Unplug the connectors on the bracket that is on the firewall and remove the connectors. Then remove the bracket. This will give you room to remove the valve cover.

JMC

 

There's no such thing as an '88 4.6L. Is it a 5.0L or 5.8L? Either one requires the plenum to be removed for access to the R valve cover.

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If it is a 98, the v/c should come off just unbolt it. there are one or two on the firewall side of the v/c.And it would help if you take loose the heater hose from the manifold pipe.

 

Steve83, you are right about the engine size. My neighbor found his owners manual and it is a fuel injected 5.0L.
Thanks for the component diagram. I still have to figure out the best way to get to the mounting bolts that are under the arched portion of the manifold.
I appologise for throwing everyone off track with the 4.6.

 

You'll need a socket-mounted T40 bit to get the bolt in the center of the plenum, and you might also need to grind away a little of the aluminum in there to get it to fit. If you can find an extended bit, use that.




Also, the stud at the top of the short support tube running from the R exhaust manifold to the R center of the plenum with a ground strap almost always seizes. It takes a SUPER-slim 13mm (or is it 11mm?) open-end wrench to hold the stud while you break the first nut loose to remove the strap. It's the one at the L center of this pic.



Buy some 1/8" vacuum hose (a foot or 2 should be plenty) to patch the hard plastic vacuum lines that you WILL break. You'll also want to take this opportunity to replace the PCV valve while it's easy to get to, and consider replacing the crossover tube & check valves on the 2ndry air system. They commonly rust out, causing dangerous & noisy exhaust leaks.

 

Thank you very much for your help. Now I feel like I can finish this job.