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  #1  
Old 01-21-2002, 07:23 PM
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Fred Glenn
Cool Magnacharger Intercooler Pump

For those of you with the Magnacharger and the boost actuator for the pump, I would recommend installing a switch so that you can manually run the pump for periods of time. This pump is like any other motor that is not run very much, in that it will tend to sieze up if not used enough. I am on my second pump and I noticed it was not starting up when I selected the manual switch. I just tapped it with a little hammer and it started running. I have been leaving it on more and it is starting up every time when it should now. I took my old pump apart and found the motor in almost new condition but some corosion formed where the shaft enters the water pump. I lubed that piece up and my old pump started running perfectly! So if your pump stops operating, don't go buy a new one, just lube that section of the pump and you should be good to go!
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  #2  
Old 01-21-2002, 08:01 PM
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I don't have the Magnacharger in.... YET.

The pump only kicks on when boost is called for?
When would you turn on the pump manually.
Will driving habits effect the likelyhood of the pump siezing?
Do you have any suggestions on where to cut in the switch?
Can you think of any way to get the pump to cycle more often without a manual switch?
I ask you, Flatsman, because I know that you have a good amoun of experiance with this blower.
I've read of people complaining that the pump would kick on and off in certian situations. Have you had this happen? Is it actually annoying?

Sorry, I have a million questions. Any insight you can pass on is appreciated.

Tom
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  #3  
Old 01-21-2002, 08:15 PM
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Fred Glenn
Cool

Well, most or all of us have our pumps boost activated. In normal driving, especially around town, the pump doesn't run very much. When we go to positive boost, the pump is just being powered, but is it running? I don't think you would want to go WOT with it not running but how do you know? If it is turned on manually, you can hear it running as soon as the ignition is turned on, so you know it is working. Mine was not working so I left it on for two days around town and now it is fine. I am just trying to give everyone a heads up on this. If your pump is not running, just take it off the truck and take the motor apart so that you can get to the shaft, lube that and you will be back up and running again!
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  #4  
Old 01-22-2002, 09:23 AM
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Not a bad idea!

I think if you lube the shaft, you might also prevent some of the buildup of the corrosion you found.

These pumps will not flow as much coolant when this starts to happen. The motor will run at a lower RPM also. I suggest using a jumper across the Hobbs switch KOEO (Key on engine off) and the cap off the reservoir to see how much coolant flows when the pump is working correctly. You should see a steady flow with a pretty high volume. It should flow almost enough to spill over when activated, and the reservoir should be full when off.

I have tested the Hobbs switch. It cycles ON when the intake sees a positive pressure (0" vacuum to MAX boost). You will not need to be at WOT to activate the switch. The LED and the override helps identify the conditions you are under and will test the circuit, but will NOT tell you if your pump has failed. It also works well in the pits like you mentioned, Flatsman. This keeps the top-end cool, and the bottom-end hot!
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  #5  
Old 02-18-2002, 08:12 AM
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Have you guys ever looked into a different pump brand or set-up?
I am on my third pump and this one is now leaking. The first two quit, the third went on the hobbs switch.
It's leaking by the shaft were the corrosion has built up as Flats Man pointed out. The seal appears to be in new condition but it's too loose. It's allowing the coolant to leak by.
Any suggestions would be welcomed.
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  #6  
Old 02-18-2002, 09:30 AM
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Question Pump issues

Flats Man,

Is the pump problem a currently known issue with magnason, or does it relate to older SC kits ?? Now, if you do have a problem, shouln't magnacharger replace it free of charge?

BTW how did the exhaust inserts workout for you, did it resolve your loss of torque problem??
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  #7  
Old 02-18-2002, 11:18 AM
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It's a known issue.
In my case, they have replaced it twice. But that's not my idea of fixing the problem. It's getting annoying.
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  #8  
Old 02-18-2002, 12:55 PM
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Arrow Willy

Where is the pump located, and if I turn my key on, will I hear the pump startup
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MAGNACHARGER SC 7psi pulley
Superchips Flip Chip
JBA Ceramic Headers
DI/DO Magnaflow Exhaust
TransGo kit
Volant Cold Air Intake
Autometer Boost/Vac gauge
ARE LS II Tonneau Cover
Belltech 2'' rear shackle drop
:cool:
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  #9  
Old 02-18-2002, 05:35 PM
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What would be the best way to switch it? Would using the Hobbs switch with jumper wires to a switch be the way to go? I think the truck needs to be running to run the pump in this case. I think this would be the easiest way to go.
How about a direct feed so the pump could be turned on while waiting for the next run, with the truck off? I would guess this is how you guys would do it. Forgive me for my ignorance, would this require a seperate relay? I think this is the way to go as far as a switch but being that I won't be at the strip all that often, using the Hobbs switch seems a whole lot easier.
Any suggestion on what would be the best way to switch it?

Tom
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  #10  
Old 02-18-2002, 06:37 PM
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No additional relay is required. Just add a switch in paralled over the contacts of the Hobbs switch. You can mount it anywhere. I also suggest an LED to be used as an indicator. With the Key On Engine Off, you will hear the pump running and possibly feel the vibration.

It is a good idea to use the existing ignition feed because you will need airflow across the intercooler heat exchanger for it to be effective. Another thing to consider is if you turn the engine off in the pits after a run, you will get heat soak inside the engine. Heat will also transfer into the intake. Try to keep the engine running (engine coolant flow) and the intercooler coolant pump on. This will keep the bottom-end hot and the top-end cool, and you will have a steady engine temperature.
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  #11  
Old 02-19-2002, 09:29 AM
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Wittom-

I had the same ideas you have. I do encourage experimenting with your setup, as this is where innovation begins.

What Magnacharger has stated time and again is that you will not need to be concerned about cycling the switch regularly. I know you are addressing the the pump issue, so I say do whatever it take to keep it alive. The Hobbs switch will allow the coolant pump to cycle on at 0" vacuum and stay on while your intake is under positive pressure.

As far as performance goes, at cruise, I would not be too concerned with running the intercooler. If you are getting ready to race, override the pump. If you are in the pits, override the pump. Just make sure you have air flow.

The ultimate setup would be an electric cooling fan, an electric water pump, and the intercooler override. This way, you can sit in the pits with the exgine off, circulate engine coolant and intercooler coolant.

You would be OK as long as you keep the engine at operating temperature. This is why I kept the engine running in the pits.
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  #12  
Old 02-21-2002, 02:35 PM
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I see that Allen Engine has released a mechanical pump upgrade for the Mustang kit. Check out http://www.allenengine.com/new-pump.html

I wonder if this would work on the truck models? The basic kit is the same.

Ian
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  #13  
Old 02-21-2002, 06:29 PM
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Wow. That a pretty tight engine compartmant on the Mustang, eh?
Any of the experianced people here know if this is something that would work? Would we have to have electric fans? Do we even have the same water pump?
If the problem that we have now is caused by the pump not running enough than we need to get it to run more, right? If the problem is a POS pump then we need a whole new set up, right?
Well I geuss I should get the damn supercharger in before I start to worry about this stuff. I'll get back to this next week.

Tom
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Old 02-21-2002, 06:29 PM


 
 
 
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