'89 Steering Column/Ignition/clutch issues
#1
10-26-2008, 07:52 PM
'89 Steering Column/Ignition/clutch issues
I was working on my buddy's '89 beater all weekend, and I've got some questions about the ignition switch assembly on the column.
First, the truck is an '89 300 straight-6, manual trans, 4wd with a 4" Rough Country lift on it. I had the steering column apart at least 30 times today, and can't figure out how (if it's possible?) for the ignition switch to turn back to the accessory position? The way the steering wheel lock assembly is sitting in there right now, the piece that moves to actuate the linkage for the column switch can't physically come back any farther than it does to trigger the accessory position... Maybe the manual trans vehicles don't have that ability?
Next, the trans is having a couple issues. The main one is that it's leaking like a sieve. My service manuals don't go back past the mid-90s.... does anyone have an exploded diagram of the trans for that range of years? It's the 5-speed 4wd (manual shift) trans... M5OD-R1 maybe? The leak appears to be raining down from the top passenger side of the trans around the top, but it's no place I can really see it... I pulled the boot back from around the shifter, and the top plate is dusty and oily, but it's not visible there... maybe the seal around the top of it?? No clue as I've never worked on that generation...
Which brings me to the next issue with the trans... It's *supposed* to be a 5-speed, but 5th is having *issues*... I couldn't find it in 45 minutes of driving... When I looked at the top of the trans, there's a collar of some sort flopping around the shaft just above the "ball". It may be preventing the shifter from moving over all the way, but there has to be more to it... I think the problem might become more clear with an exploded diagram.
Finally, the last issue is the clutch/pedal assembly. The clutch seems to function properly on the engine end, but you have to jam the pedal into the floor to get it to release. Furthermore, when you engage the clutch (i.e. remove your foot from the pedal) it doesn't return all the way (it doesn't come back past the brake pedal). It engages fully and doesn't slip. I popped the master cylinder off the linkage, and there doesn't appear to be any adjustment for it... shouldn't there be some adjustment there somewhere?
The other related issue is that the cast bracket that the brake and clutch pedals mounts to is cracked. Pushing the clutch actually flexes the dash. It's not helping the clutch travel issue, but it's not the sole cause of it either... Somebody recently had a pair of pliers on the nut that holds the clutch pedal in place... can it be re-clocked somehow? Anyone have an exploded diagram of that assembly too?
Thanks, gang!
-Joe
First, the truck is an '89 300 straight-6, manual trans, 4wd with a 4" Rough Country lift on it. I had the steering column apart at least 30 times today, and can't figure out how (if it's possible?) for the ignition switch to turn back to the accessory position? The way the steering wheel lock assembly is sitting in there right now, the piece that moves to actuate the linkage for the column switch can't physically come back any farther than it does to trigger the accessory position... Maybe the manual trans vehicles don't have that ability?
Next, the trans is having a couple issues. The main one is that it's leaking like a sieve. My service manuals don't go back past the mid-90s.... does anyone have an exploded diagram of the trans for that range of years? It's the 5-speed 4wd (manual shift) trans... M5OD-R1 maybe? The leak appears to be raining down from the top passenger side of the trans around the top, but it's no place I can really see it... I pulled the boot back from around the shifter, and the top plate is dusty and oily, but it's not visible there... maybe the seal around the top of it?? No clue as I've never worked on that generation...
Which brings me to the next issue with the trans... It's *supposed* to be a 5-speed, but 5th is having *issues*... I couldn't find it in 45 minutes of driving... When I looked at the top of the trans, there's a collar of some sort flopping around the shaft just above the "ball". It may be preventing the shifter from moving over all the way, but there has to be more to it... I think the problem might become more clear with an exploded diagram.
Finally, the last issue is the clutch/pedal assembly. The clutch seems to function properly on the engine end, but you have to jam the pedal into the floor to get it to release. Furthermore, when you engage the clutch (i.e. remove your foot from the pedal) it doesn't return all the way (it doesn't come back past the brake pedal). It engages fully and doesn't slip. I popped the master cylinder off the linkage, and there doesn't appear to be any adjustment for it... shouldn't there be some adjustment there somewhere?
The other related issue is that the cast bracket that the brake and clutch pedals mounts to is cracked. Pushing the clutch actually flexes the dash. It's not helping the clutch travel issue, but it's not the sole cause of it either... Somebody recently had a pair of pliers on the nut that holds the clutch pedal in place... can it be re-clocked somehow? Anyone have an exploded diagram of that assembly too?
Thanks, gang!
-Joe
#2
10-28-2008, 09:15 PM
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I've been through this myself so I feel your pain. I don't think it makes a difference being a 5 speed. http://www.lmctruck.com/ICATALOG/FD/full.aspx?page=122 (Hopefully this link works, never tried attaching one before) Part 13 is the actuator and you have to work it just right in the collar, part 11. I did this and then inserted the key cylinder and rotated it through all the different positions prior to hookin it back up to the lock lever, part 14. Yes it takes a couple of tries.I hope that helps ya.
#3
10-29-2008, 11:09 AM
I've been through this myself so I feel your pain. I don't think it makes a difference being a 5 speed. http://www.lmctruck.com/ICATALOG/FD/full.aspx?page=122 (Hopefully this link works, never tried attaching one before) Part 13 is the actuator and you have to work it just right in the collar, part 11. I did this and then inserted the key cylinder and rotated it through all the different positions prior to hookin it back up to the lock lever, part 14. Yes it takes a couple of tries.I hope that helps ya.
-Joe