Two problems:

1. Resistor pack

2. Either a split **** or a wornout control

Steve

 

I did find the resitor block rusted, so after 25.00 at the dealer the fan was up and running in all 4 speeds. That lasted for several days now I am back to just high speed. Is there a way to check the resistor and what would be the resitance values across the terminals. What else could cause this issue if the resistor is okay?
Thanks for the help this site has given me.......

 

Somebody has to know the answer to the above questions?????????

 

Atleast you got several days out of it, I only got 30 seconds! pissed me right the hell off. The only difference is i have the 2 lowest and the high fan speed.

 

After trying to bypass the resistor pack and fan switch but still not getting the low speeds to work on the blower I opted to stop in at an Auto repair shop in town. Told what I had done and he asked if there was a small resistor looking item across two of the contacts. Stated that there was he said that this is a fuse that blows if the blower motor pulls to many amps. The bottom line is the blower motor needs to be replaced along with another resistor pack to tune of $235.00 OUCH. Will try and replace myself but before doing that I think I am going to jump across the fuse and see if the blower motor will work at the lower speeds.

 

I jumped across the in line fuse and was able to get the blower to work in all of the fan speed ranges.
Found a site on the Internet that had the motor and resistor with shipping for a grand total of 91.00.
There are 4 screws that hold the fan in place, total time to remove the blower get the squirrel cage off of the old blower and reinstall the new blower and resistor pack, took about an hour to complete.

 

Ok now this all happened at once. My fan stopped running on the 3 lower speeds and only turns at high, which I understand to be the resistor block, got that pulled no problem.

The other problem is that even when turning at high speed the fan sounds like it is chewing on paper or leaves or something and I do not get full air flow, in fact no air flow on the floor. My guess is that something has nested in there or just general crap has built up over the years.

Any thoughts? I am trying to extract the entire motor and housing but have taken out about a dozen screws and while the motor hangs loosely out of the housing, there is not enough clearance to get it out until the housing comes out.

Anyone ever successfully gotten this motor out and how much was involved? Thanks.

2002 F150 4.6L Supercrew

 

nyrockingchairs,
I own a 2001 4.6L Supercrew. I pulled 4 screws and the blower fell out of the housing partway, had to twist with a little force to get it out of the housing. I don't know if the 2002's are the same. The hard part was getting the fan off. I ended up using a 5gal bucket by letting the motor casing support the motor on the rim of the bucket and the motor hanging down. Had to use a punch to drive the stem out of the fan.
Hope this helps.

 

just picked the part up from the dealership they charged me 2275 for the part including tax. But having my blower motor working properly was well worth the cost seemed like we either froze or we were extra crispy with that issue. If anyone has this issue I would deffinitly check theblower resistor first I could not believe the corosion on it I am guessing it is from water on your feet evaporating and such that causes it. took me 5 minutes to change it out if that and most of the time was finding a decent position to get at the part. easy way to find it is follow the pig tail to it as it is the only wire loom down there. Thanks for the info guys!

Len

 

Do you think the blower resistor would still be the problem if the #3 speed was the only one not working? I still have Low (1-2) and high (4)? Thanks

 

yeah it is probably the issue when some speeds work and others do not.

 

Thanks to everyone on this forum~!

Another $200 or more dollar job repaired for under $20.xx bucks!

Replaced the resistor pack in .under 10 minutes.


FYI, BRING THE OLD RESISTOR PACK TO THE STORE! THE PARTS SHOULD BE COMPAIRED TO THE OLD ONE! I HAD TO GET ONE FOR A MAZDA, THE ONE FOR A 97 F150 WAS THE WRONG ONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

the reason the resistor packs are going out is because of the blower motor, when you chanhe out the resistor pak you can get it to work, depending on how bad the blower motor is (bearings are usually the case) that will determin how long you will be able to run on that particuar speed before you kill the resistor, on the chevys the high setting on the resitor pack was straight thru full batt. again you also have a fuse to protect against massive current (when the blower is really bad then you blow the fuse), My suggestion if you had to change out the resistor pak change out the blower motor, because it will only get worse.

 

I have the same problem in a 06 FX4 two lowest settings don't work are the resistor blocks in the same location as the older models?

 

Got it working