The 03's had an electric servo to control the imrc, I think it's below 2000 that had the vacuum system like this one.

That module may be what I'm looking for, although I doesn't look like a module and when I search that on google only the servo and the actuators come up.

Edit: I got the piece I'm talking about off, the part number is F65E-9H465-CA. Does anyone know how to test it? When I blow/suck the top vacuum port there is nothing there and it comes out the port on the top. I cant get any air through the bottom port in either direction. This is with no power to it though.

 

You do have the vac system, right?
What year is your truck, and what are the codes.
I can search the Ford book better if you give me the info.

If I'm not helping, just say so and I'll go away. Haha

Here is what I think you are looking for, start at line #54 (wiggle test). The 2 vac ports are for IMRC 1&2 (right and left) from what I'm reading there should be 3rd port for supply vac, IDK.


53) Check IMRC PID Reading For vacuum operated systems, start engine and allow to idle for 20
seconds. With ignition on, use scan tester to access IMRCM PID and IMRC2M PID. Proceed as follows:
Disconnect left IMRC actuator connector and note PID voltage.
Disconnect right IMRC actuator connector and note PID voltage.
Reconnect right IMRC actuator connector and note PID voltage.
Reconnect left IMRC actuator connector and note PID voltage.
If PID values increase is 1.0 volt or more, isolate and replace defective IMRC actuator. Go to step 33). If
PID values do not increase more than 1.0 volt, go to step 55).

54) Wiggle Test For vacuum operated systems, start engine and allow to idle for 20 seconds. After about
30 seconds, vacuum will bleed off and PID values will change. Restart engine if necessary. With ignition
on, use scan tester to access IMRCM PID and IMRC2M PID. Turn ignition ON. Wiggle IMRC wiring
harness between actuator and PCM. Observe PID for signs of fault. A fault will be indicated by a sudden
drop in PID voltage. Wiggle wiring harness between IMRC connector and PCM connector. If fault is
indicated, isolate and repair as necessary. Go to step 33). If no faults are indicated, fault cannot be
duplicated at this time. Go to CIRCUIT TEST Z .
55) Check IMRC Vacuum Supply Turn ignition off. Disconnect IMRC actuator vacuum hose. Ensure
hose is not damaged or restricted. Connect vacuum hose to vacuum gauge. Start engine and allow to idle.
If vacuum reading is 10 in. Hg or more, go to next step. If vacuum reading is less than 10 in. Hg, repair
vacuum circuit and go to step 33).
56) Turn ignition off. Disconnect left IMRC actuator vacuum hose. Ensure hose is not damaged or
restricted. Connect vacuum hose to vacuum gauge. Start engine. Raise engine speed to 3500 RPM. If
vacuum reading is less than 10 in. Hg, go to next step. If vacuum reading is 10 in. Hg or more, go to step
60).

 

As a follow up, I eventually traced the problem to a faulty passengers side vacuum valve. Guess you can't trust new parts.

 

I Had SIMALER problems
my 2002 f150 4.2 ltr. Rod fell off and for some reason it was sucking oil into the frount driver side cylinder and killing the plug everyother day also used 1 gal. Oil a week when I took too off of intake I found rid lay ing down from actuators on the same side with problem. It does not smoke as bad now and I had to change out my alternator the same day but now it I white smoke and not black. There was oil on inside of top bad and I cleaned I out. By when looking down in the problem port I. Frount I looked like send in port. Can you tell me what maybe was going on with that?

 

Could be any number of things, including bad piston rings, valve seals or head gasket. How's your PCV hoses? Rubber elbow under throttle body get's a hole in it very often (I've put 2 in over the years), also a 3/8" hose from the back passenger side of the manifold to a Y on the PCV fails. Just replaced mine, and until recently didn't know it was there. It was SHOT. Those both can cause oil in the manifold by leaking air and messing up the PCV system. If you look back there you'll see 3 hoses. The outside ones are coolant, the middle one is air. That's the one that goes in a small loop down to a Y next to the PCV valve.

BTW several years after my previous post several other IMRC bushings fell out, dropping the rods from the actuator arms, and I was able to replace them all without removing the manifold. Laid thin plywood on the engine, climbed on and with a flashlight fixed in place used coat hangers with a hook on end, and some 22 gauge flexible wire (braided and insulated) to do it.

To get the new bushing onto the actuator arms thread the wire through the square opening and have both ends of the wire up. In fact secure the end coming out the back of the arm, just by wrapping it around something. Put the bushing on the other (front) end of the wire (if that's the way the arm will enter it) and let it slide down to the front side of the actuator arm opening. Then use fingers, handle of a wood spoon or whatever works to push the bushing in. You have to wiggle it so the square sides line up with the hole, and it's square with the arm, then carefully push it in. Be gentle, or you can wreck the bushing

Then using the coat hanger hooks, work like a "keyhole" surgeon to patiently manipulate the rod to line up with the bushing, then push it in. Hard to explain exactly, just have to do it. Once I got the rod in front of the hole I held it there with one hand (coat hanger hook), then used the other hand to push it in with a wooden spoon handle. One of them I could actually get my finger on to push it in. But keep in mind, some of the bushings push in from the front, some from the back. Just depends on which way the arm pushes in. Both push in from the same side.

BTW, DO get the Ford factory bushings, even though they cost more than the Dorman bushing. I put 2 of the Dormans in only to find out they didn't lock the rods in place, so I had to repeat the procedure with Ford bushings. When you compare them, the opening is a bit smaller on the Ford bushing, and it's better plastic. Also get a few extra because you may damage or lose some in the process.

One more tip on the PCV... check your grommets. I just replaced both of mine and the old ones were very sloppy. Dorman 42049 are exact copies of the stock bushings, and both my PCV and breather fittings are very snug now.

Good luck