GCWR: Gross Combined Weight Rating - the maximum allowed weight of the truck, load, and trailer.

GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating - the maximum allowed weight on the truck - the truck itself, its load, and the trailer tongue weight on the hitch. GVWR also applies to the trailer. in your case 8600.

GAWR: Gross Axle Weight Rating - the maximum allowed weight on each axle. Expressed separately for front and rear.

The GVWR and both GAWR's can be found on the door jamb sticker.

To determine all these parameters, load up the truck like you would to take a trip, including people and all stuff, fill the gas tank. Hook up the trailer and load it up too, including tanks. Go to a truck stop that has a CAT scale and run the rig over it. Pick up the slip and drop the trailer. Reweigh and pick up the slip.

Now it's time to do some higher math. Break out your calculator and scratch paper. The slips will break the weights down by axle. I'm going to use the following abbreviations:

FA = truck front axle
RA = truck rear axle
TA = trailer axle(s)
ON = trailer hooked up
OFF = trailer removed

FA (ON) + RA (ON) + TA (ON) should not exceed the GCWR.
FA (ON) + RA (ON) should not exceed the truck GVWR.
FA (ON) (and off) should not exceed the front GAWR.
RA (ON) (and off) should not exceed the rear GAWR.

Other math:

FA (ON) + RA (ON) - FA (OFF) - RA (OFF) = tongue weight, should be between 8 and 15% of the trailer weight (see below), ideal is 12% and can be adjusted by reloading the trailer. Should NEVER be more than 1000 or you will be exceeding the rating of most class 3 hitches with weight distribution bars.
FA (ON) + RA (ON) + TA (ON) - FA (OFF) - RA (OFF) = trailer weight, should not exceed the trailer GVWR or the max tow rating of the truck.

I'm betting that any trailer over about 6500 pounds will exceed one or more of the ratings. Just how much you want to overload is your decision, but it's invaluable to at least know where you stand. There are also tire ratings to be concerned with, the max load and pressure will be stamped on the sidewall. For hauling anything over about 6k, if you have P-metric tires, I'd replace them with LT-rated.

 

dsalazar,

Think of it this way... Whatever 'tow rating' figure you find for your exact model truck is going to be taken from the 'curb weight' of a totally base model truck, AKA, Work Truck..

You know the kind of truc... It's white with vinyl seats, no carpet, no power options, no AC, etc..... Then, it usually only accounts for a single passenger, the driver. And then they usually only rate that driver as being #150! I don't know about you, but the last time I weighed #150, I didn't even have my drivers license yet! ha, ha!

So, you take your truck as it sits... It's probably at least an XLT, so all of those options add additional weight, so it's going to lower YOUR actual 'tow rating'... You are probably going to be taking an extra passenger or two... You are probably going to put some additional stuff in the bed or the back seat... All of this adds to your trucks GVW (Gross Vehicle Weight) and lowers the amount of payload you have before you reach your trucks GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) You will find this on the door jamb sticker and it's probably only #7200.

Now, whatever your truck weighs as it's sitting right now subtracted from your trucks GVWR is how much payload you have left to put stuff in the bed AND the tongue weight of your nice new trailer!

Lets say your truck weighs #6000 as it sits right now. (mine weighs around #5500 and the older model). This leaves you with #1200 of payload..... Lets say your trailers tongue weight is #800. Now you are left with #400 of payload.... Add in the spouse, kids and more stuff and you'll probably be bumping real close to your trucks GVWR alone...

As I said in my first post... I'm over my trucks GVWR by several hundred pounds when I hitch up a #5000 TT, yet by the book, I have a 'tow rating' of #7700.... Well, due to all the additional stuff my truck has (it's an XLT) and my fat *** and all my stuff, when it rolls over a scale, that's what the numbers work out to be! Can't do anything about it either.... That's the way it is and that's why I don't have a #7700 TT...

Now, for you, it's not up to us to decide what you do or don't do.... You asked your questions and we answered them stating that you will more then likely be over weight on one or more of your other trucks weight limits while you are simply focusing on that magical 'tow rating' figure....

For a 2 hour trip, with the WD bars and brake controller and as long as you don't expect to break any land speed records and accept the fact that you are exceeding some other weights, your truck will haul that trailer.... How comfortable of a tow it is, or how much wear it causes is what YOU have to decide if it's worth it...

