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Old 11-30-2010, 06:55 PM
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Fix your power door lock actuator DIY

I did some searching and I have not seen this, so I thought I'd contribute to the community which I know will aide me in the future.

EDIT: My procedures are more work than required. Go to the link in post #4 by MGDfan

Are your power door locks "weak", or stop working when it's warm? This may be for you. The problem is a mystery piece inside the tiny electric motor that moves the door lock. I had this EXACT problem on my Lexus GS300 and its easily solved for free.
1. Remove the door panel and remove the entire latch and actuator assembly.
2. Drill out the two metal rivets and pry the the two plastic halves apart to reveal the motor and gears.
Click the image to open in full size.

3. Pop out the motor.
4. Remove the back plastic part of the motor by prying the little metal tabs on the side out of the way.

It prolly looks like this:
Click the image to open in full size.

5. Clean it up and remove the piece circled in red.
Click the image to open in full size.

6. Put something else in its place. I used part of a beer can tab.
7. Reassemble and use screws to secure the two halves. It doesn't need to be pretty.
Click the image to open in full size.

8. Plug it in to the harness and test so you don't waste time putting everything back together only to realize you used a Pepsi can instead of a beer can part. It's gotta be beer.
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Old 11-30-2010, 09:07 PM
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Are the pictures of a Ford or a Lexus actuator?

I'm not being "petty" here, but I'm just trying to gauge if this process applies to us 150 owners. If it does, you've got a "winner" and I'll copy it to the "How To" section.

I'm seeing a lot of carbon buildup that you cleaned off at the end of the motor. (Looks like around the armature brushes?) Couldn't the part you replaced have been cleaned in a similar manner? I know, a beer can tab is classier, but maybe I like bottled beer?

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Old 11-30-2010, 10:11 PM
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Those pics are from the Ford job I did this morning. I just knew what to do from my experience on the GS300.

I have no idea what that part does, but just to confirm it was the same thing I saw in the past, I tried just cleaning and reassembling and it made no difference. Planned obsolescence? Whatever it is, it seems that over time, it creates a lot of resistance and prevents the motor from providing enough power to actuate the lock. The beer tab fix worked for years in my Lexus, so I assume it's a good fix for the Ford too.
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Old 11-30-2010, 10:50 PM
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Hi.

Please bear in mind that the component you are 'spoofing' is designed to limit current to protect the motor. This resistive element tends to degrade over time & with long usage, eventually adding too much series resistance to the circuit - and a lazy or non-functional actuator results.

While this has been a common fix for years (here's just one of many such - http://www.fordf150.net/articles/idx...oor-Locks.html ), the most prudent method is actuator replacement.

Imho only - don't shoot Click the image to open in full size.


MGD
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Old 11-30-2010, 11:13 PM
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interesting, new one on me
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  #6  
Old 12-01-2010, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MGDfan View Post
Hi.

Please bear in mind that the component you are 'spoofing' is designed to limit current to protect the motor. This resistive element tends to degrade over time & with long usage, eventually adding too much series resistance to the circuit - and a lazy or non-functional actuator results.

While this has been a common fix for years (here's just one of many such - http://www.fordf150.net/articles/idx...oor-Locks.html ), the most prudent method is actuator replacement.

Imho only - don't shoot Click the image to open in full size.


MGD
Totally true, beer cans are rarely the recommended repair. However, a couple comments. Since that piece is designed to limit current to protect the motor, then there is no harm in removing it as the motor is useless with it installed anyway, so who cares if you happen to smoke the brushes?

Also, I still wouldn't replace the actuator since you can buy the motor for $10 or less on ebay. It's a MABUCHI motor and even if the shaft and gear are not the same, you can pop the back off and use the brushes and such w/o beer cans.

I still have 10 of these motors new, but chose to use the beer can since it works - oh and because I'm cheap.

Thanks for the clarification on that piece. Do you happen to know its technical name? Maybe you can buy that piece for a few pennies.

Here is the datasheet on those motors:

PDF
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Old 12-01-2010, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ishootstuff View Post
Totally true, beer cans are rarely the recommended repair. However, a couple comments. Since that piece is designed to limit current to protect the motor, then there is no harm in removing it as the motor is useless with it installed anyway, so who cares if you happen to smoke the brushes?

Also, I still wouldn't replace the actuator since you can buy the motor for $10 or less on ebay. It's a MABUCHI motor and even if the shaft and gear are not the same, you can pop the back off and use the brushes and such w/o beer cans.

I still have 10 of these motors new, but chose to use the beer can since it works - oh and because I'm cheap.

Thanks for the clarification on that piece. Do you happen to know its technical name? Maybe you can buy that piece for a few pennies.Here is the datasheet on those motors:

PDF

I agree in principal, if you are handy/inclined - but, most folks would probably be better served replacing the entire unit - there is a safety aspect to this that is hard to ignore.

As for a technical name - I'm still looking (I keep seeing it called 'Thingmabob' ). It's going to be a PTC thermistor or surrogate. Sorta like an inverse MOV.

MGD
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Old 12-01-2010, 10:41 AM


 
 
 
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