The switch, which you can get at any dealer for under $20 is a re-designed model. I believe that it was re-designed for the 2004 model year and all previous years that use the same switch (to my knowledge it goes from 94-2006) are to use the new switch if they are to be replaced.
You must remove the lock mechanism in order to replace the switch. Once you have the door panel off, it looks like you can just reach in and change it, but that's not possible, so don't spend hours trying. You need to unsnap the retainer that connects the door-lock rod, the cable that leads to the interior handle, remove the electrical connector, and the the torx that hold the mechanism itself. It is somewhat difficult to get the mechanism out, you need to pull on the inside of the door while someone holds the outside, and pull it out. Once you have it out, remove the switch and the electric-lock actuator, and hit the whole assembly really good with break cleaner. When it is dry, lube the assembly well with lock lube (graphite based). Don't use grease or oil because it will/can make your locks hard to operate in extreme cold, and will "run" out in extreme heat. Lock lube won't freeze, run, or get gummy in extreme cold. Oil and grease will also attract dirt and debris where lock lube will not.
If you have a pre-2004, you probably also want to go ahead and replace the door-lock actuators if you haven't already. These to have been redesigned (far more extensively than the switch) and don't quit intermittently. If you have a pre-2004, and you have ever used your keyless entry to lock, unlock, lock, unlock (like you keep forgetting something or kids are playing with your locks), you might notice that your door-locks stop responding after the first or second cycle. That's why. And it can make for a nasty surprise when you find out someone robbed your truck overnight because you locked it with the remote and it didn't really lock. The new, redesigned actuators are available for ~$50.
If you ever have to replace one switch, or actuator, go ahead and do all of them. If you don't, odds are the other side will fail in a month or two anyway.
I recommend against using WD40 in your lock assembly. It will wash away the lube that was applied from the factory (which lasts about 10 years with normal use) and it's corrosion protection properties are horrible at best. And, probably more important, you can wash away the white lithium grease from your window tracks which will cause the rollers to wear out prematurely, or just cause them (and/or the linkage) to fail MUCH sooner than they would have otherwise.
I had a similar issue on my 1999 F-150. As soon as the Wisconsin weather turned cold, my interior and bed lights liked to turn themselves on and stay on all night.
While driving, my door ajar alarm would beep at me every 3 seconds. I never thought that I had that wide a range of colorful words!
I went to the dealer twice and all they did was spray the door hinges. I even went as far as changing out the jam switches (inside the door).
All of this still didn't work so one day I ripped apart both door panels and simply unplugged the jam switches. The best part is that I can still activate the interior lights / bed light by using the roll switch in the cab.
Here is one that I have not found in the forums. I am looking at a 97 F150 with the 3rd door. The dealer just replaced both of the front door switches, but the problem still exists. Door ajar light is on and the dome lights are also on. My question is this. Where is the switch in this rear door? Is it in the bottom of the door? There is a little plastic lever in the middle of the door that is triggered by the passenger front door, is this the switch for the rear door?
Any help would be great!
I have opened up the 3rd door on my 97 F150 and found that there is no switch in there at all! The only electrical wire in the door is for the speaker! So we have replaced both front door switches and the door ajar light, dome and cargo light still stay on. On another Forum site I read a post where the rear gate had a switch and this caused the the same symptoms.
Can somone test this for me? I mean if you open the back gate and start the truck do the door ajar, dome and cargo light stay on? I think this is odd because guys drive with the back gate open all the time, but I don't want to overlook a simple problem.
If both switches were replaced and were correctly replaced then either you have a short in the wiring or the switch is stuck. try hitting them with WD40 anyway.
To find out if its the drivers or passenger door, with both doors closed, turn off the ignition but leave the key in the ignition. if the dinger goes off its the drivers door if not, its the passenger door. leaving the headlights on will also do the same quick test.
Well, I got a can of CRC Electrical cleaner and a can of CRC White Lithium Grease. For only $9.68, I sprayed all the latches with the cleaner, and that fixed the door ajar light!
I sprayed them good with the grease and worked them a few times with great results! I am not sure why replacing the switches did not fix the problem, but now it is all good!
As for a switch in the rear gate, I don't see one. There are no electrical wires going into the gate. Of course, I srayed those latches clean and lubed them up real good also.
Thank you to everyone that has helped with this problem!
My door ajar light just started staying on today ('98 stepside 4wd, 4.6). Will be trying the "fix" this weekend.
These forums are great. I had been driving a VW Beetle the last 2 years when gas prices went through the roof. Then read about Kerry, Streisand, and the rest flying around in their private jets burning who knows how much fuel telling us we need to conserve. Decided the "H" with them; went out and bought the truck; much happier now.
Just a thought!! but how many of you who are having this problem, live a climate that is colder more than warmer. If so, this is your answer. These trucks hate cold weather. Ford in way forgot that they won't all be driven in the south and in dessert climates. My 04 does all types of stupid sh@t when it's cold. My door window button lights don't want to work. My heat extractor vent under my wipers pops up, and there is this weird electrical whine when you go over 50mph. All of this happens only in subfreezing temps. Volvo always includes a cold weather package with their cars, perhaps Ford should copy this idea, being they own Volvo now!!
Are the switches in the same location (part of the latch) instead of in the front of the door on a 1997 standard cab? Have had this problem for almost four years... I've had the fuse unplugged with no inside lights
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