In my case, I'm totally comfortable with the fact that my truck is over it's GVWR when I'm hitched up and ready to camp for a long weekend... I've been this way for over 7 years and usually go on at least 5 trips each Summer... My truck has over 200,000 miles on it too, and still don't worry a bit about taking it on long trips, which usually cover anywhere from 1 hour to over 4 hours one way.... It's all in how you know your truck and know how to drive when it's loaded down...

That's all I can say over the matter.... Good luck with whatever you decide to do!

Mitch

 

Great post gentlemen now have a question myself on a new 2016 F150 super crew we are looking at has the V8 super crew cab with 6 1/2 ft bed and max tow installed at factory with all bells and whistles the guy is saying max tow is around 11,000 what are your thoughts with this truck and say a 23ft to 30ft Toy hauler loaded with a 2014 Ultra limited harley and a trip usually from ohio say to florida.
here is what its saying on the dealer site that is installed for towing
AXLE RATIO
XL6ELECTRONIC LOCKING W/3.73 AXLE RATIO $570.00
PRIMARY PAINT
H5CARIBOU METALLIC $0.00
SEAT TYPE
MCMEDIUM LIGHT CAMEL, CLOTH 40/20/40 FRONT SEAT $0.00
4-way adjustable driver/passenger headrests

ADDITIONAL EQUIPMENT
53ATRAILER TOW PACKAGE $895.00
Towing capability up to 11
100 lbs
Auxiliary Transmission Oil Cooler
Class IV Trailer Hitch Receiver
towing capability up to 5
000 lbs
smart trailer tow connector and 4-pin/7-pin wiring harness
Pro Trailer Backup Assist
4.2" LCD productivity screen in instrument cluster
Tailgate LED
Upgraded Front Stabilizer Bar
67TINTEGRATED TRAILER BRAKE CONTROLLER $275.00
655EXTENDED RANGE 36 GALLON FUEL TANK $395.0

 

i am assuming off the attached spec list that for my truck if purchased this way it would be between 10,500 and 10,800.
http://www.ford.com/resources/ford/g...0_r1_Jan12.pdf

 

I think this would be a bit much to pull but i could be wrong i do like it though http://www.rvt.com/dealerframe/subur...php?id=6588348

I was thinking this would probably be more practical one of these two
http://www.rvt.com/dealerframe/subur...php?id=6456155

also found some interesting information in this book about all 2015 tow vehicles and concepts

http://www.berrylandcampers.com/medi...wGuide2015.pdf

 

info

http://www.forestriverinc.com/produc...1&ShowParent=1

 

That shouldn't be a problem unless you load up the truck itself with a bunch of people and cargo. You are going to run out of payload capacity before you reach the max tow rating. The max tow rating on that truck is about 10500#. The max GVWR on the trailer is 7715#. I would say to order it with the HD Payload package, but you won't get it till this fall if you do.

 

Thanks glc, the one i listed was just delivered at a dealer not far from me with everything i listed above and i have talked with the sales man and i like the looks and tow capacity of the truck it would allow for alot of tow options down the road when i find the right toy hauler.

 

I still would NOT try to tow anything close to the max tow rating - again, for payload and truck GVWR reasons. I wouldn't tow over 8k without Max Tow *and* HD Payload. Remember that the tongue weight counts as payload, as does everything in the truck and bed - both cargo and people.

 

i agree the 26rr is right at 30ft and has a from the factory weight of 4950lbs so by time its loaded with a harley and items need for long trip etc id guess between the trailer load and truck we would be somewhere around 7k total between truck and trailer added weight. trailer at 4950 plus bike and supplies that would add another 1,200 into the trailer and then minimal in the bed of the truck and wife and i along with two lap dogs we should be good thanks for the input.

 

Load everything you can in the trailer, and make sure it's distributed properly. You will need a weight distribution hitch.

 

But, be careful there too. Your trailer has a GAWR, and it may be easier than you imagine to exceed it. My travel trailer, for instance has an axle that is rated for less than the max gross weight of the trailer! This is because some of that weight is supported by the tongue and as long as I don't exceed the trailer gross weight, I shouldn't exceed the axle limit. (I know, it's a poor design, but it is what it is, and I only found out about it after buying the trailer.)

Your trailer may be designed with a better margin of safety, but you should check on it.

- Jack

 

I towed my 7000lbs (full) with my 07 without any problem.
Towed it with my dad '13 EB and it was super easy.

A friend tow a 10 000lbs(full) toyhauler with his EB max tow and it does great. (it's a fifth wheel)

I wouldn't be worried at all with the 23' and not so much about the 30'

Just need to look at the gross weight of the trailer (not the empty one) cause it's 99% sure it will weight it once filled with all your stuff.